hubby11

Came back from the range today and noticed a chunk of wood missing from my stock.



Went back to the range and found the missing chunk. Perfect fit. No other cracks in the stock that I can find. Can I glue it back? If so, what kind of glue? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Wayspr

Not sure what type of glue but solve the underlying cause of why this happened before repairing. Make sure action screws are tight. Make sure back of tang does not contact the stock. Make sure rear action screw is not touching the stock other than the head.

hubby11

Thanks for the reply. I cross-posted this on a Sako-specific forum and received similar advice. Also the likely cause was the rear action screw was too tight while the forward screw, which provides the vast bulk of the support, was probably not tight enough.

Will attempt a repair with a recommended epoxy glue and hopefully address the issues of causation. May need to search for stock replacement options.

ronlaughlin

For a repair like that, i would use titebond 3. Titebond 2 would probably work too, and needs clamped less long. Also, i would practice putting the piece in place, and holding it with a clamp of some kind. Maybe rubber tubing or cable tie would work better than a clamp. Leave it clamped overnight. Also, as suggested by Wayspr, be sure the tang isn't what caused the piece to break off in the first place. Epoxy isn't needed for this repair, and would be messy if i used it. The squeeze out from a waterproof wood glue is easier to remove than the mess epoxy would leave. Wood glue squeeze out can be readily removed after an hour, and can even be removed nearly right away with a damp rag.

Properly done this repair is permanent, and a new stock won't be needed.

hubby11

Repair went well. Did end up using a 2 part epoxy but it cleaned up easily and the nature of the chip did not need clamping. Was a tight fit and set over night.



Looks much better than the pic. What looks like glue is just reflection. Gave some extra space with a dremel to have a little clearance for the rear of the action. The likely problem was a too tight rear action screw and a too loose forward action screw - the opposite of what it should be. Will test out at the range this weekend.

bronko22000

Looks good. At least you had the piece to glue in. I lost a chunk of wood from my muzzleloader stock and had to use wood filler and stain. A close match but not perfect.

Topgun 3006

Just saw this thread and my first thought was that it may have been caused by having the rifle set up in a Caldwell Lead Sled that kept it from recoiling back like it should. I've heard a lot of that happening out on the net and it's usually from one of the bigger calibers that has a lot of ft/lbs. of energy. Physics says that when there is an action there is an equal and opposite reaction. I'm wondering if that was a partial cause and the screws not being torqued properly also entered into it because that's the weak area on a stock where it usually happens.

Pawildman

Seems to me that if the rear tang caused that, something is moving. It shouldn't. Screws were intended to tighten the action into the stock, not absorb recoil. I really highly recommend you have that gun checked by a competent gunsmith for serious bedding issues before you fire it again. It is imperative that proper solid contact between the action recoil lug and it's shoulder in the stock be correct.

Ridge Runner

Use brown accraglass, have it bedded, that let's the whole inlet absorb recoil not just certain points.
RR

deerhunter518

I would glass bed the action and install front and rear recoil lugs. preventing it from moving at all.