Reloading Presses
 

With the new year starting, filing taxes occur. I have wanted to get into reloading for about a year now. Now with all the presses I have been looking at (mainly progressive) my brother has brought up a point about why would I need a progressive loader? Just to give you info about my shooting life. I really want to reload 257 weatherby mag(main reason) and 223/5.56. I might go shooting 2x a month and maybe shoot 10-20 rounds of the 257 at most because its hard to get/expensive(hint reloading) and maybe 60-80 rounds of 5.56/223each time I go. Is a progressive press really needed with the amount of shooting I do? And again the main reason for me reloading is the 257 weatherby. I am looking for a whole kit. RCBS/Hornady are my 2 main manufactures that I have considered as that's what is pretty popular in my area.

I figured a progressive reloader would be easier instead of a single stage press?

Whats the difference between a media tumbler and a hot tub cleaner? Which is easier?

Thanks for your input

Progressives are faster but a little more complicated. If that's what you want I'd go Dillon 550. Manual index & case/bullet feeding and can be used as a single stage until you feel comfortable using multiple stations. That said I would still recommend the rock chucker supreme kit to start. The press and tools will always have a time and place for use, and 1-200 rounds a month isn't overkill for single stage loading.

Media tumbling is usually done in vibratory tumblers. Cheap to get into and has worked for years; doesn't clean the inside of case or primer pockets much but that doesn't really matter. Wet tumbling is done in more expensive rotary tumblers; stainless steel pin media won't wear out and this method cleans the inside and primer pockets of brass like new. More effort involved but cleaner brass. I'm not really familiar with ultrasonic cleaning but I've read mixed reviews on its effectiveness.

The RCBS rockchucker is the way to go. I have been loading for 45+ years now, and have tried various combinations, and prefer the rockchucker hands down.
The vibratory tumbler will do all that you need,

For the amount of shooting you're doing, it's going to be hard to make a reloading setup pay for itself very quickly, even less so if you go the progressive route. I generally reload in lots of at least 50 rounds unless I'm doing load development. For some calibers, I'm still shooting up the ammunition I'd loaded back in the late 1990s.

Thanks for the input. I think it will pay off? An average box of 257 weatherby mag is 60 bucks and depending on what type of bullet they can be as high as 80-90 for a box. 69/70grain bullets for 223 are hard to find and somewhat expensive, the tsx bullets are pretty expensive as well, which I use as a hunting round. But I really just want to do it for a fun little hobby. Again, I am mainly using it for 257 weatherby reloads.

For some reason, "2x per month" didn't register the first time I read this. If you're TRULY shooting that much, then reloading probably would pay off. However, I don't recommend progressives if you're just getting started. There are a myriad of other tools you're still going to need and time you're going to need to invest if your reloading efforts are to pay off.

My reloading method just getting started amounted more to stuffing good bullets on top of readily available and cheap powder. Over the years, I find that's how a lot of us got started. Today, powder isn't all that available or cheap, and neither are good bullets.

I probably saved something like $50 box on the .338s I just put together. 50 rounds in it will probably last me at least three seasons. It's not about how much I saved though, it's about the load being tuned and tailored to MY rifle, not the factory's. Of course, it took quite a bit of time and development to get there. The fact that I loaded them on one of my Rockchuckers over my RL550B probably belies that I wasn't in that big of a hurry with them, checking this, measuring that, double-checking, ....

I'd still start with a single stage. Once you're turning out consistent ammo with it, then move up to a progressive.

I personally would go with a RCBS single stage press with the amount of shooting you are presently doing. Nothing like the feeling of harvesting game with ammo you assembled.

I bought a tumbler at a machine shop auction sale in the 1970's for $10.00, it replaced one of those single drum rock tumblers I found at a yard sale for a couple dollars.
The rock tumbler could do about 50 cases easy and maybe 100 if ya wanted to push it.

I can do about a thousand now.

:D Al

Another vote for the RCBS Rockchucker press and kit.

Best Value
 

Best value would be obtained from a Lee 50th Anniversary special. Of course, if you absolutely must, you can pay more for a brand name with no noticeable additional features/functions. They stay in business that way.

Biggest problem with Lee is the warranty. And the quality. And the resale value. Etc...

I think I am going to go with RCBS. The rockchucker has a kit and is relatively affordable and also there is an explorer kit which is almost the same thing. Seems like rockchucker is the way to go, so that will probably be my expense to start. I know there will be lots to learn as far as dies, powders, bullets, etc. So lets hope the IRS will get the refunds out and get this show on the road. I have been searching around for free load data. Does anyone have any suggestions of their own?

