RedAllison

If it is slipping then it was improperly installed to begin with. Simply burning the ends of a loop will NOT put enough of a "end" on the loop to prevent it from sliding through the knot. Most standard, pre-made loops are not long enough! I custom make loops for my customers and make them longer than normal so that I can actually burn the ends and THEN tie each end in a knot, and THEN tie the loop on the string. Unless you fray or physically cut the loop or string, it can't come loose or untie. That is the ONLY way one should be installed. Relying on a friction knot and some burnt nylon isn't enough when you consider the pressure a string/release is under while drawing and shooting a bow. It sounds funny and luckily you only have a fat lip to show for it, but a worse potential is your hand flying back and hitting you in the face while your release hits you in the eye and takes it out!!! [:@]

Be careful and tell your local bowshop to "get with the times" or find another one who is concerned with their customers personal safety!
RA

sprintflyer

A few years ago one of my shooting buddies was telling me about a new sorce for his loops. He had used some of the sting from his wife's window blinds! Worked o.k. on his 45# target bow but the 70# Mathews was a differant story! It is funny looking back on it now as he sucker punched himself in the nose after we all told him it would probaly break on the draw. Some people learn the hard way. I tie a small sheeps foot knot on the tag end of my loops and have not had one to fail in 15 years.

SF

BigJ71

Red,

I like the idea of the knots on the ends, as anything less than a break, the knot won't fail. I have a couple of questions though.

1. I like a very short loop. is there any way of tying a short loop? the only way I can see is to, first tie it,THEN make the end knots and burn.,I don't know if I like the idea of having to burn the ends while it's on the bow.

The way you describe it (by burning and tying the end knots first) there would be no way to make a short loop because of the length that would be needed to clear the end knots.

2. Is there any clearance issues (the tied ends touching the arrow nock) with the end knots for those who don't use any kind of string or brassnock? (string loop only) I serve on a nock sothe string loop is tied far enough away from the arrow, but some just use the string loop as their nock sets

Rick James

I have not had a loop pull through, however last weekend ata 3D shoot I had a loop that was worn excessevely slip between the jaw on my Ultra Xtreme with the talon head. This was my own fault though, I knew it was getting beat up and kept shooting it anyhow. I have never had one pull through though........

gobbleblaster

Thanks alot guys now you got me worried.

MOTOWNHONKEY

Why worry it really feels good. I was in a good mood all day long after I busted myself in the mouth. Makes you feel alive and vibrant.

Woodman 454

they are cheap....replace often

bigbulls

I am partially with RA on this. If the loop is slipping through then it wasn't tied on properly. However I do not agree that you must tie another knot to keep it from slipping. I have been using a loop for about 13 years now and have never had one of mine slip through. I have tie hundreds of these loops on for customers and have never had one of those come untied. I have never tied an extra knot on the tag ends.

#1 the right material makes a big difference. The camo material from Brownells is the best. It is 100% nylon for the sleeve as well as the core and as such makes a very nice ball on the end that will not pull through. Some loop material is made of nylon for the sleeve but uses a filler for the core of the string. This is very weak and does not melt a ball very well at all.

#2 is how you burn the ends. Simply cutting it and burning it will not be good enough. You must cut the string and then fluff then frayed end with your finger and then melt it going in circles around the fray so that you get an even and centered ball on the end. If you get a good melted ball you do not need to flatten it with the lighter as this will only make the ball skinny and weaker.

#3 is tying the knots. See the picture below. Notice that the loop goes over each side of the string. This is so that the loop pulls evenly on each side and does not have a tendancy to roll the string when drawing. If you tie the knots as I have illustrated then you should not have one slip on you. These knots pull tight on themselvs when under strain and only get tighter.

#4 To tie the loop cut a length about 6" long or so. Fray and burn one end before you tie any knots. After it dries tie one of the knots on the bow string leaving the other end long. Pull the tied end as tight as you can by hand. Now tie the other side and pull it snug but not too tight. You need a small ammount of slack to form the loop. Cut off the end about 3/8" long. Fray and melt the end to form the other ball. Now take needle nose pliers and insert into the loop and opne them up with force to form the loop.

#5 do not use super glue on the loop. It is bad for the fibers of the bow string as it will make them brittle and may cause them to break.

bigbulls

Here is the picture

Olink

Bigbulls is 100% right about this. If you follow the procedure he outlined you won't have to worry about a loop slipping. I've used loops at least as long as he has and have never had a problem either. I've found that the blue loop material that Zenith Archery sells to be top notch. It forms tighter hitches than any other material I've tried. The only way I can get the Zenith loops off my bowstring is to cut them off.