Reloading questions
 

I am new here. I just found this site. I used to frequent the BO forums but I think they folded. Any way I have been reloading for a while now but most of what I know I have read from various sources. I reload for my Rem 700's in 223 and 22-250 and a pair of XP-100's in the same calibers. How in depth do most of you go? How much variance in overall cartridge length is O.K.? Do you measure bullet length and weight and if so How much variance? Do you weigh finished loads and if so how much is O.K.? How about brass length? Do you use minimum or max length and do you weigh them? Again, how much variance? Sorry for so many questions at once, but I have become addicted to accuracy and I like to tinker!

For reference I use a rockchucker press, RCBS digital scale and dispenser, and RCBS Competition dies with built in Mic. Thanks for any help.

RE: Reloading questions
 

Hey there. I also load both of those calibers. I make sure I always use the same headstamp if I am going for groups. I always size all the cases, clean and polish them, trim to just .010" under max length. If I had a gun that would shoot under .50" I might weigh the cases but most bullets nowadays are really made well and dont very much. Good luck with you loading. Jovan

RE: Reloading questions
 

I do everything to my cases, but square the heads at this time. I don't go with S.A.A.M.I C.O.L.; I measurechamber length with Stoney Point Gauges. I don't weigh finished loads; I wouldif Ithought I made a powder charge mistake. I trim my brass every time I load to mininum length. Good luck.

RE: Reloading questions
 

I trim all my cases with the Lee cutter and lockstud tool, this is very easy and quick. The only time I use my RCBS trimmer is when I load Cast Performance 440gr LBT bullets in my 45-70, I must shorten the cases .060 before they will chamber in my Marlin 1895. I like this bullet well enough to justify the extra work. But the Lee system is fool proof and consistent. I sometimes will turn case necks, but I'm still not sure how much it helps. Cartrige oal is a variable that affects some rifles more than others, I usually seat my bullets just short of the rifling and all is well. The most important thing I can do is use quality components. Most of the time the tightest groups will arrive before maximum pressure does. when the gun and load are tweeked ,you still must do your part,a good concrete bench and a solid rest are important.

RE: Reloading questions
 

On my varmint rifles I uniform primer pockets and deburr the flash hole. I also sort brass by mfg. I do check the brass length but rarely sort cases by weight.
I also keep brass seperate for each rifle/pistol meaning I have a XP-100 and a Rem 700 both in 221 Fireball. The brass that is used for the handgun never gets used in the rifle

RE: Reloading questions
 

You should always use the same headstamp when developing loads as well.A load that is safe in one manufacturers brass can produce dangerously high pressure with another manufacturers brass.

RE: Reloading questions
 

* I fire brass once and then neck size and trim all to exact same length.
* I weigh and sort bullets into .1 grn differencegoups
* I weigh out every powdercharge to be exactly the same.
* For each 3 or 5 shot group I load bullets of exactly the same weight.
* I seat bullets 10 thousants off the lands using Stoney Point guage and measure each completed round with the same guage.

Works for me.

firstshot
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Make your first shot count!

RE: Reloading questions
 

Check the reloading manuals for accuracy tips. The Lee manual has an entire section devoted to accurate reloading. Sof the tip they suggest are:
1. Sorting cases by weight (something I don't do)
2. Neck sizing the cases.
3. Trimming all cases to same length (this also trues up the case mouth).
4. Chamfering and deburring case mouths.
5. Seating primers flush (I seat primers then rotate 180 degrees and seat
again).
6. Bullet depth. I think this depends on the particular rifle. Some prefer seating the bullet right up against the lands. But some manufacturers like Barnes suggest that the bullet be seated .030" - .070" from the rifling with a starting point around .050".
There are a few other pointers too. One though that I don't agree with is the powder charge. These "experts" say that this is the least important step in accuracy. I weigh each charge to within 1/10th gr. and found several times that even a one grain difference in powder charge can make a notable difference in accuracy. Good luck. I hope you find the advise here helpful.

RE: Reloading questions
 

I have tried most of the suggestions you all have made. I havent got into the weighing of bullets or cases yet. Never thought of the thing with the primers. I made a dummy cartridges of each firearm as suggested by a reloading manual and then played with the length until I found what my guns liked best. They like them pretty long, but since I load them one at a time I don't have to worry about them feeding through the magazine. Thanks for the suggestions. Now, its back to the reloading bench!

RE: Reloading questions
 

One more thing that helped me more than others was switching to Lapua brass, and CCI Benchmark primers. Then I started using the Lee collet sizing die, besides being very accurate you don't have to lube the cases,A WIN-WIN situation!! And as for not weighing cases just try it ,you'll be suprised at the variation in some of them. If your cases are trimed to the same length and sized all the same but weigh 4 grns different then the pressures will vary a great deal as will volicity. I 've had Remington and Winchester brass vary as much as 5 grns within the same lott, thats why I don't use them much anymore.