Changin Broad Heads What do you think?
10-26-2005, 12:46 PM
#1
Giant Nontypical
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Nekoosa Wi USA
Posts: 6,066
Changin Broad Heads What do you think?
recently was shooting only thunderheads on my arrows but have had a hard time getting passthroughs with them even at close ranges. Now that im out of TH Blades, im down to my Muzzy 100gr 4 blade. When I bought these heads I put them on my carbons which for some reason I could not the arrows to tune properly must have been a spine issue. Well I gave my brother the arrows and i kept the heads and figured id try them on my aluminums.Fly just like my thunderheads. In away, im kind of scared to shoot these at a deer. Im sure its just because of the bad luck I have had with the Thunderheads. I almost always get a great shot on a deer but have lost some while using Thunderheads. Im just afraid of wounding one and not finding it. Again. I guess the only way to get over this fear is to go ahead and shootone into a deer and hope for the best. I look at it this way 4 blades are better than 3. Plus im using a hole making arrow Easton 2315's. Should leave a hell of a blood trail and a hole. Heres what Im shooting, tell me what you think.
PSE Nova S428 Inch Draw 67#
WB
HHA Single PinSight
Easton 2315's 30 inch
Muzzy 4 Blade 100gr.
Doinker Stabilizer
Free Flight Glove Style Release
Ultra Noc
Peep Sight
Kisser Button
PSE Nova S428 Inch Draw 67#
WB
HHA Single PinSight
Easton 2315's 30 inch
Muzzy 4 Blade 100gr.
Doinker Stabilizer
Free Flight Glove Style Release
Ultra Noc
Peep Sight
Kisser Button
10-26-2005, 01:29 PM
#2
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Burleson TX USA
Posts: 6,455
RE: Changin Broad Heads What do you think?
In all honesty I dont know why you are not getting a complete pass through on deer using the Thunderheads unless your shot placement is off and you are hitting a major bone.
You have plenty of bow to blast through deer.
The size of the arrow dont really matter as far as leaving a blood trail cause the arrow is thinner than the broadhead.
Just make sure your broadheads are razor sharp.
You have plenty of bow to blast through deer.
The size of the arrow dont really matter as far as leaving a blood trail cause the arrow is thinner than the broadhead.
Just make sure your broadheads are razor sharp.
10-26-2005, 01:41 PM
#3
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Troy, Illinois
Posts: 226
RE: Changin Broad Heads What do you think?
Your bad luck aint because of the BH. I've been shooting Thuderheads for around 15 years and I'll never shoot another type. 95 percent are pass throughs on deer and about 70 percent for hogs.
10-26-2005, 07:11 PM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,695
RE: Changin Broad Heads What do you think?
You know it's not ironic that all the people here that have problems use a WB arrow rest.
A fishtailing arrow can atrribute to no pass throughs, and a fish tailing arrow can still get robinhoods. You can also have good form at the range and have perfect arrow flight only to lose it all while shooting at a deer, could be fishtailing from poor form or just that rest causing it.
I would start by getting a dropaway.
A fishtailing arrow can atrribute to no pass throughs, and a fish tailing arrow can still get robinhoods. You can also have good form at the range and have perfect arrow flight only to lose it all while shooting at a deer, could be fishtailing from poor form or just that rest causing it.
I would start by getting a dropaway.
10-26-2005, 07:53 PM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Elizabeth Colo. USA
Posts: 4,413
RE: Changin Broad Heads What do you think?
What a surprise, Z shows up with the usual WB is the problem answer! Haven't ya beat that horse enough yet. IT'S DEAD ALREADY, BURY IT[:@]
I wonder if, by chance, you practice with the T-heads before hunting with them, and if so, do you re-sharpen them. Even if you only shoot them into a foam target a "few" times, they will still need the blades changed or sharpened to get full penetration. You're set up is plenty good to use T-heads and the dreaded no "problem"WB!
I wonder if, by chance, you practice with the T-heads before hunting with them, and if so, do you re-sharpen them. Even if you only shoot them into a foam target a "few" times, they will still need the blades changed or sharpened to get full penetration. You're set up is plenty good to use T-heads and the dreaded no "problem"WB!
10-26-2005, 08:31 PM
#6
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: KY USA
Posts: 779
RE: Changin Broad Heads What do you think?
I would say bow tuning is the problem. A poor spine selection, out of tuned bow, or broadheads that are not aligned good can cause the problem you mentioned. The TH is a great broadhead & I would tend to think it is something else other than the broadhead.
10-27-2005, 05:49 AM
#8
Giant Nontypical
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Nekoosa Wi USA
Posts: 6,066
RE: Changin Broad Heads What do you think?
ORIGINAL: zrexpilot
You know it's not ironic that all the people here that have problems use a WB arrow rest.