One question about dies. I see there are regular dies and there are dies that have a micrometer dial like the high end forsters that are like 100 bucks. Do those really help?

Yes...buy yourself a manual for the bullet you intend to shoot and use their load data. You have no idea of what went into "free load data" on the Internet and you really do not want to risk your firearm or body parts.

I am still new to reloading and I would echo what others have said about the single stage. There is a lot to learn at first and a progressive press will only make things more complicated. Start with the single stage. After a while you will have a better idea of what your reloading needs will be and how much time you can devote to this.

Reloading is a fun way to add a new element to your shooting.

Just buy the regular dies to start out. You can buy that fancy Nancy stuff once you get established and find you like doing it.

I like the Lyman rifle reloading manual which list several different bullets for each caliber.

Biggest thing is be consistent. Be anal about NO DISTRACTIONS. My family learned quick if I said I was going to reload so don't bother me. Only took one time of taking a head off and spitting down the neck before screwing the head back on to end that stuff.

:D Al

my vote is with RCBS also. ive been using on old RCBS jr. press for about 35 years and its still going strong. I load 300 H&H mags with it and have no problems with it. also load 30-06, 243, and 44 mags too. the rockchucker is a great press to get along with the kit.

I found a kit and I think I might be going for this. At least this is what I am interested in since it almost comes with everything. What do yall think about it?

http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBSr...h-All+Products

There's some "fluff" included here. The RCBS Rockchucker packages are generally the best way to get started, but you don't absolutely need an electronic powder measure or powered case prep tool to get started. Yeah, they're nice to have, but the next package down is less than half the cost of this one. If you have the money and are pretty convinced that you'll stick with reloading, they're something to consider. But, that's a lot of extra money tied up in expensive tools where a simple beam scale, Uniflow powder measure, and handtools can get it done as well.

I added the powder measure here some 25 years after I started reloading. It's usually pretty accurate, and I'm happy with it, but I still check it every few rounds with the old-fashioned beam scale from my original kit.

The tool that made the most difference in my reloading wasn't a reloading tool at all - a chronograph. When you start looking at the results downrange, any number of variables can play: Your shooting ability, capabilities of your firearm, environment, quality of your ammunition, ... It's the latter you're concerned with here, and if you're serious about accuracy, you need to be able to isolate and correct or mitigate any of the above factors. You can guess, or you can know. My "old" reloads weren't consistent from shot-to-shot, sometimes as much as 250 fps difference between them, but I didn't know that until I bought the chronograph. Is it any wonder then that I wasn't getting the results I could with factory ammunition? Live and learn. Isolated. Corrected. Of course, along the road to correction were more tools (caliper, runout gauge,...) and processes (case trimming, cleaning, ...). The downside, today I can't often excuse a miss on my reloads.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd have bought the same Rockchucker kit I did back then (the next one down from this one), a chronograph, a caliper, a case trimmer, a case tumbler, and still have had about the same amount of money into it that you're looking to invest here - but a more complete suite of equipment.

I have a progressive press, I load for pistol and rife. I found my self reloading for precision. You can get very good ammo out of a progressive press, but not that precise. A powder dump is not as precise as measuring each load yourself. COAL can differ, seating depth will very, not that much but. So it is what you want out of your reloading. If you want a number of rounds similar, and much like factory ammo, and in a lot of cases still better than factory ammo. Or do you want to tinker with the loads, as many, not all, but still many who reload do.

Like Homers Bother, said a chronograph, can be a very useful tool. The way you measure your powder can make a difference in speed. Very slight variations in powder can make just enough variation in speed, to effect area of bullet impact. It all depends on want you want out of your ammo. How deep into reloading do you want to go, what will satisfy you and your needs.

Thanks for all the input. The main reason I'm getting into reloading is because the 257 Weatherby Magnum ammo is hard to find and when I do find it, it's expensive depending what you shoot. The 100 grain spitzer are relatively cheap but they do not shoot well with my gun at all. I can't see paying almost 90 bucks a box when I shoot almost 2 boxes a month. As I did a little stock a while ago on the spitzer points cause they were cheap and almost always in Stock. I need to find a different grain to shoot. I'm not sure if I want to go heavier or lighter first. I wish I could make sample packs when I buy bullets. I hunt in Florida so I know any grain bullet will be fine down here. I might try the 115-120 grain area first. I can get some 117 sst from my uncle. Which will be my first bullet that I will reload once I find some powder lol. I'll be using the original brass from Weatherby and try federal primers first and we'll see what happens. I will also be reloading 69/70 grain 223. I think a chronograph is a good point and didn't even think about it until it was mentioned. I will definitely look into them. It would be nice to know how the bullet flies and then I can make spreadsheets.

