Is there a difference in bullets?
 

I'm new to reloading and just purchased a press after Christmas. My question is, is there a big difference in which bullets to use. I'm going with the Hodgen Hybird 100V powder. I will be loading for a.270. According to Hodgen's load chart. They say to use in a 130 GR bullet either a Barnes TSX or a Hornaday SP. Would I need to use strictly a Barnes TSX or could I use a Barnes TSX-BT? Could I subsitute a Sierra or a Hornaday in a 130 GR-BT? Does one make a big difference over the other? I rarely shoot a deer over 100 yrds.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Guns are individuals when it comes to ammo. Your particular gun may or may not like a particular brand of bullet You will usually find out what it wants to shoot best by trying several different brands/types. Same with powders. What shoots well in one person's gun may not shoot worth a hoot in yours. That's why we reload..... to get the best possible combination that shoots great in your particular rifle.

I hope this doesn't sound like a stupid question. So as long as I stay within the starting load and the maximum load for the type of powder I'm using and the 130 GR bullet which I intend to use, I will be ok to experiment with different bullets like BT, SP, HP, etc, and the different brand of bullets to see which one's work best in my gun?

Always start low and work up slowly. Get an actual reloading manual (not just an abbreviated chart, but the actual hardcover book) and READ IT. It'll tell you what you need to know to safely handload. Pay extra close attention to the part about "pressure signs."

Mike

Are the books published every year? I was at Gander Mtn the other day looking at the one's they had, but none of them had any listing for the Hodgon Hybird 100v powder. I know the Hybird 100v hasn't been out that long. I've had trouble finding very many loads for this powder.

Hybrid 100V is probably not in the current manual. They publish a new manual every few years. Usually when they introduce a new powder doesn't make it into the published manual, they'll both post the data on their website and make an addendum available that can be added to the hardcopy you already have. The reason I mentioned getting the manual is to have the other information that's published in all load manual, not just the raw data itself. A good manual will have several chapters in the front of the book covering safe step-by-step handloading techniques, do's and don'ts, reading pressure signs, how to tell a good cartridge case from one that is about to fail, and tips and tricks to making good ammo. If you're new to handloading, you should buy at least one load manual.

Mike

I'll do that, thanks. What book would you recommend?

For general information, I like the Hornady Manual the best. I also have a Speer Manual that came with my RockChucker kit that I hardly use for data (because I don't use Speer bullets, and the load data is, for the most part, very mild compared to all other sources), but the general info section is pretty good.

Mike

To answer your actual question. Some manufacturers will tell you not to do this. They want you to the recipes exactly as they tell you. Some bullet manufacturers list data for bullet weights, and tell you it is OK for different types. Sierra does this.

You can do it, but make sure you start with the starting load anytime you change anything.

Be especially careful switching types of bullets. For example. If you use a Barnes X bullet with Ballistic Tip Data. The Ballistic tip has a soft lead core. The barnes X doesn't, and also has a longer bearing surface. The barnes X may show pressure signs quicker. Triples shocks are more forgiving than the old Barnes X.

Certain types of bullets seem to hit max a lot quicker. A good example is the discontinued Winchester Failsafe. Winchester always listed data separately for it, and it always maxed out maybe 150 fps slower than other bullets of the same weight.

If you use moly coated bullets, you may need to actually increase the charge to obtain the same pressure and velocity as naked bullets.

To answer answer you question: The starting load should be OK, but the max load may not be the same if you switch bullet types. Edit: Or brand of bullet, primer, case, etc.

Learn to detect signs of overpressure.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice.