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What chrony to buy?
I have an older Ohler 33 and my partner has seen me using it and used it himself. Now he wants one. he told me about a ProChrono on Amazon in both digital and regular. I told him I know nothing about these 2 but would check into it. What ya'll know or have one of these items. Thanks.
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I have a ProChrono Digital, a Shooting Chrony Alpha Master, and a Pact Mark 4 (which is a shot timer that doubles as a chronograph with accessory sky screens).
I use the prochono the most. Not sure why, I suppose because it was my first, and it's very easy to use. The company I was working for at the time let me keep it after one I completed a project, developing specialized ammunition. Been using it for 10yrs now, everything from archery at 200fps to super-speed centerfires at 4000fps. |
Originally Posted by Nomercy448
(Post 4100641)
I have a ProChrono Digital, a Shooting Chrony Alpha Master, and a Pact Mark 4 (which is a shot timer that doubles as a chronograph with accessory sky screens).
I use the prochono the most. Not sure why, I suppose because it was my first, and it's very easy to use. The company I was working for at the time let me keep it after one I completed a project, developing specialized ammunition. Been using it for 10yrs now, everything from archery at 200fps to super-speed centerfires at 4000fps. |
Don't tease him by letting him use that Oehler! :)
I picked up a Chrony Alpha years ago thinking one day I'd have enough for an Oehler. It was cheap, easy to use, parts were readily available (I've ... ah, made a couple mistakes with it), and I guess I never really thought of replacing it since. Like NM says, "not sure why." I haven't used it to check an arrow's velocity, but have used it for everything from 650 fps .177 pellets to 4200 fps .22-250s. |
"MAGNETOSPEED"
a little spendy but well worth it imop |
Originally Posted by BlackLab
(Post 4104317)
"MAGNETOSPEED"
a little spendy but well worth it imop |
Originally Posted by sixpointeightfan
(Post 4109835)
Is this the bayonet type unit that mounts on the barrel? If so I've read good reviews on them but have not used one.
:wave::wave::wave: |
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I bought the Pro ChronoDigital and it works just as good as my Oehler. Lighter as well!!! This will now be my loan-out chrono and the oehler is MINE, all mine, no one elses!!!!! LMAO!!!!! This way I won't cry as much and cause great physical harm to someone if they launch a too low round nor cost them as much to replace!!!!!
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Best
Originally Posted by BlackLab
(Post 4104317)
"MAGNETOSPEED"
a little spendy but well worth it imop MagnetoSpeed wins hands down. Fast and easy to set up. No worries about shutting down the firing line to set up. No wind worries. No light worries. None of the worries accompanied with a regular chronograph. And speeds are right there with the other two chronographs, so I have no worries about accuracy, either. It may well be a little pricey, but with 90% of the hassle of recording speeds reduced, well worth it. I now use the ProChrono only to check bullet B.C.'s (and pray for no flyers!). |
I use the CED Millennium 2. I like it, but I sure wish that Magnetospeed had been out when I was in the market. The CED does have relatively cheap replacement parts as well (ask me how I know lol)
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I have a Beta Chrony by Shooting Chrony. It works well but I wish it held more shots. It holds 60 shots - 6 strings of 10 rounds.
Whatever you decide upon be sure to get a sturdy tripod - sturdy meaning it has some weight to it. A Bogen 3001 or something comparable is an excellent choice. I see people use light-weight tripods (IE "Slik") which may be easy to carry but once any wind blows their chrony gets knocked right over (those screens are very good at catching wind!). |
How do chronographs actually work? When you put the chronograpgh 15-20 feet away from the muzzle, what information does it give? For example, does it provide 50 or 100 yard velocities? How do you figure out the energy at certain distances? I've looked at some youtube videos but I didn't find anything helpful besides setting it up and someone shooting.
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It sees the shadow of the bullet as it passes over the sensors. The first sensor turns it on, the second turns it off. It calculates the time between.
I suppose you could set up a back stop at 50 yards or what ever distance you want. But if you are off a little you could hit the chrony. Bullet Weight say 168 gr times Velocity squared say 2600 fps divided by 450395. 168x(2600x2600)/450395 168x( 6,760,000)/ 450395 1,135,680,000/450395 2521 fp of energy |
Originally Posted by JGFLHunter
(Post 4131551)
How do chronographs actually work? When you put the chronograpgh 15-20 feet away from the muzzle, what information does it give? For example, does it provide 50 or 100 yard velocities? How do you figure out the energy at certain distances? I've looked at some youtube videos but I didn't find anything helpful besides setting it up and someone shooting.
