HDMontana

My wife followed through and got me a reloading kit for Christmas and building a dedicated reloading bench is now in the works. I have been doing a lot of reading on the subject and picked up the 8th edition Hornady reloading manual here locally for only $9.99 since they have released a 9th edition. I also picked up a tin of the imperial sizing wax since a lot of people seem to really like it. My question is, do you use the same wax on the inside of the neck of rifle brass? If so, how do you apply the wax to the inside and how deep does it need to be? Thank you in advance for any responses.

Pawildman

Do what RR advises. Q-tips work great for this. I also use the Imperial sizing wax, and use a Q-tip to LIGHTLY smear the outer case body and the inside of the neck as well. If you are resizing WSM or other sharp angled shoulder cases, it is imperative that you lube the inside of the neck well, or you run the risk of actually pulling the shoulder angle out of specification due to increased drag on the expander plug because of to insufficient lube when pulling the case from the die and will undoubtedly run into chambering problems with the reloaded case.

SecondChance

Hey RR and PWM, why do ya'll prefer Imp. wax over spray lube such as Horn. 1 Shot?

Pawildman

........There ya go......

HDMontana

Thank you for the responses.

RobertSubnet

HDMontana - welcome to reloading!

I have recently started reloading and I have found there can be different ways to do different tasks. When it comes to lubing cases I use ATF (automatic transmission fluid). A quick dip in ATF and enough comes off to lub the die for about 3 cases. Afterward I run all the resized cases though the tumbler with the media removing most of the oil from the cases. To help prolong the life of the media I add a dryer sheet to help absorb the tranny fluid.

Just an idea for you to consider. Again welcome to a new and enjoyable hobby.

RobertSubnet

I don't know what those are. Maybe I am but I don't know what they look like (still new to reloading). I have reloaded .223 and 30-30 using ATF and the cases looked fine after reloading and shooting.

Looking over my post the description was a little unclear. What I do is keep a small jar filled with tranny fluid. When it is time to decap/resize I dip the case in the jar of tranny fluid and proceed to decap/resize. Enough tranny fluid remains on the inside of the die and resizing pin so that I only have to dip every other or every 3rd case. I am using a single stage press so if I feel what seems to be too much resistance I back off and dip the case.

The process is kind of messy I end up having to wipe lube off of the press and resizing die/decapping pin. Also lube ends up in the reloading block. So I have a block specially set aside just for holding cases lubed and resized using the tranny fluid. Also as I mentioned previously I run the cases through the tumbler a second time to remove the tranny fluid. But you need to be careful to check each case to make sure there is no media stuck to the inside of the case.

It sounds like it is more effort than it is worth and maybe it is I am still experimenting with the process.

RobertSubnet

Thanks for the pic RR...I have in fact seen those dents when using the tranny fluid.

Pawildman

I'm wondering why in the world would you create such a messy job out of something that is so simple? Surely you are getting trans. fluid inside the case also, which is a terrible thing to happen... How do you lube the inside of the case necks, which is what this post was supposed to be about in the first place, without getting the fluid inside the case body? I also find it hard to believe you aren't getting lube dents.

my advice to you is to quit with the trans. fluid lube jobs and follow a more accepted method......

Topgun 3006

I also pictured him using the ATF and said to myself: "YUCK, what a mess that has to make!".