bobcat/coyote trap
02-08-2012, 06:52 PM
#2
Fork Horn
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 101
i mean theoretically, it can work. do you have any experience working with metal? I feel like building a pressure and shut system for the door would be quite complicated, but then again, I haven't done any research on it. But yes, if you know what you're doing and make it big enough, it should work.
02-09-2012, 06:47 AM
#4
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 16
i mean theoretically, it can work. do you have any experience working with metal? I feel like building a pressure and shut system for the door would be quite complicated, but then again, I haven't done any research on it. But yes, if you know what you're doing and make it big enough, it should work.
02-09-2012, 08:43 AM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,902
Easy concept, difficult application...
So here are my experiences in this arena...
I have built my own live-traps for about 15yrs from diamond mesh and rod-stock frames.
You are correct, that a spring closure system is complicated and unnecessary. All you need is a trip-plate (what the animal steps in at the rear of the cage to trip the door), and a pair of washers. I have a set rod running the upper corner of the cage bent (or welded) like ] that holds the gate open until tripped. The gate end "tip" of the ] holds the gate open, and the trip end of the ] rests on the trip linkage. The ] is laying on its side until tripped, then it rotates downward. The trip linkage is a simple rod that comes up just far enough to hold the ] flat until it's stepped on, then it falls out of the way and releases the trip end of the ]. A very light spring holds the trip plate UP, holding the linkage UP, holding the gate UP.
The sides of the gate and the "door frame" have mated rods with a set of washers holding them together. To open the gate, I slide both washers to the top, pull the gate open, and set the ]. When the gate closes, the washers slide back to the bottom, locking the swing end of the gate to it's side frames. I have caught hundreds of coons in this type of trap and have never had a coon figure out how to raise both washers at once (I HAVE watched coons raise one side then the other and push on the gate though. Amazingly intelligent animals).
BUT............................................... ..................
Getting a coyote into a "box-trap" is a rare occurence, it can and does happen, but if they can see AT ALL that it's a box, no go. They'll also work very diligently to reach the meat from the backside of the trap. I basically bury mine in a brush pile, or under the branches of an evergreen to make the mouth the only way in.
Also, I REALLY can't recommend box-trapping bob-cats, unless you're talking about a HUGE cage (like the size of a porta-john), or you really don't care that much about the condition of the fur. Bobcats must have some genetic psychosis, because they do NOT do well when trapped, so they'll stick their arms out through the sides until they're bloody, and rub on/bounce off the walls until they have huge bald spots. I have caught dozens of cats this way, and probably one out of 20 wasn't bloody or bald when I found it.
For cats (and coons both), also make sure that there isn't anything around that they can reach from the inside, this includes in the back of your truck, and wherever you're going to store them until you take them out of the cage. I had a cat pull an entire 8'x10' tarp into a cage with him once, absolutely shredded it. Certainly made getting him OUT of the cage a dicey situation since he had buried himself in blue string.
Half a dead rabbit is great bait for coyotes, bird wings are better for bobcats. Or Fancy Feast wet cat-food, which works great for coons as well.
So yeah, it's super easy to build the traps, and I can send you drawings if you want, but I can't say that I'd recommend the practice unless you have a good reason.
I have built my own live-traps for about 15yrs from diamond mesh and rod-stock frames.
You are correct, that a spring closure system is complicated and unnecessary. All you need is a trip-plate (what the animal steps in at the rear of the cage to trip the door), and a pair of washers. I have a set rod running the upper corner of the cage bent (or welded) like ] that holds the gate open until tripped. The gate end "tip" of the ] holds the gate open, and the trip end of the ] rests on the trip linkage. The ] is laying on its side until tripped, then it rotates downward. The trip linkage is a simple rod that comes up just far enough to hold the ] flat until it's stepped on, then it falls out of the way and releases the trip end of the ]. A very light spring holds the trip plate UP, holding the linkage UP, holding the gate UP.
The sides of the gate and the "door frame" have mated rods with a set of washers holding them together. To open the gate, I slide both washers to the top, pull the gate open, and set the ]. When the gate closes, the washers slide back to the bottom, locking the swing end of the gate to it's side frames. I have caught hundreds of coons in this type of trap and have never had a coon figure out how to raise both washers at once (I HAVE watched coons raise one side then the other and push on the gate though. Amazingly intelligent animals).
BUT............................................... ..................
Getting a coyote into a "box-trap" is a rare occurence, it can and does happen, but if they can see AT ALL that it's a box, no go. They'll also work very diligently to reach the meat from the backside of the trap. I basically bury mine in a brush pile, or under the branches of an evergreen to make the mouth the only way in.
Also, I REALLY can't recommend box-trapping bob-cats, unless you're talking about a HUGE cage (like the size of a porta-john), or you really don't care that much about the condition of the fur. Bobcats must have some genetic psychosis, because they do NOT do well when trapped, so they'll stick their arms out through the sides until they're bloody, and rub on/bounce off the walls until they have huge bald spots. I have caught dozens of cats this way, and probably one out of 20 wasn't bloody or bald when I found it.
For cats (and coons both), also make sure that there isn't anything around that they can reach from the inside, this includes in the back of your truck, and wherever you're going to store them until you take them out of the cage. I had a cat pull an entire 8'x10' tarp into a cage with him once, absolutely shredded it. Certainly made getting him OUT of the cage a dicey situation since he had buried himself in blue string.
Half a dead rabbit is great bait for coyotes, bird wings are better for bobcats. Or Fancy Feast wet cat-food, which works great for coons as well.
So yeah, it's super easy to build the traps, and I can send you drawings if you want, but I can't say that I'd recommend the practice unless you have a good reason.
02-09-2012, 01:28 PM
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,902
I guess one question would be "why do you want to catch them alive?"
The only reason I use live traps is because I (used to be, not for 2012) a Nuissance Animal Damage Controller for KS and would use live traps when I was working a job near a home with dogs, cats, whatever and couldn't use snares and leg hold traps.
The only reason I use live traps is because I (used to be, not for 2012) a Nuissance Animal Damage Controller for KS and would use live traps when I was working a job near a home with dogs, cats, whatever and couldn't use snares and leg hold traps.
02-09-2012, 01:45 PM
#9
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wichita Kansas USA
Posts: 699
the only reason i was going to use live traps is that is what i have. once i find one in the trap it will be a bullet in the head before i remove them from the trap. again any suggestions on bait for armadillos?
02-09-2012, 04:57 PM
#10
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 16
No bait necesssary. I guess they think it's a hollow log and they go in to look for worms or whatever. Just put it in an area where there is activity, and they will eventually go in. After you catch the first one, and it spends the night, the trap is "seasoned", and they will be more eager to check it out. It works very well.