Homemade deer blind on trailer HELP
10-19-2011, 06:09 PM
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 114
Homemade deer blind on trailer HELP
This weekend me and a friend are going to attempt to build a mobile blind on a small trailer and the plans are drop down plexiglass windows, small door, and good for a buddy heater and fit 2-3 people I NEED HELP anyone who has done one pictures help instructions and ideas are welcome!! thanks
10-20-2011, 08:01 PM
#4
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 114
Well lets see hetr, if you hunt multiple areas and you hunt firearms then you should have plenty of open area to hunt from a blind..and you should be able to get there with a fourwheeler. The trailer was an old jet ski trailer and we welded a new platform onto it and are building the blind ontop of it..we drew up plans today. Its 8 foot long 6 feet wide and has windows all the way around a locking door regular house insulation and a few shelves for storeage. We will be hunting from before the sun comes up til after sun goes down. And at the end of the day we dont have to worry bout our stand getting stolen or blind getting torn up by animals cause we can haul it home. We figured it all out now, just gotta by the lumber and get to town.
Last edited by mohunter09; 10-20-2011 at 08:04 PM.
05-12-2012, 05:52 AM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Midwest
Posts: 1,079
I hunt on a farm in NE MO. Two years ago a neighbor had a blind on a trailer parked across the fence. I did not want to climb the fence to look it over so I can not tell you much about it. It seemed to be about the size that you are building and looked like something that would work. It was parked on a ridge top field with wooded slopes on both sides and was a lot better then sitting out in the open.
05-12-2012, 09:06 AM
#7
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location:
Posts: 2,186
Never tried to make a "trailer" blind. I love this sort of stuff !!
I have made many, many box blinds. Most elevated. Here's some thoughts. Use pressure treated materials for the frame and floor for sure. If you are planning on having three adults in the stand at one time (plus gear + heater, etc.) it needs to be about 8 x 4 (8x5 is better). Otherwise it'll be mighty cramped. 6'6" inside height should be tall enough. And easier to heat than an 8 ft. tall box.
If you can afford pressure treated plywood for the outside do so. If not try 4-ply decking plywood for the exterior skin, well painted. That is what I use and this lasts for years if painted regularly. I paint my blinds in a cammo sort of pattern. I also stain the inside with a dark blackish wood stain to help cut the profile of the hunters.
Because it sounds to me like you'll be moving it about a bunch, be sure not to scrimp on putting the frame together. If you do, the frame will likely loosen up. I strongly suggest that you use quality screws to put the stand together, rather than wire nails to assemble the frame and attach the outer panels. Nails will flex better but I think the screws will result in a stiffer, quieter stand.
The stand will need to be well bolted to the trailer bed for sure.
As for a roof, if you are going to be towing at highway speeds, I'd recommend a well attached plywood roof, covered with tin. Would be strong and 100% rain proof for years. Might consider putting carpet in the floor to help mitigate moving about sounds. As far as the sliding windows, I have no clue. I don't build mine that way.
Post a photo of the end product. That'd be cool to see.
I have made many, many box blinds. Most elevated. Here's some thoughts. Use pressure treated materials for the frame and floor for sure. If you are planning on having three adults in the stand at one time (plus gear + heater, etc.) it needs to be about 8 x 4 (8x5 is better). Otherwise it'll be mighty cramped. 6'6" inside height should be tall enough. And easier to heat than an 8 ft. tall box.
If you can afford pressure treated plywood for the outside do so. If not try 4-ply decking plywood for the exterior skin, well painted. That is what I use and this lasts for years if painted regularly. I paint my blinds in a cammo sort of pattern. I also stain the inside with a dark blackish wood stain to help cut the profile of the hunters.
Because it sounds to me like you'll be moving it about a bunch, be sure not to scrimp on putting the frame together. If you do, the frame will likely loosen up. I strongly suggest that you use quality screws to put the stand together, rather than wire nails to assemble the frame and attach the outer panels. Nails will flex better but I think the screws will result in a stiffer, quieter stand.
