i have shot 4 deer with my 25 wssm. i will go coyote hunting with my 25 wssm. would i shot it in the head, neck, or shoulder

With the .25 you can shoot it where ever you want.If you are keeping the hides try to stay away from the star on there back.That is the piece of fur most fur companies want.

Can"t go wrong with the shoulder, most of the time. If they are not broad side, the chest is good also.

BS.

Why is that BS.

The part about the 25 is accurate, the stuff about the star on the back is not. The fur industry uses the belly fur of coyotes for their best garments, the head/neck/feet are useless for true garment manufacturing. The top of the shoulders is a common place to see early signs of rubbing: which is commonly used by fur buyers to dock or deny your fur since the whole thing is likely tobegin slippinggaurd hairs during handling processes.

The long "hairs" on the back are not profitable for fur companies.... the "underfur" on the belly is their cash cow. Thestar (which is actually a diamond)is fairly common in coyotes, but certainly not present in the majority of the animals I kill. We'll see some with white socks on their feet, white tips to the tail, black muzzles and diamonds on their forheads- but none of that affects fur value so long as the bellies are good. You should aim to kill- not aim to skin. Headshots will be lethal and great for the furbuyer- but they're often hard to make. Stick with shoulders/lungs or centermass when you can.

Well the fur coat from the coyotes I had made was totally back hair.So I wont agree with you on all of that.I have been around alot of fur and I know about slipping fur.usally the STAR represents a prime animal to most fur buyers I know.The belly fur is used to dye and make alot of short hair fur products like you are refurring to.The coats and more expensive fur producls are from the long hair. Its more realistic to see a fur with the guard hairs in place.

Again, BS. Not all coyotes have a diamond marking on their shoulders- if it took a diamond to be prime... I wouldn't sell 10 coyotes a year. That's like saying a person must be left handed to speak english? "Prime" is a term given to fur that has developed an underfur, and the skinis readyretain the fur through the tanning process. A "Blue" pelt will not hold the fur, and therefor is "Unprime". This has nothing to do with any coloration or markings on the animals pelt.

Some folks believe an animals coat primes as the weather turns colder, but this is not true. Animal fur begins the priming process as a reaction to fading light levels they encounter each day. With shorter days, comes increasingly primed fur. The dark and dreary days of winter create prime fur: weather the temperatures bottom out in single digits or hover around 60. The length of guard hairs and thickness of underfur is obviously different between Arizona coyotes and Montanna coyotes, but most areas in the continental US will allow fur to prime. A Montanna coyote with a diamond on his back in July is just as worthless as one without a diamond on his back- markings has nothing to do with priming.

The coat you speak of is not a common "Fur Industry" item. 95% of coyote fur sold to the fur market will not end up in a garment like that- so the value of those coats or the fur used in them is insignifigant to the big picture of skinning a coyote.




Let's Review:


STAR:







Diamond:









Unprime Coyote Fur









Prime Coyote Fur:

just tell me where to shot it at. yall are completeley

Hey hihope, just always try to put one in the shoulder or dead in the chest.I think it"s your highest % shot, I think most exp. coyote hunters will agree. In a situation where all you have is a head shot, bacouse of brush, go ahead and go with the head shot if need be. I would be more apt to take a Texas heart shot than a head.