40 cal Glock reloading
 

Guys, I am just starting to reload the 40SW in a Glock, I have never reloaded this cal, or gun and to make matters more interesting I am going to reload with 180gr Berrys bullets.
Any advice would be most welcome.
Thx sauer06

So what is stopping you??¿

I guess what I mean is; ask a specific question or concern, then I/we could give you an answer.

I've reloaded in excess of 10,000 rounds of 40 S&W, with any of the commonly available bullets, as well as my own cast lead boolits. All shot just fine.

Sauer06:

I am not sure but I don't think you can load lead bullets because Glock handguns have polygonal riflling, and fouling will be great causing accuracy to sufffer. The warrantee will be void if Glock finds out you one uses handloads. Please check out my information I may be wrong. Good luck.

I am using Berrys bullets and I cannot find any reloading data on these bullets, they are plated so acording to this mfg I can use them in my Glock but there is no canalure on the bullets and I have never reloading for a semi auto handgun. Should I use a light roll crimp on them?

You need to taper crimp you are headspacing off the case mouth. Good luck.

Every manual for every gun made today says the warranty is void if reloads are used in it. Some of my guns have never had a factory round fired in them.

Myth about glocks and lead has been around for a long time. If the lead bullet is cast hard,(like mine), leading is non-existent. I've shot thousands of lead 175 grain boolits through my Glock M-22 without leading.

That is good to know. Thanks

You can use the same data for jacketed bullets for your plated bullets. Like any loading you should start at the lower levels and work up. I always start in the mid range to be on the safe side. I have loaded for my Glock 23 for several years and have been using plated bullets for the past few years.

The Lyman Book of Armaments (Reloading Guide) is now in it's 49th edition, and has tons of info for novice reloaders and buttloads of data for Glocks and their proprietary calibers.
Yeah, I know, .40 S&W has been around for a while.
But some things you need to watch out for are..
1. Cartridge Over All Length. Too long, rounds jam on the ramp or the slide fails to close; Too short, you get accuracy problems as the bullet tumbles into the forcing cone.
2. Pressure signs. You need to pay attention to how flat the primers are and how much the case is bulging so you don't orbit the slide. Never start below the indicated loads, work up in increments less than half-a-grain until either the guns "sweet spot" is reached, or you get pressure signs.
3. Don't be fooled into thinking you're going to use just one brand of bullet. The gun may not like 180gr Berrys, and instead, prefer XTP's.
4. Same with powder. And for that matter, cases, and primers. HP38 will probably get you started, the gun may like the burn rate of 231 better. Nosler bullets over Sierra. It might hate Winchester cases and prefer Federals..

just a few points I can think of in a few minutes...

ask questions. The guys here are pretty darn knowledgeable.

Loading for Glock 40?
 

I loaded for a model 23 for 8yrs. Berry's, Rainier, Gold Dot,and several others. My pistol preferred 165gr; shot them better than lighter or heavier, Once you find your col the loading is pretty straight forward.
GOOD LUCK and GOOD SHOOTING!!!

Loading for Glock 40?
 

Sorry, as soon as I closed out I had another thought. My powder of choice was Alliant Unique. At www.alliantpowder.com the recommended load for 165 Gold Dot is 7.2gr. I found my accuracy node somewhat short of that. Look at your manuals and the powder web sites, choose your powder, cut back a grain or so , and work up in .3gr increments to find your accuracy node.
GOOD LUCK and GOOD SHOOTING!!!