40s&w
03-23-2010, 06:51 PM
#51
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,421
I have 3 different plinking loads that I do and the gun loves them all.
The Sierra 135gr HPs I do up with Tightgroup powder would never shoot in a Glock due to high pressure numbers.
Only reason I do up a 135gr HP load is I have a family member at Sierra that gives them to me by the bucket.
I mainly shoot a 165 FMJ Berry with Universal or TG powder.
03-24-2010, 05:52 AM
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
[quote=halfbakedi420;3600582]
For instance with my 9mm 92FS or my 1911 colt, I will shoot brass until it cracks at the neck. They have fully supported chambers. I know that if brass gets weak at the rim, its going to hit chamber walls first. But with glock, there is a 2-3mm portion that it has no wall to hit, and only can blow out.
But my 40S&W glock, or 45ACP glock, I will not go that far. I will segargate brass by firings and keep close taps with a mics the width at the rim. If I see any hint of bulge, they get tossed.
Honestly, I never was aware of glock KB's 5-7 years ago. I shot full tilt 357sig and 40S&W loads in my glocks with range brass I picked up. I never had an issue, but looking back I feel lucky. Some of my loads were hot. As you found, it only takes one weak piece and you can ruin your hand, you mag, and your frame.
Bottom line is, you have an unsupported part of the case. Thats means, load at your own risk. i load starting loads with my G21 and use +P starline brass. For months, I took notes with a micrometer measuring any expansion. I am sure I could go more.
But I decided to nip it in the bud and just get a bar sto bar match barrel. That way I can shoot until the brass cracks if I want.[/QUOTE
well thats what happened when it exploded in my hand, the brass had cracked and i had to pull it out with needle nose pliers. to me that was too late. so whats the most, rule of thumb if u will, ya want to use the brass?
But I decided to nip it in the bud and just get a bar sto bar match barrel. That way I can shoot until the brass cracks if I want.[/QUOTE
well thats what happened when it exploded in my hand, the brass had cracked and i had to pull it out with needle nose pliers. to me that was too late. so whats the most, rule of thumb if u will, ya want to use the brass?
But my 40S&W glock, or 45ACP glock, I will not go that far. I will segargate brass by firings and keep close taps with a mics the width at the rim. If I see any hint of bulge, they get tossed.
Honestly, I never was aware of glock KB's 5-7 years ago. I shot full tilt 357sig and 40S&W loads in my glocks with range brass I picked up. I never had an issue, but looking back I feel lucky. Some of my loads were hot. As you found, it only takes one weak piece and you can ruin your hand, you mag, and your frame.
03-24-2010, 08:28 AM
#53
Typical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 588
Bigcounty / Spanial
I'll jump right in to the conversation about aftermarket barrels. I just bought a Lonewolf barrel for my G23. I have not started reloading for it yet but plan too soon and that was the reason for purchasing it. I just got it yesterday so I have not fired it yet. The fit and finish is excellent. If it shoots as good, I will be very happy. So far I have only chambered some A zoom snap caps through it and they chamber without a problem.
Here is a picture so you can see the difference in chamber support. The Lonewolf's chamber is definitely a lot tighter.
I'll jump right in to the conversation about aftermarket barrels. I just bought a Lonewolf barrel for my G23. I have not started reloading for it yet but plan too soon and that was the reason for purchasing it. I just got it yesterday so I have not fired it yet. The fit and finish is excellent. If it shoots as good, I will be very happy. So far I have only chambered some A zoom snap caps through it and they chamber without a problem.
Here is a picture so you can see the difference in chamber support. The Lonewolf's chamber is definitely a lot tighter.
03-24-2010, 09:33 AM
#55
Fork Horn
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 267
I have a Lone Wolf barrel for my G32 to make it a .40 cal. Fit and finish are perfect and it shoots more to POA than my stock .357 sig barrel does. Not a bad option when considering the cost of the .357 sig rounds.
03-24-2010, 03:41 PM
#56
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: central and east texas
Posts: 4,894
i was gonna get the sig barrel fer my 40...but i have put it off cause size aint much of a difference.what would be the benefit fer gettin that barrel.
03-24-2010, 05:00 PM
#57
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location:
Posts: 1,408
Cajun,
Thanks so much for the pictures, I had never seen the comparison before. Like BC I'm surprised that there is still that amount of case that looks unsupported. I wonder how that compares to a 1911 design or something.
Thanks so much for the pictures, I had never seen the comparison before. Like BC I'm surprised that there is still that amount of case that looks unsupported. I wonder how that compares to a 1911 design or something.
03-24-2010, 07:40 PM
#58
Typical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 588
There is a very noticeable difference in chamber size by wiggling the cartridge around on both barrels. The Lonewolf has a lot tighter chamber.
03-24-2010, 07:47 PM
#59
Typical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 588
Your welcome! I wasn't sure exactly how much difference to expect. I don't have anything else to compare it to. I had a M&P40C that was close to the Lonewolf barrel but since It's gone now, I can't compare side by side. I'm hoping to go test some 3006 rounds Saturday so if I get to go, I'll test out the barrel and compare brass fired from both barrels. I'll post some measurements from both here.