Some times a bullet that doesn't seem to shoot well in your rifle will rise and shine with a change in powder. Even primers will make a difference in some rifles.
My hunting buddy came to deer camp one year with a new to him Ruger synithic stock bolt action chambered in 25-06. He flat out stold that rifle from the original owner.

Said it shot horrible with every box of factory stuff the guy tried so he took up reloading for it with the same results.

All it took to start shooting right was a change from large rifle primers to magnum large rifle primers.

:D Al

This is why consistency in processes and materials at the baseline and load development are so critical.

When I was younger and didn't take the time to understand, I'd whip out 100 rounds at a time of a load I had no idea would work well or not (hey, they had good bullets in them, though). Generally, they didn't work well. Once I figured out I had quite a bit of slop in my processes in general, and once I started load development in earnest, I'll generally find a "sweet spot" with just about every bullet/powder/primer combination.

My last effort was with .22-250, Varget, and 50gr V-Maxes. One load grouped (two groups of five rounds - three rounds doesn't give you enough feedback) averaged just over 1.1" at 100 yards. Not going to work on Prairie Dogs at 300. But a different charge of the same powder a few rungs up the ladder turned .46". I had yet another charge that turned .51".

Consistent processes and commitment to load development will help you squeeze the most out of your reloading operations.

you can get a RCBS kit for a lot less then that one. get one that has non electric scales and case prep. equipment. should be able to get one for around $300.

For as little reloading you are talking about I'd go with a single stage press. I still use my old CH Single-Stage H press for most of my reloading. I also have a Dillon 550 progressive (I bought if after making the mistake of buying a less expensive progressive) which I use for .223 and all of my pistol cartridges. If you are going to buy a progressive...my 2 cents, buy a Dillon...buy once cry once. Otherwise, I'd stick with a single stage press for what you are talking about.

Thanks for all the input and some good info. I went with a RCBS single stage kit. Now all I have to find are primers and powder and I'll be good to go. If I find primers and powder on the web is it worth paying the hazmat fee? I can't anything anywhere and found a couple sites that have the items in stock. I'm thinking it may be worth it. But I'll have to check with my local gun stores here first and see what they can do. I have been reading IMR7828, H1000, Reloader 22+25 are good choices for the 257 weatherby. I also picked out some 115 TSX bullets to try. I forgot about a tumbler, but those are pretty easy to get. I will start building gathering stuff and make a bench this weekend. Pretty excited to start this process.

I prefer to deal with a local gun/reloading shop. Many times they will make every effort to help you get what you want. My gun shop even had a limit back when primers were hard to get so every one could get some and no one bought them all and sold them at gun shows at inflated prices.

Reloading bench for paulpers.

I ran across this looking for some thing else. I thought it may be of interest to some.

http://bghi.us/index.php?x=bench

Your right about tumblers. For years I used a little thumb rock tumbler I bought at a yard sale for 10.00. Then a few yars later I found the same brand in a double tub at a yard sale for about the same money.

Today I have a industrial one I bought at a machine shop going out of business auction for 25.00. I've had it for about 40 years now. Does a great job with rice media and a couple hours. I have tumbled 2000 cases at one time in it.





Rice kernels will some times get stuck in the flash hole but pop right out when cleaning the primer pocket.



:D Al

I was going to build a bench like that so that's a nice little guide to use. It would be nice to find something you have for sure. I don't think I'd ever do that many rounds at least for a long time. I was able to pick up some Ramshot Magnum and RL-25. I also got CCI primers.

Congrats and welcome to the club. You will enjoy how much of a new dimension reloading brings to your shooting.

Don't forget to buy yourself a notebook...you are going to need that. :)

Yeah, I plan on building a spreadsheet with all data I collect and gather. I have RL-25, Ramshot Magnum, and I'm going to pick up H1000 in a couple hours. I have 115 grain TSX to try out first. So I will probably make 10-15 of each and see what happens! Hard to find approved data other than the books. Not many have this caliber(257 weatherby) but that's not my fault! I enjoy it way too much.