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Converting an SKS into a deer rifle trigger help?

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Converting an SKS into a deer rifle trigger help?

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Old 04-21-2013, 09:51 PM
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Default Converting an SKS into a deer rifle trigger help?

Hello, i'm in the process of converting a SKS into a deer hunting rifle and I was wondering if anyone can tell me how I might drop the trigger pull poundage and get rid of some of the trigger travel to break, I'd like to keep the original parts if possible?
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:21 PM
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It's possible to alter an SKS trigger to improve it quite a bit. Fairly simple job, but it requires an intimate knowledge of the function of the SKS fire control group.

Shortening your sear, being careful to maintain proper engagement and face angle, will help take some of the creep out of the trigger. Polishing the engagement faces (NOT FILING) can help eliminate felt creep and trigger pull, at a minimum it can improve your trigger feel and drawstroke. Lightening the mainspring can reduce the pull.

Messing up on any of these can cause your rifle to fire full-auto uncontrollably, which would put you in a world of hurt with the feds for producing a fully automatic weapon.

I can't tell by your post whether you 'want to keep the original parts' as in you want to alter the original parts and avoid buying new/aftermarket parts, or you "want to keep the original parts", as in your want to be able to remove the originals to restore the rifle to it's original state at a later time, so you're wanting aftermarket parts?
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:42 PM
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What I would like to do is alter the original parts in order to have the matching serial numbers intact because it was given to me by a now deceased Uncle, and I have no intentions of ever getting rid of it, I also right now i dont really have the cash to spend on parts! I already had some extra furniture that I had extended the butt stock so I repacked the original wood and stored it for now. I have been looking for some more modern styled synthetic furniture to put on it, I have already converted the original trap door mag into a drop out, which I wish I had gotten another on so the original there would have been original but it's a lil bit to late for that now because that involved some minor cosmetic alterations. It's a slow go for me right now but hopefully i'll have by deer season this year! Thanks for the info and advice!
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:04 PM
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You can screw up a trigger group real easy if you don't know how or what you are doing. The best bang for your buck is this;
http://www.kivaari.com/index.html
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:29 PM
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Curious as to why you'd need to alter it at all?

If you can't keep your bullet in a 10" diameter of your point of aim with the trigger the way it is... then you don't need to adjust the trigger, you need to practice shooting or adjust your sights.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:59 AM
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Psylocide, A few years ago I almost cut off three of my fingers including my " trigger finger " which messed with the sensitivity in it, and I'm not one uh those inside a 10 inch circle type uh people! I'm one uh those inside a 3 inch circle at 100 yrds type uh people. The last several deer I have killed has been with a neck shot, that way if i miss i have missed, if I hit that neck the deer isn't going to run off die and be wasted or run off and be shot up for the next person or be all crippled up! It's gonna be dead pretty close to where it was standing whenI shot!
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by tazmaniac_37752 View Post
Psylocide, A few years ago I almost cut off three of my fingers including my " trigger finger " which messed with the sensitivity in it, and I'm not one uh those inside a 10 inch circle type uh people! I'm one uh those inside a 3 inch circle at 100 yrds type uh people. The last several deer I have killed has been with a neck shot, that way if i miss i have missed, if I hit that neck the deer isn't going to run off die and be wasted or run off and be shot up for the next person or be all crippled up! It's gonna be dead pretty close to where it was standing whenI shot!
Well, those are definitely circumstances to consider.

I agree, I'm not one that would want to have a 10" margin of error from my POA either. But, assuming you aimed at the right spot, 10" should cover the vital area.

I would not go out if I didn't find my groups to be acceptable (which the above would not be) and I'm assuming an experienced hunter that knows his rifle can shoot better than that on any given day.

Anyway, hope you find something that works out for you. I'm not experienced with these enough to say.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:44 AM
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Oh yeah the way it is right now I could kill a deer with it but I just like being precise, my dad instilled, and drove that into me while he raised me. It has taken me several years and several tries to get a scope mounting system that I liked, finally i got that part and just want to get the rest of it like i wantit sense this one imma be keeping and maybe passing down to my lil girl when she gets a bit bigger!
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Old 11-14-2013, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tazmaniac_37752 View Post
...The last several deer I have killed has been with a neck shot, that way if i miss i have missed, if I hit that neck the deer isn't going to run off die and be wasted or run off and be shot up for the next person or be all crippled up! It's gonna be dead pretty close to where it was standing whenI shot!
I'm not a big fan of neck shots. Yes, a bullet hitting a neck vertebrae will probably sever the spine and essentially make an instant kill, with very little meat loss.

However, a bullet through the windpipe will probably look like a miss, and there's a good chance the animal will run off and suffer a lingering death.

I once processed a whitetail buck that I had killed, and when I was cutting off the neck meat I found a jacketed .35 caliber bullet lodged against a neck bone. The deer had been shot at least a year previously, as the neck muscles had completely healed, and other than the bullet, there was not any other indication that the deer had been shot.
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:06 PM
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No offense intended buddy but if you are asking how then you don't have enough experience to be stoning on it. You want to keep everything parts matching, so no room for practicing and possibly replacing a mess up. My advise is to just go with Bill Springfield. http://triggerwork.net/sksrifles.html
Again not my intention to offend or be negative in any way. For $45 you get the experience of a fellow that's done hundreds of thousands of trigger jobs so there's no worries.
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