Go Back  HuntingNet.com Forums > General Hunting Forums > Sporting Dogs
Help!  My Lab puppy wont release the dummy after a retrieve >

Help! My Lab puppy wont release the dummy after a retrieve

Sporting Dogs What's the best dog for what type of game? Find out what other hunters think.

Help! My Lab puppy wont release the dummy after a retrieve

Old 09-13-2010, 06:47 PM
  #11  
Spike
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location:
Posts: 62
Default

our lab would do the same thing only with pheasants... He would retrieve and bring it just out of your reach and would back away when u walked toward him. We got a shock collar and when he brings it back now if he tries to back away i give him a light buzz on a low setting. This only took one hunting season he retrieves all the way and gives the bird up now. good luck
bigtomshooter is offline  
Old 09-15-2010, 07:23 PM
  #12  
Fork Horn
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Holmen, WI
Posts: 132
Default

Once he has his permanent teeth in, go through a thorough force fetch program or take him to someone that can do it. The FF is the foundation for everything that comes in the future. Work on his obedience so that it will eventually be rock solid; "Sit" should be the first thing he is taught and is the foundation. Once he comes back with the dummy, then grab the check cord and command him to sit. Also, start teaching him the "Drop" command as you open his mouth with one hand and take the dummy out. Eventually, he will connect the word with the action and then you can progress to have him opening his mouth to release without too much "coaxing".

The check cord (8-20' cord or leash) is very important at his age so he can't get away. FF is key and a must for any good hunting or competitive dog.
BigRack23 is offline  
Old 09-16-2010, 05:11 AM
  #13  
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
 
SD_Gobbler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 153
Default

What exactly is a Forced Fetch program? I picked up a check cord (20') and it has helped. Thanks for the tips.
SD_Gobbler is offline  
Old 09-16-2010, 12:11 PM
  #14  
Typical Buck
 
4evrhtn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Central PA
Posts: 829
Default

It is a conditioning tool using pain to teach the dog that having something in his mouth eliminates the applied pain such as an ear pinch or toe pinch.
Do some research online and only begin this training if you are able to continue on with it. There is no turning back once you've started. The dog will be more confident at the end of the training in every way and much more obedient.
4evrhtn is offline  
Old 09-16-2010, 12:25 PM
  #15  
Boone & Crockett
 
bronko22000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 12,737
Default

I have to agree with the force fetch. If done right it seems harsh and the first time I did it it almost broke my heart. I raised labs for 30 yrs and this is by far the best method for training a dog to hold a dummy/bird until told to release it.
I don't like the command "drop it". Especially if your dog brings back a live pheasant and you tell him to 'drop it'. Then you have another retrieve.
My commands were fetch (to hold) and give (to release).
A smart dog will learn in about a week of short lessons. And he will remember it the rest of his life.
bronko22000 is offline  
Old 09-25-2010, 04:31 AM
  #16  
Boone & Crockett
 
Phil from Maine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maine
Posts: 12,548
Default

I also state give for a release. If he doesn't release I pat him on the head and say good dog. Then I take a front paw and slowly apply a small amount of pressure and say give me. I will apply slowly more pressure until he has given me the training dummy. Once this is done I let go and pat the dog for doing what I want. That way I see no need to carry a pocket full of treats when out hunting with him. He will be expecting treats each time he does good when really only a good pat on the head will work fine. They just want to know they are doing what you want them to do. Once they understand they will not hang around for another treat, but will start hunting again for another bird.
Phil from Maine is offline  
Old 09-25-2010, 07:13 AM
  #17  
Spike
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 65
Default

Originally Posted by GrayDawg
I have three words of advice for you:

Force Fetch program
No Doubt about it. Although I do understand that some guys just don't have the time or effort to devote to a training program. For those in this situation, bring the dog to heal, give the drop command, if he refuses to drop, hold the bumper and force it futher into his mouth while giving the drop command then take it from his mouth. If he "locks down" on it before you get it clear of his mouth, repeat the command and actions. Atrition is your method for correction with pups.
Tiereta is offline  
Old 09-26-2010, 06:59 PM
  #18  
JW
Super Moderator
 
JW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,432
Default

First of all its a pup!

JW
JW is offline  
Old 10-17-2010, 04:25 PM
  #19  
Fork Horn
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: delaware
Posts: 128
Default

I train protection dogs and Im sure I will get butchered for this. Anytime you use pain to get a dog to do something, you will create a flat and unreliable working dog. The degree of unreliability will depend upon the trainer as well as method. Think about it, would you rather go work for someone who praises you and gives you bonuses every time you do something right. Or would you rather work for someone that pinches you all day till you do something right. There is a difference between correcting a dog for what he does or does not know. For example how can you correct a puppy for not sitting the first time you ever give him the command. He has no idea what you want from him. That said, when you have a pup or dog who knows sit every time you give him the command, and then when he decides to disobey you when you give him the command, now it is time for a correction. To answer your question, obviously your pup likes to chase after a dummy. Take two dummys, throw him the first dummy. When he bring the first dummy back, hold the second one up but dont throw it, just let him see that you have one and are ready to throw it. This might go quick or you may have to wait for a while. Give him the command you will use to have him drop it. As soon as he drops it, throw the second one for him. This has to be instant so that he gets it. He will learn, the quicker I get the dummy, bring it back and drop it, the faster I get to fetch another one.
sussexhunter is offline  
Old 10-22-2010, 04:33 AM
  #20  
Spike
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 65
Default

Originally Posted by sussexhunter
I train protection dogs and Im sure I will get butchered for this. Anytime you use pain to get a dog to do something, you will create a flat and unreliable working dog. The degree of unreliability will depend upon the trainer as well as method. Think about it, would you rather go work for someone who praises you and gives you bonuses every time you do something right. Or would you rather work for someone that pinches you all day till you do something right. There is a difference between correcting a dog for what he does or does not know. For example how can you correct a puppy for not sitting the first time you ever give him the command. He has no idea what you want from him. That said, when you have a pup or dog who knows sit every time you give him the command, and then when he decides to disobey you when you give him the command, now it is time for a correction. To answer your question, obviously your pup likes to chase after a dummy. Take two dummys, throw him the first dummy. When he bring the first dummy back, hold the second one up but dont throw it, just let him see that you have one and are ready to throw it. This might go quick or you may have to wait for a while. Give him the command you will use to have him drop it. As soon as he drops it, throw the second one for him. This has to be instant so that he gets it. He will learn, the quicker I get the dummy, bring it back and drop it, the faster I get to fetch another one.
While this will work, you create another issue which is bad "mouth habits" which will carry into adulthood. With this method you will start to see the dog return and drop the bumper in a "lazy" manner or worse case senario drop the bumper short or in the field, just because they anticipate the next bumper. Consistancy and atrition are they biggest components in puppy training, The Force Fetch program is the only real resolution for these issue; everything else is just a temporary fix.
Tiereta is offline  

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.