Originally Posted by 7MMXBOLT (Post 3743398)

I took another look at the pic of the brass and to me it looks just like what happens when you push the shoulder back to far.

Try this when setting up your FL sizer die;

Use one piece of brass for the initial setup.

If you have a tool that accurately measures your shoulder bump take that measurement first. If not you might want to look at this tool.

www.larrywillis.com

Install the die in your press per the instructions that came with the die and back it out another 1/2 turn. Lightly lube the body of the brass and run it up into the press and inspect the neck with a good magnifying grass. You should be able to see how much of the neck is being sized "stop ring" which should be somewhere around half way down the neck. Keep adjusting the die "downward" in small increments until the neck is being sized to the point "before" where the neck just meets the shoulder. Take another measurement of the shoulder and the brass should have grown a little. Make another adjustment to your die and take another measurement and keep making adjustments until your only bumping the shoulder back .001 - .002 and no further. Each time you run the brass into the die check to make sure you have enough lube on the brass so not to get it stuck in the die.

This should end your problem.

Bumping the shoulder back too far would also have an effect on your neck tension. If you don't have any or minimal resistant on the case neck running over the sizer button this is a big hint your not sizing properly. When the die is set up correctly, you should have a fair amount of resistance. To minimize this you could lube the inside of the neck though I feel it is not neccesary if the inside of the neck is cleaned properly. I use a brass bore brush on my RCBS case prep station. I also wrap "000" steel wool around the brush so it fits tighter in the neck. This will clean the powder residue from inside of the neck and the brass will size like if it were brand new brass. There is a stainless steel media tumbler made that will do as good of a job. I plan to buy one after the holidays because the whole unit will cost $265 but I've heard it is the last brass tumbler I will ever need to buy. The media will last forever!

http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/

Good luck!

Originally Posted by Pawildman (Post 3743464)

.... I totally disagree with not lubing the inside of the case neck!! If 7mmxbolt chooses not to do it with his, fine... but I'm firmly convinced that is NOT a good idea. RCBS explains this with the instructions included with a set of their dies. One of my previous posts explains why.

Originally Posted by 7MMXBOLT (Post 3743510)

I ask you, when sizing new brass do you still feel there is a need to lube the inside of the neck? It has been my experience that the more you shoot and reload brass the more work hardened it becomes especially the case neck. Yes, it can pull the shoulder foreward if there is too much resistance however this is normally due to the build up of powder residue not being cleaned out. Also, from the brass being work hardened which annealing will take care of in most cases. You can also take a piece of emery cloth and and take down the sizer button a little to over come the resistance. Using a carbide sizer button will eleminate the need to lube or ordering a undersized sizer button will help as well. Lubing the case neck to me is more work than it's worth and can be avoided.

Originally Posted by 7MMXBOLT (Post 3743483)

First of all “sir”, I am not stating this gage will control neck tension. It is used to "ACCURATELY" measure your shoulder bump back...please read what I posted a couple of times so you clearly understand!!!!!!

If you have never used this tool before you should keep your comments to yourself, as you obviously have no clue what you're talking about. You certainly "can not" push the shoulder back as far as you want to without damaging the case, any experienced reloader knows this!!!!

The Stoniepoint gage your eluding to is useless for getting an accurate measurement and yes, if you do push the shoulder back too far it does have an effect on the tension to some degree, as the die will bottom out on the neck.

Second of all, most dies have a expander button that is .002 oversized to account for spring back so that isn't new news!!!


There is nothing I hate more than people who feel the need to be arrogant with their comments to make themselves look good. Every time I post something, you have this need to contradict what I suggest. I have probably been reloading longer than you have been alive.

Why don't you find someone else to attack?

Originally Posted by bigcountry (Post 3743593)

Not if you want low runout. Any experienced loader knows this. But you don't. Imagine that.

Originally Posted by bigcountry (Post 3743597)

All I can say is, you give out some pisspoor advise. I am wondering if you just started this game.

First one that was amusing when you suggested the larry willis die for belted brass. This advise right here showed all we need to know about you. That con man has taken a lot of people's money for that one.

I tell you what. Go to accurate reloading and type in if larry willis collet resizing die for belted magnums is needed. It will be fun to watch.

Originally Posted by 7MMXBOLT (Post 3743611)

If you actually read what I posted, I said and I quote " I don't shoot my magnums enough so I never saw the need to buy one" Meaning, I never owned one but I do know of others who have and were told they worked as advertized.You have to understand that everyone has their own opinion and yours and mine are no different.

These forums all have their "EXPERTS" or so they think, that no matter what anyone say's their way is the best. Your one of them! So get off your high horse and start acting like an adult.

Your a freaking joke kid!