What I wish I knew when I got started....
 

Hello all. I am planning on getting started in reloading. I have been reading just about everything I can find and watching YouTube videos.

There is a lot to learn.

I shoot about 100 - 150 rounds per month. And plan on getting an RCBS master supreme, a case tumbler and carbide dies for

38/357
45 acp
223
30-30
30-06

Is there anything in particular I should know before getting started? Is there any advice you would be willing to pass on to someone getting started?

Thank you for any advice or suggestions.

Read everything you can get your hands on!
 

I have a 7th edition Hornady reloading manual that covers virtually every question you will have plus the ABC'S of reloading along with a illustrated glossary in the back of the book to help you develope a vocabulary that will enable you to understand the how to along with the items you will need to start. Before you do anything buy a new up to date reloading manual (I used the Hornady as an example only, there are others) and read it before starting. Better yet It would help to have at least two recent reloading manuals to have two sources. This usually is a self taught hobby with very few sources to refer to, further these books encourage you to follow the steps (with no short cuts or leave anything out). If you follow the instructions you probably will develope good loading procedures to ensure nothing bad happens. Most of the old timers (I include myself in this comment) didn't have a mentor nor anyone else they could help a newbie work thru a problem, we had to figure it out ourself. If you do your part it will be a very rewarding hobby with a good chance you will develope friendships along the way. Good luck!! William

I'd have to agree, this is quite often a "self-taught" skillset. Your reloading manual will provide you most of what you need in the way of knowledge to get started, provided you read through it and gain an understanding of what you're about to do BEFORE you rush out and make a mistake.

As far as procedures in your manuals go, they're usually pretty consistent from volume to volume. Where you'll see the most difference between volumes is in the actual load data, particularly as new propellants become available and old ones are retired.

The package you referenced is the updated version of what I bought almost 25 years ago and still use a good portion of today. It should serve you quite well. Don't forget the shellholders! Two low-cost adds I'd also make immediately are a baffle for your powder measure and a set of check weights for your scale.

And once you have some rounds under your belt, don't be discouraged if you find that your reloaded ammo doesn't quite perform the way you'd expected, most often reflected in accuracy. While load development does involve some experimentation, you're also somewhat limited by some gaps in your RCBS package, most notably in the area of case preparation. Consistency is something you should strive for in your reloads. I still recall my first batch of reloaded, mismatched R-P and W-W cases, stoked with what the manual said was the maximum load for IMR4350 in a .243. My shotguns throw a tighter pattern.

Here are a list of tools I wish I'd have purchased sooner, in the order I'd buy them (after the RCBS package) if I were starting over:

1. A chronograph. I used to extrapolate to get an idea what my loads would achieve velocity-wise. Having a chronograph showed me how inconsistent my loads actually were, through statistical analysis of things like "extreme spread" and "standard deviation." In turn, those numbers led me down the road to discover the real importance of case length and neck concentricity (and where case preparation really pays off).

2. A vernier caliper and a case trimmer.

3. A Stony Point/Hornady Overall Length (OAL) gauge and comparator set. Assuming that your .30-30 is of the lever-action variety, You'd probably want the curved version of the OAL gauge, which will also work in autos, pumps, and bolt guns. This simple little setup will tell you quite a bit about your specific firearm and then allow you to accurately and consistently seat bullets to within whatever tolerance you set from your firearm's rifling.

4. A concentricity gauge. I've used a Forster for a few years, got my hands on the new Hornady version that allows you to "correct" run-out and improve individual cartridge concentricity, but it's still in the box. Can't recommend it one way or another - yet.

5. An exterior ballistics program can also be a handy tool, especially if you record trajectories for longer-range rifle shooting.

There are lots of cool tools otherwise, fancy digital scales and powder dispensers. As much as I do like mine, I could get by without them provided I have all of the tools listed above. Other than to the basic procedures, which are different because of the straight-wall cases, pistol ammunition tends not to require so much attention to detail. After time, your cases may need a trim so that they'll function reliably in an auto pistol. Otherwise, pistol reloading is pretty simple.

There are no carbide dies for bottleneck cartridges, but for straightwall only.

I started out on 44 mag. But both straightwalled and bottleneck have thier own challenges.

I say dive in.

I didnt include any of this when price shopping, and i was at $600, and over $800 with what i wanted. can ya add up what all your stuff would cost buying it new today. Be cool to see what everyone else would come up with as well...
as for the op.. http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/relo...ead-first.html

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions.

I highly recommend the Lyman #49 Reloading manual.
You're making a wise decision by going with RCBS.
It's all I use and they have great customer service if anything ever breaks.
No questions asked, they just send the part.

