Brass?
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Rivesville, WV
Posts: 3,192
RE: Brass?
Guys this is just like a discussion between a Tasco scope and a Swarovski. Will the Tasco do the job, yes. But which do you want on the rifle. I have used WW, Rem, Fed, Starline, Lapua, Norma, PMC, Lake City, And a couple others. If you want:
1. Most consistent weight
2. Most Concentric bodies, and necks
3. Neck alignment to case
4. Consistent neck wall thickness
5. Least amount of cases in the second and third SD of all above
6. Most consistent volumes
Lapua is first, Norma is second, Lake City match is third, WW is fourth, then throw in the rest.
Lapua brass runs around $.68 and WW runs around $.28-If you throw out the caes that are in the 2nd & 3rd SD for the above listed, then I would guess the WW goes up to about around $.35. So you pay around $.33 a casing more for the better brass. Sorry, but that does not sound like much to me. Let's be honest how many people really order more than 100 or possibly 200 cases at a time. Most people only order 20 or 40.
The question is what is your goal. The major difference is in the necks, and the weight. In my opinion all brass out of the bag-except Lapua have to be neck turned out of the bag, or at least trimmed up. With Lapua I can order a neck bushing(consistently) for my die, and I am off. CASES ARE THE LEAST AMOUNT OF MONEY YOU CAN SPEND, TO ACHIEVE THE GREATEST AMOUNT OF ACCURACY INCREASE. Bullets are second, but man there is a big price discrepancy there. Tom.
1. Most consistent weight
2. Most Concentric bodies, and necks
3. Neck alignment to case
4. Consistent neck wall thickness
5. Least amount of cases in the second and third SD of all above
6. Most consistent volumes
Lapua is first, Norma is second, Lake City match is third, WW is fourth, then throw in the rest.
Lapua brass runs around $.68 and WW runs around $.28-If you throw out the caes that are in the 2nd & 3rd SD for the above listed, then I would guess the WW goes up to about around $.35. So you pay around $.33 a casing more for the better brass. Sorry, but that does not sound like much to me. Let's be honest how many people really order more than 100 or possibly 200 cases at a time. Most people only order 20 or 40.
The question is what is your goal. The major difference is in the necks, and the weight. In my opinion all brass out of the bag-except Lapua have to be neck turned out of the bag, or at least trimmed up. With Lapua I can order a neck bushing(consistently) for my die, and I am off. CASES ARE THE LEAST AMOUNT OF MONEY YOU CAN SPEND, TO ACHIEVE THE GREATEST AMOUNT OF ACCURACY INCREASE. Bullets are second, but man there is a big price discrepancy there. Tom.
#12
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Western OK
Posts: 856
RE: Brass?
When i buy casesthey arealways Winchester. Use a lot of range pickup cases of nearly all brands. i weigh my .30-06 cases wheni want a reallyheavy or accurateload: Winchester casesare almost always lighter than other brands and i can stuff a little more IMR 3031 into them and still be safe.Winchester cases and primers have worked well for me.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location:
Posts: 1,813
RE: Brass?
"Is Norma brass worth the extra cash?"
No. And I have had no problems at all with either WW or R-P cases.
No. And I have had no problems at all with either WW or R-P cases.
I've had good luck with Rem./Win./Fed. brass, and i like RWS brass too....
I wouldn't pay more for any brass unless i was bench rest shooting as my Win./Rem./Fed. brass will shoot 1/2" and better groups in my guns that will shoot that well... The other exceptions is for cal's like my 9.3x74R double that gets RWS because Rem./Win./Fed. doesn't make it in that cartridge...
DM
#16
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location:
Posts: 53
RE: Brass?
Mossy,
[/align]
[/align]A lot of that "war zone" look you see when you get your Remington brass is more than likely due to the fact that their brass is softer overall, and quite possibly their final finish tumbling practice's are little rough, considering this.
[/align]
[/align]I don't have any real gripes about Winchester brass, but as a few notes were made regarding cracked case mouths and such, "been there, seen that".
[/align]Asfar as other issues regarding misshapenpieces, etc., I've seen lots come through regarding both brands that contained these.
[/align]Most of it can be easily remedied.I've switched to Remington's because their brass, being softer, lasts longer, and for me in my trials, has given better accuracy, meaning theinside dimensions are more consistent.
[/align]
[/align]Winchester is just harder than Remington for the most part, and in this case (to a realistic point) softer is better. Too soft and you'll get wrinkles and oil dents very easily. Too hard and you'll get case neck splits and primer pocket troubles early on.
[/align]
[/align]Possibly Winchester skips an annealing process somewhere along the line that they feel isn't necessary. Don't know....[/align][/align]As far as Norma and Lapua brass......due to their exorbitant cost, I might use them if I was shooting competition matches and the like, but for the average shooter/hunter/reloader, I highly doubt you'll ever see the difference. If it's a consideration, buy the Remington's and sort your brass by weight. You'll still be cheaper ahead.[/align][/align]
[/align]Take care,
[/align]Bob
[/align]
[/align]
[/align]A lot of that "war zone" look you see when you get your Remington brass is more than likely due to the fact that their brass is softer overall, and quite possibly their final finish tumbling practice's are little rough, considering this.
[/align]
[/align]I don't have any real gripes about Winchester brass, but as a few notes were made regarding cracked case mouths and such, "been there, seen that".
[/align]Asfar as other issues regarding misshapenpieces, etc., I've seen lots come through regarding both brands that contained these.
[/align]Most of it can be easily remedied.I've switched to Remington's because their brass, being softer, lasts longer, and for me in my trials, has given better accuracy, meaning theinside dimensions are more consistent.
[/align]
[/align]Winchester is just harder than Remington for the most part, and in this case (to a realistic point) softer is better. Too soft and you'll get wrinkles and oil dents very easily. Too hard and you'll get case neck splits and primer pocket troubles early on.
[/align]
[/align]Possibly Winchester skips an annealing process somewhere along the line that they feel isn't necessary. Don't know....[/align][/align]As far as Norma and Lapua brass......due to their exorbitant cost, I might use them if I was shooting competition matches and the like, but for the average shooter/hunter/reloader, I highly doubt you'll ever see the difference. If it's a consideration, buy the Remington's and sort your brass by weight. You'll still be cheaper ahead.[/align][/align]
[/align]Take care,
[/align]Bob
[/align]
#17
RE: Brass?
ORIGINAL: DM
I agree... I never thought of Norma brass being all that good, especially in the Weatherby versions....
I've had good luck with Rem./Win./Fed. brass, and i like RWS brass too....
I wouldn't pay more for any brass unless i was bench rest shooting as my Win./Rem./Fed. brass will shoot 1/2" and better groups in my guns that will shoot that well... The other exceptions is for cal's like my 9.3x74R double that gets RWS because Rem./Win./Fed. doesn't make it in that cartridge...
DM
"Is Norma brass worth the extra cash?"
No. And I have had no problems at all with either WW or R-P cases.
No. And I have had no problems at all with either WW or R-P cases.
I've had good luck with Rem./Win./Fed. brass, and i like RWS brass too....
I wouldn't pay more for any brass unless i was bench rest shooting as my Win./Rem./Fed. brass will shoot 1/2" and better groups in my guns that will shoot that well... The other exceptions is for cal's like my 9.3x74R double that gets RWS because Rem./Win./Fed. doesn't make it in that cartridge...
DM
I use RWS 7X65R cases to make 8X60 RS brass. It is great brass!
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