Using OAL Gauge and Comparator 30-06
09-03-2014, 01:26 PM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,902
I was in a bit of a hurry yesterday afternoon, then reread my post this morning and it read like Chinese kids toy instructions.
Doesn't take long to put diagrams together in powerpoint, and I was stuck on a conference call that didn't really need my attention, so I HOPE that better explains how I think the Hornady Bullet comparator should be used.
On the other hand, if your comparator isn't the EXACT diameter as your land ID, it's 100% useless.
09-03-2014, 02:21 PM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern wv
Posts: 3,646
HOPEFULLY it's helpful for Street Doctor, or others that google search and find their way here.
I was in a bit of a hurry yesterday afternoon, then reread my post this morning and it read like Chinese kids toy instructions.
Doesn't take long to put diagrams together in powerpoint, and I was stuck on a conference call that didn't really need my attention, so I HOPE that better explains how I think the Hornady Bullet comparator should be used.
On the other hand, if your comparator isn't the EXACT diameter as your land ID, it's 100% useless.
I was in a bit of a hurry yesterday afternoon, then reread my post this morning and it read like Chinese kids toy instructions.
Doesn't take long to put diagrams together in powerpoint, and I was stuck on a conference call that didn't really need my attention, so I HOPE that better explains how I think the Hornady Bullet comparator should be used.
On the other hand, if your comparator isn't the EXACT diameter as your land ID, it's 100% useless.
RR
09-03-2014, 02:30 PM
#13
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 57
Nomercy thank you very much! The diagrams definitely give me a better understanding. Ridge runner, can you describe the method you're talking about?
The big thing I was stuck on was not violating 3.340" as a max COAL. Embarrassingly my caliper was not zeroed in the first post I made.
The big thing I was stuck on was not violating 3.340" as a max COAL. Embarrassingly my caliper was not zeroed in the first post I made.
09-03-2014, 02:48 PM
#14
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern wv
Posts: 3,646
street, first understand, the col in manuals means almost nothing to most loaders, your pressure level is determined by your chamber size and throat length, pressure starts to build once the case is formed to your chamber and the bullet hits the lands
what I do is stick a bullet in the chamber and hold it against the lands with a pencil, then slide a ramrod down the barrel till I feel it touch the bullet tip (ramrod has to have a flat jag on it) I put a mark on the rod, then I close the bolt, run the rod down till its against the boltface, put another mark on the rod, measure the distance between the marks, that's my max col with THAT bullet, you may have to shorten it to max.mag length unless you are happy loading one cartridge at a time
that's how I've done it for 40 years, back then there weren't these tools available, worked then, works now not fixin what ain't broke
RR
what I do is stick a bullet in the chamber and hold it against the lands with a pencil, then slide a ramrod down the barrel till I feel it touch the bullet tip (ramrod has to have a flat jag on it) I put a mark on the rod, then I close the bolt, run the rod down till its against the boltface, put another mark on the rod, measure the distance between the marks, that's my max col with THAT bullet, you may have to shorten it to max.mag length unless you are happy loading one cartridge at a time
that's how I've done it for 40 years, back then there weren't these tools available, worked then, works now not fixin what ain't broke
RR
09-03-2014, 06:20 PM
#16
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,902
You got that right Topgun! Sure seems like a 'handy tool' should make life easier, not more complicated, right?
Another simple method, what I was taught to use a long time ago (I'm not quite as grey as Ridge though
) is "smoking the bullet".
The way I was TAUGHT was to seat a bullet really long with a firm crimp to hold it in place, then use a match to soot or "smoke" the bullet black. Then close the cartridge (just bullet and case) into the chamber, jamming it into the lands.
Then when you eject the cartridge, you'll have rifling marks in the soot. COAL minus the length of the witness marks, minus your desired bullet jump, and you have your COAL for THAT BULLET. These days, rather than sooting with a match, I use magic marker as my 'witness fluid'.
I've heard of the ram rod method (might have seen it in a manual even?), but it also is reliant upon the TIP not being deformed (since the ram rod engages the tip), so I revert back to the old school "smoking" method.
Many ways to skin a cat. Sadly, new "tools" don't always make life simpler, they just make more money for the folks selling them.
Another simple method, what I was taught to use a long time ago (I'm not quite as grey as Ridge though
) is "smoking the bullet".The way I was TAUGHT was to seat a bullet really long with a firm crimp to hold it in place, then use a match to soot or "smoke" the bullet black. Then close the cartridge (just bullet and case) into the chamber, jamming it into the lands.
Then when you eject the cartridge, you'll have rifling marks in the soot. COAL minus the length of the witness marks, minus your desired bullet jump, and you have your COAL for THAT BULLET. These days, rather than sooting with a match, I use magic marker as my 'witness fluid'.
I've heard of the ram rod method (might have seen it in a manual even?), but it also is reliant upon the TIP not being deformed (since the ram rod engages the tip), so I revert back to the old school "smoking" method.
Many ways to skin a cat. Sadly, new "tools" don't always make life simpler, they just make more money for the folks selling them.
