Pre-threaded and chambered bolt action rifle barrels
 

Anybody tried one of these from Shilen?

So far from internet searching / Youtube videos it looks like you would need a barrel vise, action wrench, pin punch, barrels shims, barrel reamer,hammer, and other misc hand tools.

A rough estimate of the above tools would probably be anywhere from $500 to $1000, based on some past research I did for a savage 110 rebarrel.

Realize it’s cheaper to have a professional gunsmith do this , as they have the tools and knowledge, but I was thinking of a winter project for down the road (work and budget pending).

Guessing there’s probably some books out there that deal with rebarreling, but haven’t had a chance to research any yet.

Are you asking about a Savage prefit barrel or a Rem 700 prefit? If its a Savage they come completely chambered so you will need the action/barrel tools for the Savage barrel nut system and some go/no go gauges. If it's for a Rem 700, I'm pretty sure they come "short" chambered so you will need a lathe, reamer, go/no go gauges etc to get it together.

I think you might be getting confused by a lot of misinformation on the internet.

First off - in no way would that list that you have cost $500-1000, and you do not need much of what you've mentioned, especially for a Savage rebarrel.

For a Savage rebarrel, you need:

Parts:

1. Rifle action of appropriate length for desired cartridge
2. Shilen Savage drop-in barrel of desired cartridge with appropriate shank diameter
3. Bolt head of appropriate size
4. Mag box assy appropriate to new cartridge & feed style: box, spring, & follower

Tools: (All available at MidwayUSA or Brownells)

1. Action Vise & Bushing = $70
2. Savage Barrel Nut Wrench = $65
3. Masking Tape = $5
4. Rosin = $15 (cheaper if you go to a rodeo supply store)
5. Torque Wrench 1/2" drive = $30-50
6. Go & No-Go Gauge Set = $65
7. Anti-seize = $5-10

To rebarrel a Savage:
Remove the stock & mag box, fit the action in the vise, remove the barrel nut with appropriate wrench, remove the barrel, thread on the new barrel. Install new bolt head, then insert the go-gauge in the chamber, thread the new barrel to touch the gauge, install and torque the barrel nut to spec, check with no-go gauge, install the new mag assy, check feeding with dummy rounds, then reinstall the stock. Takes about an hour.

For a Rem 700, Win 70, Ruger 77, Mauser, or any other "non-barrel nut model," things are best left to a professional unless you have a lot of experience running T-handled reamers, because the penalty from having a bit of wobble in your hand, or inconsistent pressure, or uneven pressure will leave you with an oblong or chattered chamber.

There are two options for rebarreling these actions:

1. Pre-chambered barrel with a DEEP chamber, i.e. overly long shank/tenon and shoulder such that the cartridges would have excessive headspace when chambered, then you turn down the tenon and shoulder to provide appropriate balance of interference fit and headspace when installed to torque specs. This should ONLY be done on a lathe, and only by a professional gunsmith or machinist that is capable of producing true faces for the tenon and shoulder, with minimal run out.
   
   
2. Pre-chambered barrel with a a SHORT chamber, i.e. the chamber is not cut to full depth, such that a go gauge or loaded cartridge would not chamber, then you finish ream the chamber to appropriate headspace. Go a few thousandths of an inch too far and you've ruined your barrel and will have to have it set back on a machine lathe, then start over. Finish chambering is best done on a lathe. Hand reamers can be used for this, but again, if you wobble, chatter, or have uneven pressure to one side or another, you'll produce an oblong, mis-shapen, or chattered chamber that will degrade accuracy and function at best, and at worst, might cause a case rupture and injure or kill the shooter.

To do the hand reamer job:

First, you have to decide whether you want to use a rear-entry reamer, or a "pull-through" reamer. I personally prefer the pull through style, since it gives a much longer reference length for the pilots, but they're not available for all cartridges, or are harder to find than rear-entry reamers.