I was seriously considering the Lee. But looking over the Amazon reviews, a number of people said that the powder dispenser (sorry I do not know the correct term) spilled powder. And apparently it spilled more than just a little. Every review I have read about RCBS has been favorable. I also believe that you get what you pay for. I plan on taking a trip to Cabelas, hopefully they will have both units available to try on the floor. But I think my mind is made up, RCBS.

Oh geez, I'm not sure I'd even be able to guess. I think I spent something along the line of $300 on the basic Rockchucker package in about 1988, which back then didn't include the hand primer. So, at today's prices it's probably somewhere in the $500-$600 range? I've expanded by inventory of calibers since then, so add another $300-$400 for dies, plus another $90 for carbide dies, $180 for the last batch of competition dies. Most of the rest of my stuff's been added in the last 10 years. The very basic chronograph I'm using (a Chrony Alpha) is still running about $100. Caliper ran me about $40, I probably have somewhere in the neighborhood of $130 into the Stoney Point/Hornady OAL and Comparator. I think about $70 for the case trimmer. $70 more for the original concentricity gauge I've been using, add another $100 for the new concentricity gauge. I've also added a second Rockchucker press to the bench at $150, as well as a Pro 2000 progressive for about $550. Tumbler at about $75, one of the new sonic cleaners (another test) for $90. The RCBS combination electronic scale/powder dispenser for about $300.

So, in the end, I'm probably looking at having spent somewhere between $2800-$3000 on various tools and equipment, and I'm praying tonight that my wife never reads this!:confused0024:

Come on you've been here since 05 , over a thousand posts , you can't tell me none of your friends reload, that is the best place to start, after you read everything you can get your hands on.Get with someone that reloads ,watch learn, then try out their equipment,you will make your own opinions soon. Better to make your choices after you decide which you like instead of buying what is suggested , and finding out later you would rather have something else.
Alex

I haven't found a powder measure YET that I like. They'll probably all do fine with ball or flake powder, but (JMO) you need a trickler and a scale if you're going to throw charges of extruded powder. My RCBS uniflow varies by as much as 0.3 grains with H4350 and Varget (my mainstay powders). That's significant.

I was able to knock that down a bit with the baffle, but when using the Uniflow, I nearly always throw short intentionally now and trickle the rest of the charge.

I love my RCBS Powder Measure with RCBS Micrometer installed.
I rarely have to use a trickler.
The micrometer makes the thing accurate.
I was having to use a trickler on almost all rounds loaded before I installed the micrometer and now I can load rifle and RARELY have to use one.
I highly recommend it.

You can certainly start with a good qualiity non- digital scale. I used one for years, and treated properly they never wear out. Digital speeds things up, but I have never found they are more accurate. Calipers are essential for checking case lengths. which stretch after each shot. Especially for semi auto rounds, this is crucial.
I would start with the .38/.357 round. It is a strait wall case which is very easy and forgiving to reload, not to mention that the cases are cheaper than rifle rounds for the inevitable screw ups while adjusting the dies.
The cleaner your cases are when sizing and reloading, the more consistent and easier your loading quality will be. There are inexpensive washes you can use which work fine, but a tumbler is easier when you can afford one: just be sure to clean the cases, regardless. I have many hunting friends, but none of them load anylonger. You can certainly self teach, just follow and stick to the safety guidelines: you also are less liikely to pick up the teachers bad habits.

Simplify!

You don't need to try 400 different powders and bullet combos and wear out your rifle trying to find the best load. Unless you want to.

Try to find powders that will work in more than one caliber.

For example. Varget, or H4895, or IMR8202 will work in the .223, the .30-30, and and in the .30-06. There will be a powder that will work in both the .45 acp and the .38 special. The .357 might need its own, if you want full power loads. This way you can avoid the mess I have created. I have probably 15+ partial cans of different kinds of powder, never enough of each kind to work up a good load. I can try some loads, and then I run out of either the bullets or the powder. So buy larger quantities of fewer components, especially if you already know your gun likes a certain bullet.

The best part about this is you can buy powder cheaper in 8lb jugs, and therefore you will not be switching lots or running out as often. The bad part is there always seems to be a new powder you will want to try.

Don't try to chase an extra 25 fps. Neither you nor your target will know the difference.

EXACTLY!! Couldn't agree more. (That's why I used ball powders only and a Redding powder measure with a baffle for it).

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shoot...3Bcat104661180

Buy the micrometer for the RCBS Uniflow and you won't regret it.
I can set that thing to throw dead on measures with Tightgroup, Universal, Varget and 4831