your ES, your SD, if you are close, at or above max pressure. but you have to know what to look for. I know to do what I do with a rifle, a chrony is a must have, without knowing your velocity, hitting a target at a grand is just grasping straws. a chrony can give you the info you need to set up your rifle to easily hit your mark at distances you never thought possible. RR |
what information does it give? Report the bullet speed in feet per second. If you save a group of shots ("a string") you can recall: *The string number *The highest velocity (in feet per second) shot of the string *The lowest velocity shot of the string. *The average velocity of the shots in the string *The "extreme spread" - the difference between the highest and lowest velocities *The velocity of each shot in the string. What I use this data for is: 1. Compare a string against a particular target. IE: String #2, Target #2. How is the grouping? 2. Compare the "extreme spread" of the velocities of my loads vs. factory loads. (I am happy to report that my hand loads beat factory loads. That is the velocity difference of my loads is lower than factory rounds). 3. Check the average velocity against published data - are you close to published speeds? 4. Check for pressure spikes or rounds that are consistently faster than they should be. 5. Check the consistency of your rounds - are they close in velocity? These are the things I typically use my chrony for. Others may have additional suggestions. When mounting a target to a frame I will write a target number on the target so I can correlate the target number with a string stored in the chrony - use a notepad for this. The display/controller unit of the Beta Chrony uses a 10' cable so you can place the unit next to you. When shooting you can immediately look to see the velocity of the just fired round. Some chronographs have this display unit on the chronograph. I have not used a unit such as this but I would think that would be hard to see. With my Beta Chrony I can put the display/controller unit right next to me so it is very easy to see the velocities and control the chronograph from the shooting bench. Another thing I will be using the chronograph for is load development. My 30-06 is a bit too powerful for me - guess I am recoil sensitive after all. Instead of selling the rifle for a .270 I have found a load that sends a 30-06 round at speeds similar to that of a 30-30. I think the powder is H4895. Anyway not want to completely gimp the 30-06 round I will start with the slower speed and work my way up to the point of where I begin to flinch - checking the velocities and making notes along the way. Eventually with the aid of the chronograph I will find the load that I am comfortable with. Just some thoughts. I hope they are helpful. |
your SD Thanks. |
Originally Posted by RobertSubnet
(Post 4131586)
RidgeRunner what is the standard deviation used for? That is a piece of data I am not sure how to use or what to do with.
Thanks. Small SD numbers tell you that your velocity is fairly consistent, and high SD numbers tell you that you have high variations in your velocity readings. The math behind the SD calculation is reasonably simple. The variations are squared to make all of the numbers positive, then the square root is used to bring the numbers back, and a standard (average) deviation is calculated. If this is not done the negative numbers (from the mean) offset the positive numbers making the result useless. To boil it down - small SD is good, big SD is bad. |
Small SD numbers tell you that your velocity is fairly consistent, and high SD numbers tell you that you have high variations in your velocity readings. |
Originally Posted by JGFLHunter
(Post 4131551)
For example, does it provide 50 or 100 yard velocities? How do you figure out the energy at certain distances? I've looked at some youtube videos but I didn't find anything helpful besides setting it up and someone shooting.
In the context of reloading, you shouldn't worry about collecting any of that data (or not). If you're reloading for accuracy, neither speed or energy as a single value are at all relevant. You're comparing each single data point for velocity against the other data points. What the chronograph gives you is exactly what RR and Big Uncle have already described. Consistency is the key. Extreme Spread and Standard Deviation are the metrics you should be focused on. Bottom Line: Smaller numbers in your variations are better. Think of it this way: A load with an average velocity of 2800 fps (+/- 100 fps, with a SD of 40 fps) is not as consistent as a load with an average velocity of 2800 fps (+/- 25 fps with a SD of 15 fps). Therefore, the latter has more potential for accuracy than the former. The chronograph will tell you precisely what those variations are. You can spend as much on a chronograph as you're willing to spend. The Chrony Alpha is probably the least expensive version on the market, and I've found that while it might miss capturing a shot from time-to-time, I've probably saved what it cost me in conserving time and components in the first couple years that I used it. It lacks some of the "conveniences" (remote readout, etc.) that other models might offer, but I've not found that to be much of a liability. |
You can also use ES vs. SD to determine whether your sample size is large enough. If your SD is close to your ES, either you have a bracketed set of ammo, or you haven't taken enough shots to have a relevant data set.
Occasionally, I'll stake out the chrony at different ranges (i.e. 50, 100, 200yrds etc) to validate (or disprove) the software predictions across the trajectory. Kinda a way to determine if the BC estimate on the bullet is accurate, or if the atmospheric assumptions in the calculator are accurate. Similarly, a guy can cross reference the "drop below zero" at different ranges compared to the calc predictions to validate the info. And having more range time and more data on your loads is always a good thing, right? ;) |
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