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Does primer and brass matter?
I'm scouring the net looking for loads for my 7MM Remington Magnum and have noticed that some loads only list bullet, powder, and charge. Does the brand of brass and primer matter or are they interchangeable based on the shooters preferences?
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
Each brand and size of primer can affect a load differently and cna result in higher or lower pressures so you have to work up a load from the beginning anytime you change primers.
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
It does matter! in that the thickness of the brass is different which gives a different internal capacity these small changes can effect the pressure generated and the velocity of the bullet. the primers do the same thing. reloading is an art of consistancy, so if you mix brass, primers, or other components you will not have good groups and could result in a dangerous load if you don't work up from a starting load when trying a different component.
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
I'm not planning on mixing them. I'm wanting to try a 162 gr. hornady/H1000 combo, but it doesn't list what brass/primer to use. I'm trying to figure out what ones would work.
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
For primers, I definately prefer WLRM's. They give the most consistant and hottest flame of them all. As to the problem of brass, keep it all the same, whether you choose Winchester, Federal, Remington, Sako, or whatever. Different manufacturers have different internal capacities. This, in turn creates different pressures upon firing, which will affect accuracy. Seating depth also will affect accuracy and pressure. The mixing of brass is more critical in small capacity cases than the big bores, but the problem still is there. If possible, get all of your brass with the same lot number, and enjoy your reloading.
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
Been loading for my 7 mm mag for over 20 years and this is what I found out was best for my gun. (each gun is different so you will have to experiment) Federal primers. remington brass, IMR 4350 (max load is 63 gr.), and 150 gr. Sierra gameking BT or Noslar partition 150 gr. I've tried the H1000 but got more consistant groups with the 4350. I've also used 4831 with good results. I find the the Federal primers burn a hotter than the winchester. I also like to shoot the bullets with the boat tail design. they seem to group better.
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
not nearly as much as gun and shooter.............
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
I think primers don't make as much difference. Brass weight however I think makes a difference. Winchester brass is thicker and therefore holds less powder/water etc than rem or fed brass. This will raise pressures more so than a primer, unless of course you are going from a normal to a magnum primer.
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
I guess a better way to word my question would be if a load calls for hornady brass, could you use winchester or remington? Same thing with primers. If it calls for one, could you use another?
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
I guess a better way to word my question would be if a load calls for hornady brass, could you use winchester or remington? Same thing with primers. If it calls for one, could you use another? You could get into trouble substituting cases, expecially with heavy loads of powder. I do not re-load for the 7mm Remington Magnum and do knowtheweights of the various brands of cases. Before substituting brands of cases, weigh them first. Let's say that you worked up a heavyload for a thinner (lighter) case. That same quantity of powdercan cause pressure to go up dramaticallyif itisused in a thicker (heavier) case. Isometimes substitute primers in my lighter loads but not in the heavy loads. |
RE: Does primer and brass matter?
Bear with me, I'm just getting into reloading. Thanks for the help! What are signs of too much pressure?
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
primers flattening, sticky bolt/action after firing, gun blowing up in your face, etc.
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
There's a few here that could tell you reading Pressure Sign is tricky......
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
Are powder weights pretty much standard for bullet weights? For example, a 150 gr. nosler and a 150 gr. barnes. Would you use roughtly the same grains of powder?
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RE: Does primer and brass matter?
A Barnes TSX, TTSX, and MRXare going to operate at a lower pressure and have a higher velocity due to the reduced bearing surface of the bands...so it will tolerate a higher powder charge.
A nosler, having much more bearing surface, will generate a higher pressure due to it's typical construction. Never assume that powder weights will cross match with other bullets without first doing a work up. When in doubt, always play the Safety Card.... |
RE: Does primer and brass matter?
ORIGINAL: Rifle Loony A Barnes TSX, TTSX, and MRXare going to operate at a lower pressure and have a higher velocity due to the reduced bearing surface of the bands...so it will tolerate a higher powder charge. A nosler, having much more bearing surface, will generate a higher pressure due to it's typical construction. Never assume that powder weights will cross match with other bullets without first doing a work up. When in doubt, always play the Safety Card.... I dare you to try 97gr of H1000 with a barnes 180gr TSX in a 300RUM. I know I will with a 180gr nosler accubond or partition. Even barnes, the cowboy's of reloading will tell you "no way". A TSX actually has more bearing surface than a nosler partion due to its all copper construction which makes it longer, hence its higher BC. A MRX is a different story. I load Triple shocks in 8 guns and know better. |
RE: Does primer and brass matter?
