new to reloading
01-31-2010, 01:50 PM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: West NE
Posts: 1,455
First off I'd take a look at the sticky at the top of the reloading threads. I'll do this write-up as a walkthrough so you know what I do and what I use.
Anybody should start off with a single stage press..reloading kits help you get a good deal of what you will need in one package. Let's pretend you're reloading for your bolt action 30-06: you've shot the rounds and have all this dull, ugly brass. First thing I do is decap the brass. Now I can clean and trim the brass. I use a Lee cutter and lock stud with a case length piece for a cheap way to trim brass down (followed by deburring the case mouth). I also use the lock stud in a drill to clean the brass with Scotch-brite pads. It sucks but I don't have a tumbler
(get one if you can). Some guys just wipe their brass off for the next load--but I prefer to clean it.
Your press-ram needs to have a shellholder made to fit your cartridge. Install your sizing die in the press by manufacturer directions. Lubricate all of your cases with case lube, then run them all through the sizing die. After sizing I wipe the brass off...not necessary but I do.
Now I hope you can get your hands on a Lee (or other) priming tool. Prime your brass and now you're ready to put in powder and a bullet. We'll start by checking our manual to see what powder charge to use for our combo (of course we are starting low, and not jumping right to the max load..make sure you've used the right primer size). Now you can adjust your volumetric powder measure by throwing powder charges and weighing them. After I set my powder measure, I charge about 10 cases and then check it again by weighing the charge...just to make sure nothing has changed. Some guys will weigh every charge for the most consistency.
Ohkay, the case is primed and charged, now ready for a bullet. Install your bullet seater die and back off the seater plug. Place a sized, primed, charged case in the press and set a bullet on the case mouth--then raise the ram to seat the bullet. Now use a caliper to measure the cartridge overall length (COL). Slowly adjust the die seater plug and reseat the bullet until you have the length you want.
Finish seating bullets...and that's it.
Brands: I really think that RCBS is about as good as you can get. Their stuff is warrantied and they will replace parts that break. But it's a little more expensive than Lee. There are other brands like Hornady, Lyman, Redding etc...but RCBS and Lee are probably used the most for the average guy. I use Lee for the little stuff, but anytime a Lee part breaks or wears out, I'm replacing it with RCBS because of the quality difference. Lee will load great ammunition, but if something breaks you'll have to pay to get it fixed. That's why when it comes to presses and dies, go Green. They're the tools that go through the most abuse in reloading, and it's worth it to get solid equipment. JMO. I've loaded lots of ammo with only Lee, but like I said, Green is replacing it with time.
Anybody should start off with a single stage press..reloading kits help you get a good deal of what you will need in one package. Let's pretend you're reloading for your bolt action 30-06: you've shot the rounds and have all this dull, ugly brass. First thing I do is decap the brass. Now I can clean and trim the brass. I use a Lee cutter and lock stud with a case length piece for a cheap way to trim brass down (followed by deburring the case mouth). I also use the lock stud in a drill to clean the brass with Scotch-brite pads. It sucks but I don't have a tumbler
(get one if you can). Some guys just wipe their brass off for the next load--but I prefer to clean it. Your press-ram needs to have a shellholder made to fit your cartridge. Install your sizing die in the press by manufacturer directions. Lubricate all of your cases with case lube, then run them all through the sizing die. After sizing I wipe the brass off...not necessary but I do.
Now I hope you can get your hands on a Lee (or other) priming tool. Prime your brass and now you're ready to put in powder and a bullet. We'll start by checking our manual to see what powder charge to use for our combo (of course we are starting low, and not jumping right to the max load..make sure you've used the right primer size). Now you can adjust your volumetric powder measure by throwing powder charges and weighing them. After I set my powder measure, I charge about 10 cases and then check it again by weighing the charge...just to make sure nothing has changed. Some guys will weigh every charge for the most consistency.
Ohkay, the case is primed and charged, now ready for a bullet. Install your bullet seater die and back off the seater plug. Place a sized, primed, charged case in the press and set a bullet on the case mouth--then raise the ram to seat the bullet. Now use a caliper to measure the cartridge overall length (COL). Slowly adjust the die seater plug and reseat the bullet until you have the length you want.
Finish seating bullets...and that's it.
Brands: I really think that RCBS is about as good as you can get. Their stuff is warrantied and they will replace parts that break. But it's a little more expensive than Lee. There are other brands like Hornady, Lyman, Redding etc...but RCBS and Lee are probably used the most for the average guy. I use Lee for the little stuff, but anytime a Lee part breaks or wears out, I'm replacing it with RCBS because of the quality difference. Lee will load great ammunition, but if something breaks you'll have to pay to get it fixed
. That's why when it comes to presses and dies, go Green. They're the tools that go through the most abuse in reloading, and it's worth it to get solid equipment. JMO. I've loaded lots of ammo with only Lee, but like I said, Green is replacing it with time.
