arrow on draw
 

I am shooting the Trophy Taker Shaky Hunter and when I draw the arrow follows most of the curve of the rest, not staying in the valley. This would not be a problem but I have the rest set to fall behind the riser which makes it so I can shoot a shorter arrow. "Overdraw" if you will. With a broadhead on it tends to slide into the riser and at times hitting before the head is behind the front of the riser causing a stop in all draw and arrow pull. My question is, am I expecting too much out of this rest or what can I do to have the arrow follow just the valley of the rest on the draw? Thanks for all..............Mitch

RE: arrow on draw
 

The Trophy Taker Shakey Hunter is a great rest. Do you have the arrow holder installed ahead of the rest?

RE: arrow on draw
 

Just because your rest is behind the riser of your bow a little ways does not mean that it acts like an over draw.

Remember that you are shooting a drop away rest. So the arrow is resting on the riser when the bow is relaxed. As you draw the string the rest rises and should be in the fully up position about 3 inches before you reach full draw.

You MUST cut your arrows to a length that will allow the arrow to rise sufficiently BEFORE your broadhead gets to the front of your riser.

The extra inch that you are cutting off to get a shorter arrow is so little in terms of weight that you will never notice the difference in speed or trajectory. It's only about 7 - 10 grains depending on what arrow you shoot.


If you want your drop away rest to act like an over draw then you need to purchase one of the drow aways that you can lock in the upright position. Such as the QAD ultra rest or ripcord. With the rest locked in the up position you can cut your arrows as short as you want to.

RE: arrow on draw
 

Bigbulls, the Trophy Taker Shakey Hunter should be up in the last 1"-2" of draw.

RE: arrow on draw
 

Thanks for the replys. Zak, yes the holder is ahead of the rest and Iagree the rest is a good one. BB, the rest comes up correctly in the draw cycle. The broad head will hit on the part of the riser that is basically the front of the bow. It does not hit on the shelf part. The arrow will follow the curve of the rest falling into the valley on full draw. This is not a violent movement that I am thinking the arrow is going completely off the rest ever.
I have turned the nockso the broadhead will draw with blades away from riser, (which is the beauty of a drop away rest for fletch clearence)in attempt to prevent this but I was looking to relieve any chance of this happening for more of a confidence issue.
Again thanks for all replys................Mitch

RE: arrow on draw
 

You MUST cut your arrows to a length that will allow the arrow to rise sufficiently BEFOREyour broadhead gets to the front of your riser. If you don't then your broadheads will make contact with the front of your riser justlike yours are doing now. And as Murphy is always standing over shoulders just waiting, one day it may cost you a buck.

In other words you need longer arrows to correct the problem.

RE: arrow on draw
 

I reread your last post.

Are you saying that your broadheads are actually clearing the front of the riser at the shelf 100% but are actually making contact with the window of the riser (right side)?

If this is the case then I would suggest moving your arrow holder farther left to keep the arrow sitting out farther from the window.

RE: arrow on draw
 

Correct, the broadhead hits on the window of the riser. In moving the holder part of the rest, wouldnt that take the bow out of tune? You are correct that a longer arrow would take care of this whole problem but I was trying to avoid buying new arrows. Again thanks..........................Mitch

RE: arrow on draw
 

No, you are thinking of the launcher arm. The arrow holder is what holds the arrow centered on the shelf before you draw the bow. It may be too close to the riser and moving it may help.

How is the clearance once it is drawn? Is it ok, or is it still touching or really close? Your rest may need to be adjusted out some. Depends on how it shoots with fixed heads.

Another thing could be you just don't draw the bow steady enough. Maybe your draw length is not correct, or you have too much draw weight. Or you could just need more practice drawing smoothly. Some people put a lot of torque on the bow while drawing, this is why they have so much trouble with prong rests. Could be your grip as well.

If your arrow is really close to the riser when drawn you may need new arrows any way. Two causes for that could be hand torque or an improperly spined arrow.

However if the arrow is centered pretty well at full draw and you just have problems with it hitting the side while drawing my guess would be you are having trouble drawing the bow. Maybe reduce the draw weight a little?

Something else it could be is if you have a string loop there may be too much tension on the nock between the loops. You could try spreading them out slightly. When shooting off the string under the arrow it tends to put downward force on the shaft while drawing. With a string loop if the loop is too tight on the nock sometimes the arrow will swing to the side when you draw.

It's kind of hard to know without seeing you shoot the bow.

Paul

RE: arrow on draw
 

Paul, thanks for the reply. Draw weight could be an issue here due to a recent shoulder injury. I usually shoot a broadhead checking tune after shooting alot of field points, so fatigue could fall in here as well. When I am at full draw, there is minimal space between the window and broadhead. Is it wrong to turn the arrow on the nock to line up the broadhead for clearence, making each arrow different on fletching alignment of the cock vane and arrow rest? Again thanks to all replys. I think I am going to start with user error first before I go adjusting the rest and all.