Taken from the Barnes website, FAQ's....
http://www.barnesbullets.com/information/bullet-talk/faq/ "What is the Triple-Shock X Bullet and what does it do? Barnes’ Triple-Shock X Bullet offers all the deadly effectiveness of the time-proven X Bullet. Features include all-copper construction, no fragmentation, rapid expansion, 28% deeper penetration than lead-core bullets, and maximum weight retention. The TSX has proven to be one of the most accurate hunting bullets available–a fact countless shooters have confirmed. An exclusive feature of the Triple-Shock X Bullet is multiple, precisely engineered rings cut into the bullet shank. These grooved rings act as relief valves as bullet metal flows under pressure while traveling down the bore. Instead of flowing from the front to the base of the bullet, the copper material expands into the grooves. This results in reduced pressures and less copper fouling. Reduced pressures mean the bullet can be safely loaded to higher velocities. The rings also alter barrel harmonics, greatly improving accuracy." Of course you would have to have a firm grasp on the physics to understand the concept,and it's been well documented that you don't/can't........ |
RE: Does primer and brass matter?
Actually, since I'm not a velocity ho, the advantage I see to using TSX's is the ability to use LESS powder to achieve the normal velocity I seek. Or, using a fuller case of slower powder to achieve a normal velocity...which leads to the load densities I prefer. In either case, the lower working pressure of the loadwith no loss of velocity is the benifit.
But you are an Expert,I'm sure you know better........... |
RE: Does primer and brass matter?
ORIGINAL: Rifle Loony Taken from the Barnes website, FAQ's.... http://www.barnesbullets.com/information/bullet-talk/faq/ "What is the Triple-Shock X Bullet and what does it do? Barnes’ Triple-Shock X Bullet offers all the deadly effectiveness of the time-proven X Bullet. Features include all-copper construction, no fragmentation, rapid expansion, 28% deeper penetration than lead-core bullets, and maximum weight retention. The TSX has proven to be one of the most accurate hunting bullets available–a fact countless shooters have confirmed. An exclusive feature of the Triple-Shock X Bullet is multiple, precisely engineered rings cut into the bullet shank. These grooved rings act as relief valves as bullet metal flows under pressure while traveling down the bore. Instead of flowing from the front to the base of the bullet, the copper material expands into the grooves. This results in reduced pressures and less copper fouling. Reduced pressures mean the bullet can be safely loaded to higher velocities. The rings also alter barrel harmonics, greatly improving accuracy." Of course you would have to have a firm grasp on the physics to understand the concept,and it's been well documented that you don't/can't........ They are talking about reduced pressures compared to thier X. Anytime your ready, I dare you to match my max loads I achieve with sierra, or nosler bullets. Your only 4 hours away. |
RE: Does primer and brass matter?
ORIGINAL: Rifle Loony But you are an Expert,I'm sure you know better........... Or better yet, lets see if you can match my max velocity. What caliber? 308win, 270, 300RUM,7mmSTW, 7mm08. I am sure I can find a gun you have to do the test. Those loads listed in the barnes manuals under max are max. They are 60KPSI in most calibers. So how is your physics different from mine? |
RE: Does primer and brass matter?
You got the bigger gun, you got the better load...and your dad can probably beat up my dad.
You're an internet punk with an ego, and that's all there is to you.....proved by the 3rd grade challenges you think will prove something. You probably have a utility bill for all your needs, and have to "plan" your hunting around your Life. I see your lap dog is waiting in the background, for the scraps....... |
RE: Does primer and brass matter?
ORIGINAL: Rifle Loony You got the bigger gun, you got the better load...and your dad can probably beat up my dad. You're an internet punk with an ego, and that's all there is to you.....proved by the 3rd grade challenges you think will prove something. You probably have a utility bill for all your needs, and have to "plan" your hunting around your Life. I see your lap dog is waiting in the background, for the scraps....... No doubt, barnes has came up with a winner with thier TSX for very large game. I don't like them on MD 130lb deer unless I hit this quartering to me and in the shoulder. But its the bullet I am taking elk hunting. Well, I have too, because CA won't allow lead. And they have made leap and bounds improvement over the X with the newer TSX. |
RE: Does primer and brass matter?
It's your pile on the new guy attitude that get's you the sarcasm in spades, and with mods so quick on the trigger, am surprised you've lasted so long....
I don't claim to be an expert on anything, but am a fan of results and tend to lean that way, and fairlyhard. Funny how you and your owner are quick to run me out oftown for keying in opinion on the www...... A little territorial are we..? |
RE: Does primer and brass matter?
Laughable that you skipped right over my Safety Advice to the questioner and went right to your Big Gun as proof you are right....about something.
Far better than me can be summoned via a single posted link on the wwwand you'll have all the argument your ego can suffer. Better quick get that "ban 'em" PM in the mail, before somebody pees on your post...........pun there. |
RE: Does primer and brass matter?
your not a new guy wilds. You have been here, and been very rude to more than just me and paid the price for it. Its just clear what you know and what you don't know.
I won't call you names. I am here willing to meet you, and shoot together, but you are calling an internet punk. Name calling is not mature behavior. Is it? |
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