01-31-2010, 07:10 PM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: WY
Posts: 2,056
I know guys who use other brands, but I don't think you can go wrong with the latest version of the RCBS "Rockchucker" kit. Midway's running it for right around $300 now. It includes the press itself, a 5.0.5 beam scale, UniFlow powder measure, case lube pad, case deburring tool, priming tool, loading block, funnel, loading manual (Speer #14) and hex-head wrenches.
As has already been mentioned, you'll also need a set of dies specific to the caliber(s) you're loading, as well as the matching shellholder.
Sum total cost at this point is probably going to be right around $350. If you have additional funds to spare, I'd recommend a powder trickler ($40) first, followed by a case tumbler as your next additions (anywhere from $40 to $100), then a case trimmer (The time-tested Forster starts at around $60, more expensive units run into the mid $100s) along with a caliper ($20-$40). Check weights for your scale will run you about $15, but give you peace of mind. Beyond this, you're really looking more at "luxury" than "necessity".
Because resizing causes cases to stretch, I don't advocate trimming prior to resizing. You'll get to do it twice that way. Nor am I an advocate of the mandrel-type Lee hand case trimmers (painfully slow) or any of the trim dies (I don't like filings in my press). Where I always make the most impact reloading is painstaking case preparation.
A visual inspection of your cases is always the first step. No sense attempting to salvage a case with a split neck or other serious, non-cosmetic defect.
I then decap and resize in the same operation. I use spray-on case lube now, rather than the gooey stuff that goes on the lube pads.
Next, the cases go to the trimmer. I find that even brand-new, unfired brass is often inconsistent in regard to case length. Here, you'll also "feel" splits in your case necks. Trimming is always followed by deburring. I measure each and every case when it comes out of the trimmer, with a goal of +/- 0.001"
That complete, I put the cases in the tumbler, not so much to make them pretty but to remove case lube and other "gunk" that can accumulate on the cases through the above operations. I don't want that crud in my rifles and pistols, either. Tumbling is followed by my final case inspection. Head separations and other problems will clearly show once your brass is clean.
Priming is the next operation, best done with a tool such as the Lee or RCBS, which have a better "feel" than the on-press priming tools. Make sure you seat primers to the same depth in each empty case.
The directions in your loading manual will tell you not to start your loads at the listed maximums. I used to disregard that advice as a matter of routine. No longer - I more often than not find myself developing loads starting just above the listed minimums. In any case, use your beam scale to dial in your powder measure. Set your powder measure to throw charges just a couple tenths of a grain light. While the charge is sitting in the pan of your scale, bring it up to specification with the powder trickler.
Almost done. Seat the bullet. Seat each bullet to the same depth. Check OAL with your caliper from time to time.
Now is where you can spend more money. Reloading without a chronograph (anywhere from $100 to $300) is like driving at night without your headlights on. You're going somewhere, but you may not exactly know where. Not only does a chronograph allow you to check the most common performance indicator (velocity), it allows you to troubleshoot your loads.
It was my chronograph that first highlighted to me potential "sloppiness" in my loading procedures. I started with a load for .223 that "wow"ed me in terms of velocity, but after shooting some factory loads and comparing them, my loads were faster, but the standard deviation and extreme spread was out of the park in comparison. Oh, and I might also mention that my load grouped about 1.5", versus about .75" for the factory loads. By tightening up my attention to detail and processes, that load's come down in velocity just a shade, but the standard deviation and extreme spreads are now below those of the factory loads. Group size is also down - three rounds at 0.185" center-to-center.
You don't need that kind of accuracy for most hunting applications, though. I'd been reloading for over 20 years before I bought a chronograph.
Fortunately, most reloading manuals provide you with step-by-step instructions. Read them. Read them each time you set up your reloading operation after some time off, just to refresh yourself and get your head into the game. Once you start slinging powder, no distractions. Turn off the cell phone, TV, etc.
Reloading, given the proper equipment and a bit of patience, is a great way to experience the next level of hunting/shooting. You won't save much money, considering the initial outlay, but you won't find yourself dependent upon some store clerk to have ordered enough of what ammo you prefer hunting with ever again...
Enjoy!
As has already been mentioned, you'll also need a set of dies specific to the caliber(s) you're loading, as well as the matching shellholder.
Sum total cost at this point is probably going to be right around $350. If you have additional funds to spare, I'd recommend a powder trickler ($40) first, followed by a case tumbler as your next additions (anywhere from $40 to $100), then a case trimmer (The time-tested Forster starts at around $60, more expensive units run into the mid $100s) along with a caliper ($20-$40). Check weights for your scale will run you about $15, but give you peace of mind. Beyond this, you're really looking more at "luxury" than "necessity".
