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ditch the 3 jawed chuck in the hammer type pullers and use a shell holder, problem solved!
RR |
^ This... I thought that was a given!
EDIT TO ADD: I use the shell holders from the Lee AutoPrime (hand primer) in my hammer. Standard shell holders work fine too, but I had a bit of a headache with some getting stuck in the collet nut, so I swapped over to the Lee priming shell holders. |
No disrespect No Mercy but I was told by a bullet maker who shot bench rest. That as long as the ring at the base of the bullet is not marked Other marks on the bullet do not matter. As for the hammer bullt puller I pitched it more of a pain then it was worth. Besides I had to many bullets with deformed tips from that thing.
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Originally Posted by wild bill g
(Post 4326514)
No disrespect No Mercy but I was told by a bullet maker who shot bench rest. That as long as the ring at the base of the bullet is not marked Other marks on the bullet do not matter. As for the hammer bullt puller I pitched it more of a pain then it was worth. Besides I had to many bullets with deformed tips from that thing.
RR |
If you are meticulous, and have an accurate rifle, this is possible, its a 3 shot group, shot at 752 yards from a custom built rifle chambered in 6.5 Gibbs, running a 140 gr burger at 3280 fps. this ammo is loaded with no specialty tools, just using dies, consistency and knowledge.
![]() RR |
I have both the inertia and the collet type and I'm sorry NoMercy but this is probably the first time I've ever disagreed with you (at least partially). I've used my inertia puller thousands of times and I've never damaged a bullet nor had powder fly all over. I do have a piece of dense foam at the bottom to protect the bullet tip and once it is out of the case I dump the entire contents into a plastic bowl recovering almost every grain of powder and the bullet. With the collet type puller I have damaged bullets because they had to be gripped too tightly to be pulled because of a crimp. But they do work very well for pulling light bullets as you mentioned. Like a .223. I have collets for 22, 270, 7mm, 30, 8mm and 45.
So to answer the post, if you're only going to be pulling a few bullets now and then I would save my money and go with the inertia puller. |
My powder scattering problem may just be me. After I get about 10 rounds in, I tend to drift a bit, and it's almost a certainty I will fail to notice when one of the bullets drops, and I'll take a backswing before I notice the bullet is free. Powder flies out the tail of the hammer.
It's a lot better at containing powder even when I backswing with the Lee shell holder, but I still end up getting a bit of powder free flying around my shop. Not a big issue, probably less mess than any time I deprime, let alone when I change/empty my powder dispensers... Despite so many years doing lab work, I'm terrible about powder management. I'm also very persnickety about powder management. A dozen kernels around the base of my press after a hundred rounds is, "a mess." |
I'm fairly new to this reloading mallarkey and I might have stumbled across a universal puller. take the die out of a single stage press, Put he cartridge in the shellholder as per normal, pull the handle down all the way, attach a rubber keyless chuck to the bullet (the kind you get on a cordless drill) and pull the handle back up. Simple.
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Thanks for the ear plug hack. Never thought of that !!!
I use the hammer type. First ever whack made me turn my head as if it was going to fire the round. After getting past that first cringe, I now easily whack away. I recover bullet, case, and powder without issue. |
Originally Posted by toxo.uk
(Post 4328433)
I'm fairly new to this reloading mallarkey and I might have stumbled across a universal puller. take the die out of a single stage press, Put he cartridge in the shellholder as per normal, pull the handle down all the way, attach a rubber keyless chuck to the bullet (the kind you get on a cordless drill) and pull the handle back up. Simple.
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