Tricks for accuracy on a Rem 700?
Anyone have any tricks on tightening up the accuracy on a Reminton 700?
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I didn't care for shooting my 700 ADL for years because the accuracy sucked. Then I changed the scope from a cheap Bushnel that I suspected the cross hairs were moving on me when I would shoot to a Nikon Prostaff and I started handloading. Now I am getting groups I only dreamed about before. This is what worked for me. What caliber?
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I've been told a few things that I'm going to apply to me 700 when I return to the states.
- Make sure the crown has absolutely no damage. If it has even a slight scratch, it will affect accuracy. Have it re-crowned. - Make sure the barrel is not contacting the stock. Run a dollar bill between the barrel and the stock to looks for points of contact. There are specific tools for sanding down the barrel channel. - Ensure the bolt handle isn't touching the stock when it's down. If it is, use a dremel and remove material from the stock until the handle doesn't touch. |
Free float the barrel. This may or may not make a more accurate rifle but it will usually make it more consistent.
Bed the action and 1-2 inches of the barrel. I prefer to use Devcon aluminum putty for this. There are other things you could do but it becomes more extensive and costly. If you have a pre X-mark trigger get it reworked or install an after market trigger. |
I alway like to start with the simplest thing first,
1. Try several different types and weights of bullets. 2. Adjust the trigger, i like mine close to two pounds with as little creep as possible. 3. Try new optics. 4. Try free floating the barrel if it isnt already. 5. Bed the action. |
Originally Posted by SWThomas
(Post 3606662)
I've been told a few things that I'm going to apply to me 700 when I return to the states.
- Make sure the crown has absolutely no damage. If it has even a slight scratch, it will affect accuracy. Have it re-crowned. - Make sure the barrel is not contacting the stock. Run a dollar bill between the barrel and the stock to looks for points of contact. There are specific tools for sanding down the barrel channel. - Ensure the bolt handle isn't touching the stock when it's down. If it is, use a dremel and remove material from the stock until the handle doesn't touch. |
Originally Posted by dylan_b
(Post 3607554)
the dollar bill thing isnt enough in most cases. about 2 years ago i was able to watch some testing being conducted on barrel harmonics and some interesting things came up in the slow motion video. to make a long story short, barrels vibrate ALOT more then most think and for thinner contoured barrels 1/16 to 1/8 clearance is needed depending on the caliber. and supporting the barrel does reduce the distance in the nodes of the vibration wave but it will increase the frequency so there is a chance that a load that might have worked in your gun might not be the most accurate anymore
.......Just really getting sick of this happening. SOOOO disgusting!! Had to go back and re-register (login) just to enter this post. Funny thing is, it recognizes me when I log in initially. I'm just at a loss............... |
Originally Posted by Pawildman
(Post 3610917)
...........Well, once again, after writing a fairly long rely to this thread, I was told I didn't have permission to post. Happens EVERY TIME I write something over a couple paragraphs long.
.......Just really getting sick of this happening. SOOOO disgusting!! Had to go back and re-register (login) just to enter this post. Funny thing is, it recognizes me when I log in initially. I'm just at a loss............... |
TRIGGERS TRIGGERS AND MORE TRIGGERS.. turn your factory one down as light as it can and still be safe or install an after markey Jewell !! After that then you can start playing around with powders, primers, bullets etc. I'm a little surprized your havin that much trouble with the action. A new barrel with a tight clearance neck cut or maybe a barrel..lots of variables to this question
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Trade it in on a Browning..that'll help it the most. J/K..
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