Help! My Lab puppy wont release the dummy after a retrieve
 

I have a 5 month old black lab and I am having trouble getting him to release his training dummy after he retrieves it. He has no problem fetching and coming back, but as soon as he gets to me he wants to play and have me chase him or play tug-o-war. I wont do either with him. Does anyone have any tips on how I can get him to drop the dummy? Thanks!!

Maybe you can try blowing in his ear. No, seriously, when he gets back to you, love him up, tell him he's a good boy, & pick up his ear & blow in it hard & short. He'll most likely spit the dummy out, & you can praise him some more for delivering.
Or just roll the dummy into his mouth, he'll instinctively release.

try this; one, have a check cord...a short one so when he comes back of the trys the play method, he can't...cause you can grab the rope and get him back...also try a nobbed dummy because they usually dont' want to grap on to that like they do the soft canvas ones...and he should want to release. also, throw in an area where he has no choice but to come all the way back to you

WORK ON YOUR COMMANDS AND DOG THAT YOUNG IS STILL LEARNING.
when he comes back he must learn to SIT,then you say DROP IT,then you throw it and say BACK.
toby does all 3 easy. actually i dont use the BACK no more.i use SIT/DROP IT

I USED THE HALLWAY IN MY YARD TO TRAIN TOBY. he had to come right too me , no way to get around me.YOUR idea is very good one and works.

some guys are against it but treats have worked great for me. Give him something he wants in return for giving you the dummy.

if you watch those dog shows they are always sneaking the dog a TREAT.
toby loves those PUPARONI STICKS.he will stand on his head for one.

Thanks for the advice!! Im gonna try your tips out.

I have three words of advice for you:

Force Fetch program

Yup, part of which is the DROP Command. Sounds like you are not following a structured program.

our lab would do the same thing only with pheasants... He would retrieve and bring it just out of your reach and would back away when u walked toward him. We got a shock collar and when he brings it back now if he tries to back away i give him a light buzz on a low setting. This only took one hunting season he retrieves all the way and gives the bird up now. good luck

Once he has his permanent teeth in, go through a thorough force fetch program or take him to someone that can do it. The FF is the foundation for everything that comes in the future. Work on his obedience so that it will eventually be rock solid; "Sit" should be the first thing he is taught and is the foundation. Once he comes back with the dummy, then grab the check cord and command him to sit. Also, start teaching him the "Drop" command as you open his mouth with one hand and take the dummy out. Eventually, he will connect the word with the action and then you can progress to have him opening his mouth to release without too much "coaxing".

The check cord (8-20' cord or leash) is very important at his age so he can't get away. FF is key and a must for any good hunting or competitive dog.

What exactly is a Forced Fetch program? I picked up a check cord (20') and it has helped. Thanks for the tips.

It is a conditioning tool using pain to teach the dog that having something in his mouth eliminates the applied pain such as an ear pinch or toe pinch.
Do some research online and only begin this training if you are able to continue on with it. There is no turning back once you've started. The dog will be more confident at the end of the training in every way and much more obedient.

I have to agree with the force fetch. If done right it seems harsh and the first time I did it it almost broke my heart. I raised labs for 30 yrs and this is by far the best method for training a dog to hold a dummy/bird until told to release it.
I don't like the command "drop it". Especially if your dog brings back a live pheasant and you tell him to 'drop it'. Then you have another retrieve.
My commands were fetch (to hold) and give (to release).
A smart dog will learn in about a week of short lessons. And he will remember it the rest of his life.

I also state give for a release. If he doesn't release I pat him on the head and say good dog. Then I take a front paw and slowly apply a small amount of pressure and say give me. I will apply slowly more pressure until he has given me the training dummy. Once this is done I let go and pat the dog for doing what I want. That way I see no need to carry a pocket full of treats when out hunting with him. He will be expecting treats each time he does good when really only a good pat on the head will work fine. They just want to know they are doing what you want them to do. Once they understand they will not hang around for another treat, but will start hunting again for another bird.

No Doubt about it. Although I do understand that some guys just don't have the time or effort to devote to a training program. For those in this situation, bring the dog to heal, give the drop command, if he refuses to drop, hold the bumper and force it futher into his mouth while giving the drop command then take it from his mouth. If he "locks down" on it before you get it clear of his mouth, repeat the command and actions. Atrition is your method for correction with pups.

First of all its a pup!

JW

I train protection dogs and Im sure I will get butchered for this. Anytime you use pain to get a dog to do something, you will create a flat and unreliable working dog. The degree of unreliability will depend upon the trainer as well as method. Think about it, would you rather go work for someone who praises you and gives you bonuses every time you do something right. Or would you rather work for someone that pinches you all day till you do something right. There is a difference between correcting a dog for what he does or does not know. For example how can you correct a puppy for not sitting the first time you ever give him the command. He has no idea what you want from him. That said, when you have a pup or dog who knows sit every time you give him the command, and then when he decides to disobey you when you give him the command, now it is time for a correction. To answer your question, obviously your pup likes to chase after a dummy. Take two dummys, throw him the first dummy. When he bring the first dummy back, hold the second one up but dont throw it, just let him see that you have one and are ready to throw it. This might go quick or you may have to wait for a while. Give him the command you will use to have him drop it. As soon as he drops it, throw the second one for him. This has to be instant so that he gets it. He will learn, the quicker I get the dummy, bring it back and drop it, the faster I get to fetch another one.

While this will work, you create another issue which is bad "mouth habits" which will carry into adulthood. With this method you will start to see the dog return and drop the bumper in a "lazy" manner or worse case senario drop the bumper short or in the field, just because they anticipate the next bumper. Consistancy and atrition are they biggest components in puppy training, The Force Fetch program is the only real resolution for these issue; everything else is just a temporary fix.

My weim pup was the same way. All I did was slip my pointer finger down the inside of his cheek and when he releases the dummy I make a quick pull and say give/drop which ever you like more. Now he just brings it right back to me. Also make sure the only one out there because he was starting to take it to the wrong person. He is a pup and will get easily distracted if he is anything like my little gray ghost.