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harrell 10-17-2006 12:22 PM

? new brass
 
recently purchased some new brass was wondering what steps some of you use on new brass. do any of you just load them and shoot them and then go through the normal steps for the second loading. thanks.

bigcountry 10-17-2006 12:29 PM

RE: ? new brass
 

ORIGINAL: harrell

recently purchased some new brass was wondering what steps some of you use on new brass. do any of you just load them and shoot them and then go through the normal steps for the second loading. thanks.
Depends. If its good brass like starline or Norma, I will load and seat. Crap brass like remington and winchester, where the neck requires sizing or it won't hold a bullet or dented up necks, or whatever, I FL size, then trim, then deburr.

What you might find is some pieces hold a bullet fine, and others won't.

trailer 10-17-2006 01:51 PM

RE: ? new brass
 
All I’ve been able to get lately is Remington brass so I neck size, trim, deburr and do the flash hole on the inside...

mossy33oak 10-17-2006 02:46 PM

RE: ? new brass
 

ORIGINAL: trailer

All I’ve been able to get lately is Remington brass so I neck size, trim, deburr and do the flash hole on the inside...
yeah cant say too much good about Rem brass, I always resize them. Their quality or shipping department must be crap because half the stuff in the bag is dented and in need of resizing.

trailer 10-17-2006 06:04 PM

RE: ? new brass
 


ORIGINAL: mossy33oak

Their quality or shipping department must be crap because half the stuff in the bag is dented and in need of resizing.
Yeah, and all this time I thought I was buying new brass...

harrell 10-17-2006 06:21 PM

RE: ? new brass
 
my new brass is winchester so i will necksize and go from there. thanks for the information

[email protected] 10-17-2006 07:13 PM

RE: ? new brass
 
I tend to use Lapua or Winchester. I check length and full length size the first time and also randomly weigh samples just to see what I've bought. The Lapua tends to be very high quality, and the Win varies from pretty good to poor. The last time I tried Remington it was so bad I chunked it under my bench into my maybe never bin.

handloader1 10-17-2006 11:02 PM

RE: ? new brass
 
The reason Remington brass is dinged up is after the brass is totally worked, they put them in a giant tumbler. Good luck.

bigcountry 10-18-2006 06:28 AM

RE: ? new brass
 

ORIGINAL: handloader1

The reason Remington brass is dinged up is after the brass is totally worked, they put them in a giant tumbler. Good luck.
Well, thats not what they claim. They push it off on shipping and vendors storage.. I have never dinged up brass in a tumbler.

trailer 10-18-2006 07:13 AM

RE: ? new brass
 


ORIGINAL: bigcountry

I have never dinged up brass in a tumbler.
With or without media. It will make a difference and also the type of tumbler. We have a tumbler at work for removing sharp edges and on some metal parts and the brass has the same type of markings as the finished product from our tumbler...

bigcountry 10-18-2006 08:30 AM

RE: ? new brass
 

ORIGINAL: trailer


ORIGINAL: bigcountry

I have never dinged up brass in a tumbler.
With or without media. It will make a difference and also the type of tumbler. We have a tumbler at work for removing sharp edges and on some metal parts and the brass has the same type of markings as the finished product from our tumbler...
You got me there trailer, Never heard of anyone tumbling anything in your typical home run of the mill brass tumbler wiithout media. In fact, I haven't seen a tumbler meant for polishing, without media. But thats me.

trailer 10-18-2006 09:05 AM

RE: ? new brass
 


ORIGINAL: bigcountry

In fact, I haven't seen a tumbler meant for polishing, without media.
Not for polishing , just removing sharp edges, but the run can’t be forgotten or the items will get beat up pretty good...

SST 10-18-2006 10:31 AM

RE: ? new brass
 
It really depends what I'm shooting. If I'm loading up for my 20BR, I'm starting with Lapua brass. The flash holes are drilled and the primer pockets are already very uniform, so after the cases have been run through a series of forming dies and an ironing die, I just trim to uniform length, chamfer, load and shoot. For my 300WinMag, I full length resize the new brass, trim to uniform length and chamfer, uniform primer pockets, deburr flash holes, sort into weight groups, and load. For my 7-08AI, I use Winchester .308 brass necked down to .284 a little at a time until I get a crush fit (cases tend to last longer than starting with 7-08 brass), deburr flash holes, uniform primer pockets, trim to uniform length and chamfer, neck turn just enough to remove the high spots, and sort in weight groups, and load. While a deer shot with a cartridge with a case prepped this way will not be any more dead, I believe that my custom rifles deserve custom ammo. I've spent too much on the rifles to not be particular with my handloads. Besides, I enjoy reloading.

