Getting a little 4350 in a can of 4064 probably wouldn't hurt much- I would mark the can as 'plinking ammo only' and use it for slightly reduced loads just to be safe though. I did something similar a few years ago with 3031 and 4064- I couldn't remember what I had left in the powder measure a few days before but knew it was either 3031 or 4064 and ended up setting it aside and using 3031 load data for making plinking loads.

There's very good reason for not mixing powders even if you end up with a slower powder mixed in- the pressure of the powder and burn rate are connected- not sure how a slower powder might react if it were in a cartridge where the pressure spikes much faster than the slower powder would burning on its own. For this reason alone, I would reduce the loads out of that can of powder below your maximum worked up loads.

IMO, Big Country is correct. You can still use that can of IMR 4064. Since the H4350 is much slower, the only possible effect would be to drop the MV of your "4064" loads, and probably not even that.

IF the powder that contaminated the 4064 had been a faster one, such as IMR 3031 or faster, then I would trash the contaminated can. But chances are that very little 4350 got into the 4064, so I believe most of your can of 4064 will perform as it should....

Yes, we are cautioned never to mix powders. But I believe this caution wasmeant more for those who might be tempted to mix a littlerBullseye in with 2400 in a handgun load, in a misguided attempt to up the MV a little...

Hey eld, I have head rumors of folks firing off 500 nitros and such by adding some bullseye. I figured they were crazy. Ever heard that?

I've heard of people using bullseye to help ignite big loads, not that I'd reccommend it with today's better powder technology.

I've heard of Elmer Keith experimenting with duplex loads a lot. He sacrificed a lot of handguns in his pursuit of knowledge though too.

It was quite common many years ago... even triplex loads were used. I don't know how many handguns, if any Keith blew up, but i do know that many who DID know what they were talking about, didn't thinkKeith was too bright. P.O. Ackley was one of them.

I bet alot of nice SAA's are gone over this.

Today, I bet it wouldn't expensive for a guy to rig up a pressure barrel and some pressure inducers before blowing up a handgun or rilfe.

Only if I had more time on my hands.

Not as regards the 500 Nitro, but I do know that some of the original loads for the.454 Casull used 2400 and Bullseye in Duplex loads, and even Unique, 2400, and Bullsete as a triplex load. However the powders were not mixed, but loaded in "increments", held in place by the next type of powder, and finally, by the bullet-(cases were full, of course... ) here, I'm talking about Dick Casull and hios work with the cartridge now bearing his name. I am not aware of Elmer Keith's work with duplex or triplex loads. He didn't include info on such experiements in his book SIXGUNS, IIRC.

I do know that he abandoned use of the Colt SAA in .45 COLT because the chamber walls were too thin, and started working with the .44 Special instead. I do remember him writing about blowing the loading gfate off of a SAA with a BP load in .45 Colt. But I think he was using baloon-head cases when that happened.

I am interested in reloading, never done it before , don't know where to start. I want to be able to reload ammo for .410 shotgun, .243 and 8mm mauser. I am specifically interested in reloading 8mm Ballistic tips. Is there a preferred manual for the beginning reloader? What would you estimate the approx. cost of equipment needed to reload these 3 different rounds?I have enough brass and shells to get started. What manufacturer is considered to be the most reliable? What type of powder seems to be preferred for consistency and accuracy for the .243 and 8mm? I appreciate any help that will get me started in the right direction.

WElcome to the reloading world...you're gonna love it. First off, I don't know of any press that will load shotgun and rifle shells both. Someone on here correct me if I am wrong...I believe you will have to buy two individual and distinctly different types of loaders.
One of the very first things you will need is a good updated loading manual. Most all bullet and powder manufacturers offer them, but they are generally confined to the manufacturer's product for specs. I highly recommend getting the latest issue of the Lyman Reloading Handbook. I have the 48th edition, but I think I just saw where the 49th was issued. No matter, for your purposes, the 48th will serve fine. It is quite comprehensive in it's explaination of the reloading process, and gives detailed explaination of all the facets and reasons why. Really a great source book, and something no reloader should be without, in my opinion. It defines the process, and explains what additional equipment you will need.
At the top of the Reloading Forum, you will find a topic..."New to reloading? Read this first". An excellent breakdown of the essential items compiled by members of this forum, put together by mossy33oak.
As I said before, manuals published by product manufacturers are generic to their own brands for the most part. Hornady manuals will give loading specs for Hornady bullets, Nosler manuals for Nosler bullets, etc. Lyman gives specs for a wider range of applications, but does not cover them all, and you may find yourself needing specific info from brand-specific manuals too. Once you look at a couple of loading manuals, you will understand this better.
As far as brands and prices of loading presses, the door is wide open, and opinions vary greatly here. Personally, I load shotshells with a MEC press, and for the most part, use an RCBS Rockchucker press for rifle/handgun loading. I would advise you to buy equipment somewhere in the mid-range price spread until you see if you really like this stuff and may want to upgrade at a later date. I will say that nearly all of the better-known brand names are generally very well made, and should last for many years.
As far as cost goes, that's apretty wide-open area. Get some catalogs from such places as Midway, Midsouth, or any of the many other companies who specialize in this and get an idea of what you want. Powder, bullets, primers, cases, etc. can usually be bought at a local sporting goods store in your area that handles reloading supplies. The bigger catalog suppliers carry these items too, but you generally will pay shipping and other charges.
There are plenty of people on this forum who will be glad to help you with specific questions you will have. Don't be afraid to ask.
Hope this gave you some general insight into what you were looking for. Once again, I will say...get a GOOD loading manual very first thing......

Thank you for your help.
I mainly became interested b/c I havea late WWI German Mauser 98 small ring that was sporterized in Germany after the war(set trigger, machined barrel and handcrafted stock). Not worth a whole lot despite being in great shapebut I love to shoot it and I am limited in different types of 8mm rds. I am going to Alaska next year for Grizzly and have considered reloading the 8mm with ballistic tips. I know what this round is capable of using core lokt ammo and after seeing the difference between core lokt .243 and ballistic tip. I am confident this 8mm Ballisticwill do the job on a Grizz. As far as the .243, I want to load an accurate flat shooting round for coyotes without doing alot of overkill. The Winchester Silvertip Ballistics outperformed every other ammunition I have tried but even for a .243 the damage is excessive. I want the same accuracy but withoutblowing the shoulder clear off the coyote. Once again, Thanks alot for the advice, I will pick up the Lyman Reloading Handbook and start reading.