A fishtailing arrow can atrribute to no pass throughs, and a fish tailing arrow can still get robinhoods. You can also have good form at the range and have perfect arrow flight only to lose it all while shooting at a deer, could be fishtailing from poor form or just that rest causing it.
I would start by getting a dropaway.
You know it's not ironic that all the people here that have problems use a WB arrow rest.
A fishtailing arrow can atrribute to no pass throughs, and a fish tailing arrow can still get robinhoods. You can also have good form at the range and have perfect arrow flight only to lose it all while shooting at a deer, could be fishtailing from poor form or just that rest causing it.
I would start by getting a dropaway.
10-27-2005, 08:01 AM
#9
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: Changin Broad Heads What do you think?
You haveseveral things that are robbing your arrows of speed and energy. The wb is one. The ultra nock is another. Then there is the kisser. Each will take 2-5 fps - maybe even more -off your arrow speed, along with a corresponding loss of energy.
If your peep uses a rubber tube aligner, then there is another possible 5-10 fps. Then there is the aspect of using light carbon arrows. They don't absorb as much of the bow's energy as the 2315's you've gone to, usually a couple of foot pounds less.
Then thebow itself. The Nova S4 is a modified round wheel bow, so it doesn't produce as much speed and energy as a hard cam bow. 28" draw doesn't produce the energy of a 30" draw.
Individually, those things aren't too bad but taken all together... So, look at the entire system.
You can't do anything about your draw length, so you just have to live with it. The bow isn't churning out massive gobs of KE, so you have to do some things to maximize amount of energy it can put into your arrows.
Even though I'm no fan of the wb, there is no need to change your arrow rest... especially since you obviously think it's advantage offsets any performance shortcomings. Just so long as you've made an informed decision, I'm happy if you are.
I think you've made a very goodchoice in going to heavier arrows, although I think the 2315's will be a bit overspined. But since you're using a release, that might not matter too much. The 2315's will carry more energy from the bow and a lot more momentum. I'm a strong believer in momentum, most especially with lower KE rigs.
Get rid of some string weight. I'd suggest getting rid of the ultra nock and going to a string loop instead. Or, with a 38" axle to axle bow, just take it off and hook directly to the string using a brass nock and a cushion button. Save more weight by tying on a nockset instead of using the brass one.
Ditch the kisser. The peep is the only anchor point reference you need on the string. The kisser is redundant and a waste of energy.
If you've got the rubber tube peep, get rid of it and go with a smaller, lighter peep. Another thing about the rubber tubing is the noise it makes on the shot, and your setup is obviously making noise if that doe ducked your arrow so easily. I always liked the hunter size Fletcher Tru-peep, and also had good results with the Shurz-a-peep 2X2.
I think Muzzy has two major advantages over the T'heads. For one, their blade containment system is much better. The other is the trocar tip. T'headsuse a punch thru tip. With that Muzzy trocar tip, you can flat stone those facets to make the edges razor sharp. That makes Muzzy, in effect, a full cut-on-contact head for better penetration.
If your peep uses a rubber tube aligner, then there is another possible 5-10 fps. Then there is the aspect of using light carbon arrows. They don't absorb as much of the bow's energy as the 2315's you've gone to, usually a couple of foot pounds less.
Then thebow itself. The Nova S4 is a modified round wheel bow, so it doesn't produce as much speed and energy as a hard cam bow. 28" draw doesn't produce the energy of a 30" draw.
Individually, those things aren't too bad but taken all together... So, look at the entire system.
You can't do anything about your draw length, so you just have to live with it. The bow isn't churning out massive gobs of KE, so you have to do some things to maximize amount of energy it can put into your arrows.
Even though I'm no fan of the wb, there is no need to change your arrow rest... especially since you obviously think it's advantage offsets any performance shortcomings. Just so long as you've made an informed decision, I'm happy if you are.
I think you've made a very goodchoice in going to heavier arrows, although I think the 2315's will be a bit overspined. But since you're using a release, that might not matter too much. The 2315's will carry more energy from the bow and a lot more momentum. I'm a strong believer in momentum, most especially with lower KE rigs.
Get rid of some string weight. I'd suggest getting rid of the ultra nock and going to a string loop instead. Or, with a 38" axle to axle bow, just take it off and hook directly to the string using a brass nock and a cushion button. Save more weight by tying on a nockset instead of using the brass one.
Ditch the kisser. The peep is the only anchor point reference you need on the string. The kisser is redundant and a waste of energy.
If you've got the rubber tube peep, get rid of it and go with a smaller, lighter peep. Another thing about the rubber tubing is the noise it makes on the shot, and your setup is obviously making noise if that doe ducked your arrow so easily. I always liked the hunter size Fletcher Tru-peep, and also had good results with the Shurz-a-peep 2X2.
I think Muzzy has two major advantages over the T'heads. For one, their blade containment system is much better. The other is the trocar tip. T'headsuse a punch thru tip. With that Muzzy trocar tip, you can flat stone those facets to make the edges razor sharp. That makes Muzzy, in effect, a full cut-on-contact head for better penetration.
