gotcha6

my upper elevation is maxed out and i am still hitting 3 inches low at 100 yards. waht are my options?????

Mountain Cur

Something don't sound right, but if that is the case, you could try putting a shim under the scope in the rear scope ring, I don't want to come across as making the assumption that you don't know what you're doing but make sure to start at 25 yds. and keep it about 2 inches low at 25, again if you already are doing this, or you are sure you're shootin' good at a 100, don't take what I just said the wrong way. The shim should work, just make sure you get a competent person to get it right for you, it needs to fit right.

handloader1

Make sure you are using the right bases for your firearm, and your scope is mounted as close to the barrel as possible without touching it. If the latter is true, you will have to shim the rear base like Mountian Cur suggested. Also make sure the mechanics of your scope are sound. Good luck.

polack

Are you sure you don't have the bases mixed, front where the rear belongs and visa-versa?
Polack

bigcountry

Had the same problem with burris scope. Not sure why. Didn't have the problem with Leupold. But I required 10MOA adjusmetn for long range shooting. Here is what you need. Buy some Burris Signature series rings and the insert kit. With the kit, you can center you scope off the rifle and change inserts to center it on the gun. That way, you have max dynamic range.

sot_II

Some suggestions:

Turn the rings around, switch the front with the back, swithc the top strap of each ring with the other and try turning just the top straps around. You can also try moving the mounts forward and back on your gun (if dovetail) so long as you have proper eye relief.

Depending on how your mounts where made, who made them, and what process was used to fininsh them...you may have mounts that have a sort of "front" and "back". It may not be obvious to the eye, but when you put a scope in there, it's painfully obvious.

One other suggestion, don't shim your scope...set it to your optical zero (equal clicks up and down, left and right) and fire at a test target at your point blank range. Then take it to a good gunsmith and have him or her "droop" the mounts properly. They will remove a little of the inner ring to adjust for the difference in optical center and point blank. You will then have PLENTY of room for adjustment for various distances. Now if you ask your gunsmith to droop your mounts and (s)he doesn't know what you are talking about...that's the WRONG person to have do it. You need a professional...more than likely it will be a long range shooters gunsmith that will do this right.

Note: more than likely those mounts will ONLY work well on that gun once drooped. I typically buy a gun, test out the feel of a bunch of different scopes...then mount the one I like "for life". SO it's not that big of a deal. You may be different...so act accordingly.

USMC PMI

Had this problem in a Weatherby Vangard rifle, ended up being the wrong mounts. The spacing allows you to fit Remington bases on the Weatherby but the height of the rear base is way off. I would check the bases before paying someone to "droop" your rings. Try a different brand or style of bases if you are sure that you have the correct ones. It is possible that the scope is not tracking properly but if it is new most likely not the problem.

sot_II

As this was a response to me, drooping was not the first option offered. Even so with rings that work, drooping v. shiming is prefered as it's more stable, inert to weather, gives the greatest adjustment range possible and allows the scope to sit in near "zero" state.
It's funny how guys will spend thousands of dollars on a gun and scope, maybe spend tens of thousands on a hunt, and will try and cheap out by using coke can shims and felt pads.

USMC PMI

Did I offend you sot_II? I read the other postings and offered what I thought was pertainent advise. It had not been mentioned that bases not designed for a rifle may fit on it. I agree that shimming is not the way to go by all means, and especially shimming the scope rings themselves. I have seen bases shimmed with success but still do not like the idea. My point is that if he is out of elivation and is not even at a 100 yard zero something is wrong. Correcting the problem then adjusting the rings slightly to obtain optical zero makes sense. How much ring do you think the smith will have to remove to get a 5 MOA elivation correction or say 10 MOA? That still would not put the scope even close to optical zero.

sot_II

No you didn't offend me at all. I was just responding as I got an e-mail.
RE: sighting in scope... (in reply to sot_II)

Since you took the time to respond to my post, I was taking the time to respond to yours.

The suggestion isn't that he droop to fix this problem it's figure out your mounts and if you come to a place that you think you should shim, you should droop. Simple.