Ridge Runner

manuals are nothing but guidelines, no 2 chambers even if they are cut with the same reamer runs the exact same pressure with the same loads.
do to liabilities involved max loads today are watered down, mainly due to many many inexperienced loaders not knowing how to determine pressure limits,
look at all the threads you see today, folks asking why their loads do this or do that, when the signs are obvious but they just don't see them or know what they are, you can only learn so much on the net, reading doesn't make experience.
I follow my rifle more than follow a manual. I can assure you brass makes a difference, I've saw some brass destroyed by low pressure fireform loads when others will take much higher pressure in stride. I do not recommend interchanging it. In my experience I would rather shoot 1.5 gr. above max in brass I work the load with then to shoot the max load in brass I haven't worked the load up with. worse thing that can happen is you lose accuracy, with unproven brass you could lose an eye.
RR

Topgun 3006

***Your comments have absolutely nothing to do with what one member has suggested regarding mixing components as long as a person is below the max powder listed for one particular load in a manual. Please find one manual that states that is a principle that can or should be followed in reloading. You won't because there isn't a manual out there that basicly says anything other than "don't mix components unless starting from scratch whenever a component is changed" and that includes cases! It's really a miracle there aren't a lot more accidents with some of the things you hear regarding reloading and a couple situations have already been mentioned in this thread that could have led to serious or fatal results. PS: This serious subject is nothing to be putting up smiley faces after your retorts that will only confuse a newbie to reloading!

Gunplummer

I have to agree that not all load books are created equal. I would suggest the Hornady load books for beginners. The beginning of their books is full of information and explanations of what is going on in the chamber when a shooter pulls the trigger. There are warnings posted in the load pages about hot loads in certain rifle designs as opposed to what they used for a test rifle. There are warnings about using different bullet designs. (The original post was about mixing brass, not bullets.) I have made quite a few reamers in my time and the case body tolerance (SAAMI) is usually around .002. The ammo makers specs for the case body diameter is usually around .008. Add the headspace allowance to that and it really is pretty much. Other than the neck being too thick for the chamber that was cut, mixing good brass means nothing. "Good" meaning brass that was not fired 5 times already. I usually buy new brass, but still check every case before loading. I often find flaws in new brass. Years back I took .303 British brass and re-worked it into 6.5 Japanese brass. I cut one case each the long way and the .303 brass had a thicker wall down by the bottom. I did not see one bit of difference at the range with the same load. Anyway, what gave the "Newbee" the idea to shoot hot loads? I NEVER saw a load book that condoned shooting hot loads for accuracy. I bet he read it on an internet forum.