Because resizing causes cases to stretch, I don't advocate trimming prior to resizing. You'll get to do it twice that way. Nor am I an advocate of the mandrel-type Lee hand case trimmers (painfully slow) or any of the trim dies (I don't like filings in my press). Where I always make the most impact reloading is painstaking case preparation.
A visual inspection of your cases is always the first step. No sense attempting to salvage a case with a split neck or other serious, non-cosmetic defect.
I then decap and resize in the same operation. I use spray-on case lube now, rather than the gooey stuff that goes on the lube pads.
Next, the cases go to the trimmer. I find that even brand-new, unfired brass is often inconsistent in regard to case length. Here, you'll also "feel" splits in your case necks. Trimming is always followed by deburring. I measure each and every case when it comes out of the trimmer, with a goal of +/- 0.001"
That complete, I put the cases in the tumbler, not so much to make them pretty but to remove case lube and other "gunk" that can accumulate on the cases through the above operations. I don't want that crud in my rifles and pistols, either. Tumbling is followed by my final case inspection. Head separations and other problems will clearly show once your brass is clean.
Priming is the next operation, best done with a tool such as the Lee or RCBS, which have a better "feel" than the on-press priming tools. Make sure you seat primers to the same depth in each empty case.
The directions in your loading manual will tell you not to start your loads at the listed maximums. I used to disregard that advice as a matter of routine. No longer - I more often than not find myself developing loads starting just above the listed minimums. In any case, use your beam scale to dial in your powder measure. Set your powder measure to throw charges just a couple tenths of a grain light. While the charge is sitting in the pan of your scale, bring it up to specification with the powder trickler.
Almost done. Seat the bullet. Seat each bullet to the same depth. Check OAL with your caliper from time to time.
Now is where you can spend more money. Reloading without a chronograph (anywhere from $100 to $300) is like driving at night without your headlights on. You're going somewhere, but you may not exactly know where. Not only does a chronograph allow you to check the most common performance indicator (velocity), it allows you to troubleshoot your loads.
It was my chronograph that first highlighted to me potential "sloppiness" in my loading procedures. I started with a load for .223 that "wow"ed me in terms of velocity, but after shooting some factory loads and comparing them, my loads were faster, but the standard deviation and extreme spread was out of the park in comparison. Oh, and I might also mention that my load grouped about 1.5", versus about .75" for the factory loads. By tightening up my attention to detail and processes, that load's come down in velocity just a shade, but the standard deviation and extreme spreads are now below those of the factory loads. Group size is also down - three rounds at 0.185" center-to-center.
You don't need that kind of accuracy for most hunting applications, though. I'd been reloading for over 20 years before I bought a chronograph.
Fortunately, most reloading manuals provide you with step-by-step instructions. Read them. Read them each time you set up your reloading operation after some time off, just to refresh yourself and get your head into the game. Once you start slinging powder, no distractions. Turn off the cell phone, TV, etc.
Reloading, given the proper equipment and a bit of patience, is a great way to experience the next level of hunting/shooting. You won't save much money, considering the initial outlay, but you won't find yourself dependent upon some store clerk to have ordered enough of what ammo you prefer hunting with ever again...
Enjoy!
02-01-2010, 03:58 PM
#5
Fork Horn
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tug Hill NY
Posts: 420
Getting back to your actual question, If you want to buy new equipment, Cabelas offers several starter kits that give you pretty much everything you need. My only suggestion is that an electronic scale greatly speeds things up. I agree with others who say pick a single stage press for starters. The RCBS junior is perfectly adequate, but the Rockchucker gives more leverage and allows to expand to a multi stage down the road. Pick just one cartridge to learn your stuff on (preferably not a tricky one like 9mm handgun). I have bought alot of stuff online (ebay) at a great savings, but you really want to know what you are doing to go that route. To save the most, try to buy quantity. The bulk packages from Remington and Winchester for projectiles save alot, and the components are fine quantity for the everyday shooter. Lyman and Speer both have great books on reloading. Dont rush it, dont smoke or drink ANY alcohol while doing it, and trust ONLY the reloading guide starting out. It is a very safe pastime if you use common sense. If you shoot alot, you can save alot of money.
02-03-2010, 04:47 PM
#7
Spike
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Arizona
Posts: 77
You can't go wrong with the RCBS Rockchucker starter set. This will get you going and set you up with good equipment. I would highly suggest the Lee hand priming tool though, I know people who have had issues with the RCBS hand primer. Welcome to your new addiction!
02-06-2010, 06:16 AM
#9
Spike
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2
Start out with a single stage press. Any experienced reloader will tell you single stage first, then move to progressive or turret presses. Reason being, is you need to learn every aspect and stage of loading a single loaded round.