Scope mounting
 

I am going to buy a Nikon Monarch 5-20x44, BDC. This scope is by far the most expensive scope I have ever purchased. I want to make sure I do all I can to take good care of this sucker. Who would you trust to mount a scope and how much does it cost? Do you just do it yourself? If so, are there any tricks or anything that I should know? I just want to make sure it is done correctly to ensure the longevity of my new baby. Thank you for your help. Chris

RE: Scope mounting
 

I bought my Nikon from Optic Zone and I'm buying my new rifle from Bass Pro next week. They're going to mount, loc-tite, and boresight my scope on my rifle for free. Then it's just a matter of me putting some rounds through it to make sure everything is lined up. You could probably take it to a Bass Pro if you have one in your area. They may charge you if you didn't buy anything there. Or a local gun shop. You should be able to find plenty of information and procedures for moutning scopes on the internet. Google it!

RE: Scope mounting
 

Here's a link with some tips:

http://www.abousainc.com/Mounting.htm

It's not that difficult to mount a scope. Never use the permanent Loctite. Use Locktite Blue, sparingly. Make sure the crosshairs are level/plumb, and shoulder the rifle to position the scope for eye relief and cheek weld before tightening the screws. I checkeye reliefwith clothes on that I intend to hunt with.Buy quality rings and mounts. And if you feel uneasy about doing it yourself, have the gunshop mount it for you. Most do it for free if you purchased the scope or rifle there.They will also bore-sight the scope for you, although it is something you can do yourself.Hope this helps.

RE: Scope mounting
 

Except for extreme application loctite is nothing more than added security. I use it on my 375 JDJ contender pistol for this security. On my tactical rifle I don't use or need it. Soft scope rings which do not hold torque need it. You might use that as a way to determine that you really need better rings.

To just assemble the pieces, is easy and that is what most shops do for like free to $50. With a one piece base, you should bed the base and rely on quality rings and bases to line up well. A two pc base definately needs bedding or lapping of the rings. Another alternative is the TPS bedding alignment jig for 2 piece bases. If ring quality is a slight concern, lap the rings too.

Last is the Burris Signature mount. These plastic inserts are probably the bestcheap way to mount a scope on a low or moderate(< 458 Win Mag) recoiling rifle. That is just a bolt on deal.

The last way is the $35 rings and bases. Your results are a crap shoot. It might be perfect, or it might kink your tube. Good luck. One thing you will know is it will not hold torque and will come loose when you want it to work, even with loctite. Also, dropping or banging your rifle slightly will result in the need to resight in.

RE: Scope mounting
 

I have a scope on my .22 that I had mounted at Dicks Sporting Goods when I bought the .22 and the scope. I've just never taken the scope off. However, the other two guns I have with scopes I've mounted them myself. The 30-06 has a Leupold on it that was mounted and bore sighted when I bought the gun and scope but after having problems with the scope and having to send it off I put a Tasco on there until I got it back then I removed the Tasco and put the Leupold back on when it came back. Then the muzzle loader has a cheapo Tasco which I also just put on myself. It takes all of 30 seconds and I've never had an issue. Not yet anyway.

I will say though the scopes I've just put one have been just as close if not closer than the ones I've had boresighted so I no longer have that done. Espeically since most places charge if you don't buy the scope from them.

RE: Scope mounting
 

Bore sighting is a gimmick. You can bore sight by pulling the bolt out and comparing what you see there to what you see through the scope at 25 yards and do ok.

RE: Scope mounting
 

That's what I do. No big deal, use a large paper to shoot at. I never used a bore-sight tool. Just make sure you have a solid rest so the rifle doesn't move when you move to adjust the scope.

RE: Scope mounting
 

maybe im just lucky but i have never spent more than 10$- 40$ on a set of rings and bases on any of my guns and i have never had a problem. ive banged and dropped a few over the years. i know you get what you pay. lapping and bedding ive never done.

RE: Scope mounting
 

Yall seem to be forgetting a crucial step in scope mounting. I cannot remember how many scopes I've seen with "ring marks". These are caused by3 things-ring misalignment and/or neglecting to lap steel rings in(exception being burris sig rings with plastic inserts),or overtightening. If you go to a basspro or d**ks,they won't do the same job that a gunsmith or knowledgeable tinkerer will. You're spending a lot of money to waste by damaging scope by improper mounting. You CAN buy scope lapping equipment at midway.brownells and other places. All it takes is a 1" steel bar with handle welded on and lapping compound to lap scope rings and a simple double pointer to assure the rings are aligned perfectly. Remember-ring marks are not only uneccesary-they are also indication of scope damage.

RE: Scope mounting
 

Sorry nksmfamjp-I missed reading some of your post and was repaticious in my post.

RE: Scope mounting
 

Sometimes it needs to be said twicee!;)

RE: Scope mounting
 

That may work OK for centerfire rifles. Not worth a damn for shotgun hunters. Bore sighting does have it's place. It's never perfect but it allows you to save time and shells by getting you close. At $12-$19 a box for 5 sabots a $50+ bore sighter will pay for itself pretty darn quick.

RE: Scope mounting
 

The shotgun point is a good point, but I think I would still just mount it and shoot it first a 10, then 25, 50, and finally 100 yards. With a good shooter and scope, I think the 10yd and 25 yd work could be done with 1 shot each, YMMV. Maybe 2 shots at 50. So, to sight in a shotgun initially, I would:
Shoot 1 at 10 Adjust scope so the shot would be 3" below POA.
Shoot 1 at 25 Adjust scope so the shot would be POA.
Shoot3 at100 Adjust scope so thegroup's centerwould be POA.
Shoot3 at100 Confirm POA = POI
Shoot 3 at 125Log POI
Shoot 3 at 50 Log POI
Shoot 3 at 25 Log POI

That s kind of a minimal effort IMO for knowing where your hunting load is and sighting in, but we are way off topic, it seems![:'(]

RE: Scope mounting
 

What Stalking Bear said.


Alaser bore sighter is one of the best things i ever bought. It has never failed to get me on the target at 25 yards and usually at 50 yards. My laser bore sighting is done in the house. The target isa 1" target paster on the wall 25 feet away. Saves a lot of time and ammo too.

RE: Scope mounting
 

Believe me when I say I'm not trying to be a a-hole. But you just took 17 shots at $4 a shot thats $68 dollars worth of sabots when I can do it for about $12 after boresighting. Iown 3 slug guns and two muzzleloaders that I've scoped over the years and still use everyone of them deer hunting. Economics 101. Sighting in is every bit of the procedure in scope mounting. Like I said don't take this the wrong way.