You really don't have to be as anal as I am when reloading, but it is generally a good idea to deburr the flash holes. Sometimes there is a genuine brass trap door interfering with primer ignition. Deburring flash holes needs to be done only once, and it tends to eliminate that occasional unexplained "flier."

[email protected] 10-18-2006 07:32 PM

RE: ? new brass
 
That doesn't explain the rediculos weight variation and length difference, no tumbler can cause that! This is just piss poor QC, and nothing else. As long as shooters continue to buy this crap it will not improve. We all know Remington is capable of far better quality!

Rammer 10-19-2006 02:23 PM

RE: ? new brass
 
I've been buying new Remington brass lately and found it to be in lots better shape that Winchester brass (I order all my stuff from Midway USA).

I always neck size if the brass is in good shape, and if its dinged up a bit I will full length size, debur, an trim if necessary.

jblossom 10-21-2006 07:57 PM

RE: ? new brass
 
Depends on how much time you are willing to devote to your case prep.
I would highly recommend a good book for your leasurely reading, "Handloading for Competition" by Glen Zediker.
I have been reloading since 1961, and thought that I was fairly will inforned as to handloading.
After reading his book, I implemented some of his steps from various chapters.
I found that you can make "crappy" Winchester brass into some very accurate and good hunting loads if you willing to put in the time and effort.
I have shot an .270 Win. for 45 years, and have never experienced results like I got after reading the book.
I chronograph all my loads, and the difference was well worth the time.

Load results: S.D. = 6; Extreme Spread = 14; Grouped @ .708" @ 100 yds.; 2965 FPS; Hornady 140 gn Interlock w/58.2 gn H4831SC, CCI-200.

Old data was: S.D. = 22; E.S. = 57; Grouped 1.534" @ 100 yds.; 2993 FPS; same bullet, primer, 57.9 gn 4831SC

Good luck, and good shooting

skeeter 7MM 10-22-2006 12:19 AM

RE: ? new brass
 
FL size, trim, deburr anddo the flash hole. Like trailer RP Brass based on availablity.

DM 10-23-2006 10:17 AM

RE: ? new brass
 
I don't resize new brass, i DO run the expander ball through the neck and back out to "true up" the necks. I then (most times) chamfer the necks and load...

You can "feel" if the expander ball hits a "loose" one that would need sizeing, but it rarely happens to me...

I "rarely" crimp rifle cases (other than straight walled cases) so i don't bother to trim new cases before the first fireing.

I've had very good service out of Rem. and Win. brass, but i haven't bought any lately either... I've always found Norma brass too soft for my likeing, same with Wby. brass, but i haven't boughtthose lately either.

DM

shepdogwv 10-23-2006 02:43 PM

RE: ? new brass
 
What's the big difference between full sizing and neck sizing? I mean, except the obvious, how much more time does one take than the other, and how big of a difference does it make? Any special tools?

bigcountry 10-23-2006 03:26 PM

RE: ? new brass
 

ORIGINAL: shepdogwv

What's the big difference between full sizing and neck sizing? I mean, except the obvious, how much more time does one take than the other, and how big of a difference does it make? Any special tools?
Well, you got two different dies. One that only sizes neck, and one that sizes neck, shoulders and body. Thats about it. You don't have to lube neck sized brass. Which is a time saver. You have to only shoot neck sized brass in the gun fireformed in. Drawback. Also neck sizing alot can knock neck runout (concentricity) out. Only tools are the dies.

The way DM does it is really best. Neck size, fireform, and then you got a piece of brass to work with.

Rootsy 10-24-2006 09:42 AM

RE: ? new brass
 
i figure that if i have a rifle with a custom barrel, blueprinted action, bedded and pillared stock, tuned trigger, etc i should extend the same courtasy to my reloadign components... Though i do NOT shoot any match stuff really i go through a fairly lengthy and time consuming not to mention, tiring procedure with each bag of new brass... figure if i am going to do it might as well do it once right from the get go and then not have to worry about it later cept trimming if it gets too long and neck sizing to reload... so each new bag of rifle brass... manufacturer doesn't matter, caliber doesn't matter, etc.... i full length resize, trim to length, chamfer inside and outside of mouth, chamfer inside of flash hole and ream to size and i size the primer pocket and depth of pocket.... i then weigh each piece of brass and unless soemthing is grossly wrong it all gets put into cases ready for loading... basically my own little QC dept... yes some of my friends think i am anal at times:eek:


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