Parts:

1. Action of appropriate length for your desired cartridge
2. Bolt of appropriate diameter bolt face for your desired cartridge
3. Mag box assy appropriate for your cartridge (box length, follower, and spring)
4. SHORT chambered pre-threaded barrel with desired cartridge

Tools: (including rear-entry reamer costs)

1. Action Vise & bushings = $75
2. Barrel Wrench & bushing = $75
3. Masking tape = $5
4. Rosin = $15
5. Torque Wrench = $30-50
6. Bottle Torch = $50
7. Anti-seize = $10
8. T-handle with Extension = $50
9. Finish Reamer (PTG, Clymers, or Manson) = $150ish
10. Cutting oil = $15
11. Can of degreaser spray (ether or gun CLP) = $10-15
12. Go & no-go gauge set = $60
13. 2pc receiver to reamer extension bushing - local machine shop = $25-50 (you won't find this on anyone else's DIY how to, but it's something that I've found necessary in doing these projects myself. The guide bushing adds consistency for your cut, as it offers a 2nd pilot point as a cutting guide, especially important since this is nearest the source of the cutting pressure).

You could also consider renting the reamer from 4D, usually $40 for a short term rental, after full MSRP deposit.

To rebarrel a Rem 700/Ruger 77/Win70/Mauser/etc with a short chambered barrel:
Remove stock & mag box, fit action in vise, use barrel wrench to remove factory barrel (may require heating, as it seems Remington has a pair of gorillas at the factory to install barrels), install new barrel to torque spec. Assemble the reamer into the T-handle, then collar the handle shaft with the 2pc bushing, and use even pressure to SLOWLY cut the chamber, using a LOT of cutting oil. Blast with degreaser, then check headspace frequently. Go too far, and you cost yourself $100-150 to have the barrel set back by a competent smith (see long chambered barrel description A above). Once the chamber is cut, confirm with the no-go gauge, and reassemble.

I also have a set of Steel Stamps and a stamping guide to mark the barrel with the cartridge once it's installed, such that the cartridge mark shows on the left hand side (non-port side of a right hand action) of the barrel, as standard. The stamp sets run $50-100, and a guide can be had or made for $50 or so. I use the kit from Brownells (I'll assume they still have it) that runs $150ish.

Keeping in mind, NONE of that describes any action blue printing that you might want to do. In general, I have had great luck with simply sending out Savage bolt head lugs to be trued for $50-100, then lapping the locking lug engagement faces on the receiver, and the rest works itself out with the barrel, but blueprinting a Rem 700 action without a lathe and without a gunsmith is rather costly. The tooling alone will be in the $500 ballpark, and just isn't practical/sensible for a single rifle, PLUS the list I have above, whereas you can have a smith build your rifle for less. I always send out to have my bolt lugs trued, but I have tooling for Ruger 77's and Rem 700's to true the receiver face, chase & true the threads, true locking lug engagement surfaces, then true & lap bolt face, and lap the locking lugs. Very expensive tools that collect more dust than a vacuum, and spend very little time actually getting used.

Hopefully that helps, and doesn't serve to further confuse you! :fighting0007:

Remington model 700 is what I'd like to rebarrel. Really appreciate the info on the short chambering. I was under the impression this was the only way to rebarrel a Remington without a lathe. Nothing against lathes just don't have one.

Thinking back on my cost estimate earlier I think I was adding in additional parts when I was looking at doing a Savage 110.

Total project including a ~$300-500 barrel might be $500-1,000, but neither a Remington nor Savage DIY would ever cost anyone $1,000 in tools. Even $500 would be stretching it for the tools, the numbers are posted plainly in my last response. Stay in the same cartridge family and you can skip the mag box and bolt/bolt head replacement costs too.

Be sure, wherever you end up buying the Shilen tube from, that you buy a short chambered barrel. Seems that either Midway or Brownells used to get long shank/long chambered barrels, rather than short chambered. As such, of course, they had to be set back on a lathe for headspace.

I just had a Savage model 12 22-250 BVSS rebarreled to a 308 with a Douglas XX unfluted barrel it cost me $425 out the door from my local gunsmith. It is awesome! I have been consistently getting 1/4" and under (5 shot) 100 yard groups with it using 168gr. SMK's and Varget powder, and the barrel isn't even broke in yet.

Sounds like you're getting your money's worth out of that new tube!

If you don't mind, I'd be interested to know how much of that $425 was barrel cost, and how much was his time? I don't pay smiths to rebarrel Savages, but I'd be interested to know what a number would be these days, I'd guess somewhere around or under $100 out of that?

Re barrel
 

There is also the rem age barrel and nut. A few company's are making remington barrels and nut similar to the savage

I will have to dig up the receipt, but I believe it was $125 for the smiths labor. I will find the receipt and make sure though, he had everything broke down. itemized.

Sounds like a great shooter for sure. What rate of twist do you have?