The stand will need to be well bolted to the trailer bed for sure.
As for a roof, if you are going to be towing at highway speeds, I'd recommend a well attached plywood roof, covered with tin. Would be strong and 100% rain proof for years. Might consider putting carpet in the floor to help mitigate moving about sounds. As far as the sliding windows, I have no clue. I don't build mine that way.
Post a photo of the end product. That'd be cool to see.
05-17-2012, 04:21 AM
#8
Fork Horn
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: ONTARIO
Posts: 128
Very creative. Gave me some new ideas that I never thought of. Start with making some sort of support for the corners so it doesn't shake when moving around while inside, or flip back if too much weight behind the wheels. Are you leaving it hooked onto your hitch while hunting or will it be disconnected to park somewhere else?
If you cut a removable hatch in the floor, it can double as a ice fishing hut.
For the corner supports, either use 4 car jacks or some steel pipe with an over sized flat bottom and multiple holes drilled through it so it can be raised and lowered by bolting them on or a pin system. The cheapest pipe system would to buy some black pipe and floor flange at home depots plumbing department.
A big difference in design is if you have a welder or not.
If you cut a removable hatch in the floor, it can double as a ice fishing hut.
For the corner supports, either use 4 car jacks or some steel pipe with an over sized flat bottom and multiple holes drilled through it so it can be raised and lowered by bolting them on or a pin system. The cheapest pipe system would to buy some black pipe and floor flange at home depots plumbing department.
A big difference in design is if you have a welder or not.
05-17-2012, 04:40 AM
#9
Fork Horn
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 186
I actually built something like this 3 years ago. I used an old running gear from an old grain wagon for mine. I built my blind 6x8 and can fit 3 guys easy with heater and gear. For windows I used sliding utility windows and I wish now I would have spent more money and got double pane as the single panes fog over very easy with the heater on. However double pane windows are not cheap, especially when you'll need at least 4 with this size of stand. I was able to get a 72in by 24in double pane window from a buddy of mine just for the front window and it will not fog. One thing to not forget is window blinds of some sort to shut or partially shut so you dont sillouete yourself. You will also want to stagger your windows so that when your sitting in the blind a deer cant look in one window and then you be sillouted thru the other side. Learned this very quick since your only a couple feet from ground level this will happen. Carpet on floor is a must. Framed mine all in with 2x4's and the floor with 2x6's. Everything insulated and sheeted with plywood. Then used tar paper to cover sheeting and used tin for the last layer. the two biggest things I would have done different was as i mentioned double pane for all windows, and to do a better job with the door. I just used a sheet of plywood and tried to frame it in, etc but it doesn't seal that well. An actual wood door framed in well would be a lot better. Window base should be at roughly 36in high. Shooting rail/storage shelf using a 1x6 all the way around works nice. For the inside i used drywall to cover up the insulation and painted it all black! This is important!! You want the inside as black as night to help hide yourself. Also get yourself two of those l.e.d. lights that mount to a flat surface and put underneath your shelf so in the morning when dark you can tap those and it will keep the light pointing down but still enough to get situated. small hooks that will screw into wood will also be handy for hanging calls, bags, etc up off the floor. Last but not least.................drill a hole in the corner and mount a funnel with a hose going down into the ground so that when nature calls after about the 4th beer you wont have to open up the door and leak outside 
Good luck. If you have questions I'd be happy to answer.
Good luck. If you have questions I'd be happy to answer.
06-24-2012, 04:14 PM
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Southeast Missouri
Posts: 2,178
The Brother in-laws built a small shooting house a few years ago only they put theirs on some strong 4x4 treated lumber underneath it as 2 runners with the front angling down at around 45 degree's then built the shooting house with a side door and the 4 sliding glass side windows.They put 2 eye hooks on it 1 on each side of the front runners and it can be dragged to different shooting spots on the Farm!
