Reloading basics
 

I have a question for you reloaders, I have been reloading for about 10 years. I reload a couple of hundred or so rounds a year of 30, and 243 cal. lately I have been unemployed for over a year and have been getting into reloading more and more and the more I study the more I realize that there is way more into this than I thought.I have recently bought more reloading manuals and a RCBS powdler trickler and a chronograph to go with the RCBS reloading system that I already have. The person that taught me how to reload was and is an a very good reloader, and the first batch of 30.06 reloads we first did Win760, Hornady150-165 BTSP interlock Win Mag primers shot 1-1.2to 1-1.5 groups all day long and I used them for years hunting white tails. I have done many web searches on this subject and I have had success and failures with regard to accuracy.What I want to know is other that basic safety what are the most important aspects of reloading accuracy? I :sign0016: know this is a very open question but all responses will be treated with respect.
Thx for all of you help.
Doug Olwin

IMO, consistancy and records keeping.

Consistency on the chrono. Followed by consistency on the target. Those are the only two things that really matter (if you aren't exceeding safe pressure). You might get the first without the second, if the round doesn't work for the specific rifle...in which case, change the load for the rifle.

The charts you will find will all vary for expected velocity for the powder weight. There are times when the best powder for a specific chambering won't work with a specific rifle (such as a shortened barrel, strange twist, or such).

I'd just say, don't push things too much for velocity. Look at the charts, try to match rounds to the rifle, and just find a comfortable ground.

howler nailed it IMO...im new to reloading but was taught from a bench rest shooter that demands accuracy...

overall, consistency period will lead to consistently tight groups..

starting with the brass...i think he calls his process of brass handling "match grade brass"

weight sorting to within a grain right out of the bag when buying bulk rem, win, etc...or checking good brass like nosler, lapua, norma etc...

trimming to spec and not varying...chamfer and deburr the mouth..deburr the flash hole, uniforming the primer pocket, etc...

its a bit of a process..but without consistent brass, your not going to get consistent groups...some might look great but then you'll have unexplained flyers you call shooter error that could been prevented..

then consistent charges, and consistent seating depth with a bullet comparator that measures off the ogive not off the tip as tips vary and good bullet makers wont let their ogives differ...

do you need to treat a typical big game hunting rifle like that if your shooting a few hundred yards tops??? i dont think so...

but, i do...just because i enjoy the process and tight groups make me happy...i dont need to shoot a fly off a deers back at 100yds..but i like to know that if i miss that fly, it wont be by much...

within my first 100rds of loading, ive fired multiple sub-moa groups at 100yds with a remington 7600 PUMP GUN! thats right..pump gun...you know..the ones alot of guys believe arent accurate at all....

ive only shot 1 powder and bullet combo...just worked up through the powder range and shot groups and picked the tightest one...been playing with seating depth some but it got too warm and i called it good enough till next winter...

im also going to sell all my 35 whelen brass and buy nosler 3006 brass and resize it to whelen...do i need to?? heck no...but i didnt weight sort and wish i did and its too late now..and i got the whelen brass cheap..i'll likely break even or make money on it..dont think i'll loose much unless i wanna move it fast..i just have unexplained flyers and im sure its brass...like i said, not needed...but, thats me..i like accuracy...just like shooting my bow..i dont need to split arrows at 20yds...but it makes me smile knowing i can...i also dont need to shoot groups at 50-70yds..but i do just becasue i can and it shrinks my 20-40yd shootin...also dont need the sight setup i shoot for hunting etc etc...but thats me..just like my rifles...

and, when it comes time to load for my varmint rigs, i'll be familiar with the process of consistent handloading...

it makes me smile knowing i have a 35 whelen pump gun that shoots sub-moa...most guys cant honestly say their bolt actions shoot sub-moa unless they hand load or got lucky and got a factory load that the rifle really likes...

Reloading
 

Be sure to weigh every powder charge takes longer but will be more precise. Ridgerunner knows what he's talking about. Good luck be safe wghuffman

It comes down to trial and error. Try different things to see how your loads perform, once you have a load that your satisfied with then the consistency comes into play to keep it that way.