10-27-2005, 09:40 AM
#10
Giant Nontypical
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Nekoosa Wi USA
Posts: 6,066
RE: Changin Broad Heads What do you think?
ORIGINAL: Arthur P
You haveseveral things that are robbing your arrows of speed and energy. The wb is one. The ultra nock is another. Then there is the kisser. Each will take 2-5 fps - maybe even more -off your arrow speed, along with a corresponding loss of energy.
If your peep uses a rubber tube aligner, then there is another possible 5-10 fps. Then there is the aspect of using light carbon arrows. They don't absorb as much of the bow's energy as the 2315's you've gone to, usually a couple of foot pounds less.
Then thebow itself. The Nova S4 is a modified round wheel bow, so it doesn't produce as much speed and energy as a hard cam bow. 28" draw doesn't produce the energy of a 30" draw.
Individually, those things aren't too bad but taken all together... So, look at the entire system.
You can't do anything about your draw length, so you just have to live with it. The bow isn't churning out massive gobs of KE, so you have to do some things to maximize amount of energy it can put into your arrows.
Even though I'm no fan of the wb, there is no need to change your arrow rest... especially since you obviously think it's advantage offsets any performance shortcomings. Just so long as you've made an informed decision, I'm happy if you are.
I think you've made a very goodchoice in going to heavier arrows, although I think the 2315's will be a bit overspined. But since you're using a release, that might not matter too much. The 2315's will carry more energy from the bow and a lot more momentum. I'm a strong believer in momentum, most especially with lower KE rigs.
Get rid of some string weight. I'd suggest getting rid of the ultra nock and going to a string loop instead. Or, with a 38" axle to axle bow, just take it off and hook directly to the string using a brass nock and a cushion button. Save more weight by tying on a nockset instead of using the brass one.
Ditch the kisser. The peep is the only anchor point reference you need on the string. The kisser is redundant and a waste of energy.
If you've got the rubber tube peep, get rid of it and go with a smaller, lighter peep. Another thing about the rubber tubing is the noise it makes on the shot, and your setup is obviously making noise if that doe ducked your arrow so easily. I always liked the hunter size Fletcher Tru-peep, and also had good results with the Shurz-a-peep 2X2.
I think Muzzy has two major advantages over the T'heads. For one, their blade containment system is much better. The other is the trocar tip. T'headsuse a punch thru tip. With that Muzzy trocar tip, you can flat stone those facets to make the edges razor sharp. That makes Muzzy, in effect, a full cut-on-contact head for better penetration.
You haveseveral things that are robbing your arrows of speed and energy. The wb is one. The ultra nock is another. Then there is the kisser. Each will take 2-5 fps - maybe even more -off your arrow speed, along with a corresponding loss of energy.
If your peep uses a rubber tube aligner, then there is another possible 5-10 fps. Then there is the aspect of using light carbon arrows. They don't absorb as much of the bow's energy as the 2315's you've gone to, usually a couple of foot pounds less.
Then thebow itself. The Nova S4 is a modified round wheel bow, so it doesn't produce as much speed and energy as a hard cam bow. 28" draw doesn't produce the energy of a 30" draw.
Individually, those things aren't too bad but taken all together... So, look at the entire system.
You can't do anything about your draw length, so you just have to live with it. The bow isn't churning out massive gobs of KE, so you have to do some things to maximize amount of energy it can put into your arrows.
Even though I'm no fan of the wb, there is no need to change your arrow rest... especially since you obviously think it's advantage offsets any performance shortcomings. Just so long as you've made an informed decision, I'm happy if you are.
I think you've made a very goodchoice in going to heavier arrows, although I think the 2315's will be a bit overspined. But since you're using a release, that might not matter too much. The 2315's will carry more energy from the bow and a lot more momentum. I'm a strong believer in momentum, most especially with lower KE rigs.
Get rid of some string weight. I'd suggest getting rid of the ultra nock and going to a string loop instead. Or, with a 38" axle to axle bow, just take it off and hook directly to the string using a brass nock and a cushion button. Save more weight by tying on a nockset instead of using the brass one.
Ditch the kisser. The peep is the only anchor point reference you need on the string. The kisser is redundant and a waste of energy.
If you've got the rubber tube peep, get rid of it and go with a smaller, lighter peep. Another thing about the rubber tubing is the noise it makes on the shot, and your setup is obviously making noise if that doe ducked your arrow so easily. I always liked the hunter size Fletcher Tru-peep, and also had good results with the Shurz-a-peep 2X2.
I think Muzzy has two major advantages over the T'heads. For one, their blade containment system is much better. The other is the trocar tip. T'headsuse a punch thru tip. With that Muzzy trocar tip, you can flat stone those facets to make the edges razor sharp. That makes Muzzy, in effect, a full cut-on-contact head for better penetration.