Nomercy

Others have joked about it, but I'm going to SERIOUSLY suggest you slow down, making 20miles a day even on horseback is moving along at a pretty good clip-I do a lot of distance running and even more coon hunting (at a brisk walk usually), I can run 10miles on a road in about 90minutes, I ran 15miles in 2:41 once, twenty miles would probably take me close to four hours to run---run mind you, on smooth roads (hilly but smoothe).

No here's my problem, either you're a marathon runner and sit for only half the day and RUN the rest, or you're walking all day: average person walks between 2-4mph, walking 20miles could literally take 10hrs...around here we get about 11hrs of sunlight, so you are moving WAY to much.

If you're drive hunting, you're still covering a huge area, moving that fast through an area is likely pushing deer out of the creeks and away from bottlenecks where your buddies are set up.

Now, about the rifle, you're not going to want a compact rifle in 7mm even if you could find it, featherweights are fine, although usually the 7mm suffers more than the .30-06 does on cutting bbl length. I don't honestly believe much in feather weight rifles-you're taking a big chunk of weight off your rifle, but you're still carrying a lot of weight, cut out some weight in your gear and you'll be better served.

You'd be much better served by buying a compact .308win. Compacts are actually considerably lighter, and certainly easier handling, which is more valuable for long walks in brush than lightened weight, IMHO. Compact .308's will do everything a featherweight .30-06 will do, and the reduced weight doesn't push your recoil above handy.

If you really want to cut weight, get a single shot, you get full bbl length with light weights.

It's hard to be a Marlin 1895Guide gun, light, VERY handy, and the .45-70 is plenty of power for your elk.

eldeguello

A Ruger No. 1A in either .30/'06 or 7X57mm (with the right load in the 7X57) will do what you want. Both are very light, even with a lightweight 2X-7X scope. Firing the second shot from a No. 1 is not as time-consuming as you might think, either.

BareBack Jack

I tell you what to do,go and buy your self a Remington Modle 7 in 7mm-08
take the stock off it buy a 12 oz fiberglass stock from Summit(they make one for the Mdl 7),put a 1-6x38 mm scope on it and you have a ultra light that will handle elk out to 250-300 yds shooting 140 gr Trophy Bonded bear claws.
I have one and done the samething it weighs almost 5lbs on the nose.

Other option walk 10 miles and carry a Winchester M-70 in 300 WSM supper Black shadow,they only weigh about 7 with a full mag.

eldeguello

Good recommendation also.

windriverhunter

Thanks for the help! I must make one thing clear, though. I get well more than 12 hours of sunlight a day, and when i walk such far distances im usually hunting antelope out in the desert. Sitting and watching only does you good if you are on a waterhole, and seeing that im hunting in the desert, the are not very many good waterholes to watch. Also, i have 6% body fat, i play soccer year round so im always in amazing condition, and therefore I DONT HAVE ANY WEIGHT TO LOSE!

8mm/06

Considering you're already in trim condition, and assumming you can't trim your gear any more than you have...I guess you'll have to deal with whatever recoil will result from trimming your choice of 30-06 and/or 7mm Mag to a lighter than usual configuration. If you insist on going to a "featherweight" rifle then you may want to tinvest in butt pads and or shoulder-pads to assist in the recoil taming that might be needed if you go super light on the rifle.
Since you're in great condition though....carrying an average weight rifle should just be considered simple exercise.

Nomercy

No offense, but you can't claim to have no weight to lose and to have 6% body fat, not to knock soccer, but I'm a collegiate wrestler (and bull-rider for what it's worth), and have a strong passion for running-hurdles/steeplechase and distance, when you get down under 1%, give me a call.

I'm going to back my previous post, a heavy rifle that's easily managed and balances well will suit you MUCH better than a lighter rifle that doesn't handle well...and featherweights don't truly cut enough weight to warrant any improvement IMHO. Compact rifles in .308 are awesome, or a Marlin 1895 Guide gun .45-70, the fact that they're shorter and well balanced makes them leaps and bounds ahead in my book, I've got a 9.2# Marlin that I take on long distance hunts because it's easier to carry than a 6.9# NEF/H&R single shot...if you're in such great shape, a pound or two won't make the difference at all, it's the hassle of the long rifle that wears you out.

bigcountry

Do you ever get tired of talking about yourself

Quilly

what about the 280rem ? my buddy took a elk at 300yds using this caliber. only took one shot. and dropped it after it ran 30yds. seems to be the best of both worlds.

oldelkhunter

I would get a Model 70 featherweight in 7wsm ..bring it to a gunsmith turn trigger down to 3lbs or so and get a decelerator pad put on it. If your not into handloading look at Federals lineup for this cartridge this year especially the Accubond loadings. I bought a Super Shadow for a January hunt in this same caliber. After a few days I really got tired of having no floor plate so I ditched the stock and bought a new featherweight stock and ordered new bottom metal from Winchester. I now own a matte finished model 70 "I guess you can call it a Featherweight" in 7 wsm . Get lightweight (Talley Aluminum Rings) 1 1/2 oz and a lightweight 2-7 or 3-9 and your all set.