How to handle recoil
12-18-2003, 02:13 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 19
How to handle recoil
The big gun thread made me think about this a little-
What is the best way to handle recoil?
I always relax right before I shoot, and I posture my body to lean into the shot but don't actually lean into it.
What is your method?
What is the best way to handle recoil?
I always relax right before I shoot, and I posture my body to lean into the shot but don't actually lean into it.
What is your method?
12-18-2003, 02:28 PM
#2
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location:
Posts: 1,491
RE: How to handle recoil
Depends to a large degree on what I am shooting, the type of sights, and the position I am shooting from. But one thing is a decided constant...firmly pressing the stock into my shoulder. And if given a choice, I prefer a posture that will allow me to "roll with the recoil", instead of absorbing it. Other than those things...alot depends on the variables.
12-18-2003, 03:12 PM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Coralville, IA. USA
Posts: 3,802
RE: How to handle recoil
I think that the best way to handle recoil is to minimize the amount of recoil you have to deal with in the first place.
I think that there are a lot of people out there who have a chronic case of Magnumitis. I've known guys who go Elk hunting with .300 Ultra Mags and never take a shot past 250 yards. Why, when a 7mm Rem. Mag. is plenty of gun do they subject themselves to the punishment of the Ultra Mag? Maybe it's machismo, or masochism.
I guess what I'm saying is don't use more gun than you need. Don't use a .30-06 when a .243 will do. Don't use a 7mm Mag. when a 7mm-08 is plenty. Don't shoot 150 grains of Pyrodex when 100 grains will do...etc...
But if are shooting a rifle that is well matched to the game and conditions you plan on using it for, and recoil is still a problem, then there are a number of things that you can do to help with recoil.
Get a decent recoil pad is your rifle doesn't already have one. Many factory recoil pads seem to be for decoration only. A good Pachmayr Decelerator or Sims Limbsaver recoil pad can make a lot of difference.
Wear a shooting vest to the range. Shooting vests have padding and other features to take some of the sting out of recoil and help a lot.
Don't spend too much time shooting off a bench or in the prone position.
Don't pick the lightest rifle you can find unless it's necessary. A rifle in the typical big game calibers that weighs less than 7.5lbs complete is going to kick your butt. Magnum(b)'s should weight at least 8-8.5lbs with scope. Only get an ultralight if you're going to be humping it over rough or steep terrain all day.
Practice proper shooting form. Pull the buttstock firmly into the pocket of your shoulder. I see a lot of people who hold the butt too far out onto their arm, and it makes ME flinch when they pull the trigger. Also make sure that the rifle is pulled into your shoulder so that it doesn't have room to pick up speed and momentum before it whacks you. The rifle should push you back, not punch your lights out.
And if all that doesn't help enough, there is always the option of using a muzzle brake. Muzzle brakes can reduce free recoil by as much as 50% or more, but there is a price to be paid for it. Muzzle brakes increase the muzzle blast and noise the shooter (and bystanders) experience quite a bit. You should NEVER fire a brake equipped rifle without hearing protection, PERIOD. Even in the field. One shot from a brake equipped rifle WILL cause permanent hearing if no hearing protection is worn. In fact, at the range it's a good idea to wear BOTH plugs and muffs because the sound pressure can be well over 130dB. But muzzle brakes do work well and are an option for those really nasty kicking beasts that some people tote around.
Mike
I think that there are a lot of people out there who have a chronic case of Magnumitis. I've known guys who go Elk hunting with .300 Ultra Mags and never take a shot past 250 yards. Why, when a 7mm Rem. Mag. is plenty of gun do they subject themselves to the punishment of the Ultra Mag? Maybe it's machismo, or masochism.
I guess what I'm saying is don't use more gun than you need. Don't use a .30-06 when a .243 will do. Don't use a 7mm Mag. when a 7mm-08 is plenty. Don't shoot 150 grains of Pyrodex when 100 grains will do...etc...
But if are shooting a rifle that is well matched to the game and conditions you plan on using it for, and recoil is still a problem, then there are a number of things that you can do to help with recoil.
Get a decent recoil pad is your rifle doesn't already have one. Many factory recoil pads seem to be for decoration only. A good Pachmayr Decelerator or Sims Limbsaver recoil pad can make a lot of difference.
Wear a shooting vest to the range. Shooting vests have padding and other features to take some of the sting out of recoil and help a lot.
Don't spend too much time shooting off a bench or in the prone position.
Don't pick the lightest rifle you can find unless it's necessary. A rifle in the typical big game calibers that weighs less than 7.5lbs complete is going to kick your butt. Magnum(b)'s should weight at least 8-8.5lbs with scope. Only get an ultralight if you're going to be humping it over rough or steep terrain all day.
Practice proper shooting form. Pull the buttstock firmly into the pocket of your shoulder. I see a lot of people who hold the butt too far out onto their arm, and it makes ME flinch when they pull the trigger. Also make sure that the rifle is pulled into your shoulder so that it doesn't have room to pick up speed and momentum before it whacks you. The rifle should push you back, not punch your lights out.
And if all that doesn't help enough, there is always the option of using a muzzle brake. Muzzle brakes can reduce free recoil by as much as 50% or more, but there is a price to be paid for it. Muzzle brakes increase the muzzle blast and noise the shooter (and bystanders) experience quite a bit. You should NEVER fire a brake equipped rifle without hearing protection, PERIOD. Even in the field. One shot from a brake equipped rifle WILL cause permanent hearing if no hearing protection is worn. In fact, at the range it's a good idea to wear BOTH plugs and muffs because the sound pressure can be well over 130dB. But muzzle brakes do work well and are an option for those really nasty kicking beasts that some people tote around.
Mike
12-18-2003, 03:28 PM
#4
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 259
RE: How to handle recoil
When sitting on a bench! How do you deal with recoil then. I'm 6'2" and most benches are designed for short people.
The conditions for me 9 out of 10 time are. Leaning forward where the colar bone is front and not the pocket of your shoulder.
The conditions for me 9 out of 10 time are. Leaning forward where the colar bone is front and not the pocket of your shoulder.
12-18-2003, 03:34 PM
#5
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location:
Posts: 1,491
RE: How to handle recoil
Hi bobo21,
Assuming the seats are built in and can't be adjusted I would opt for extra sand bags. (There are other shooter's rest that might work as well....but I prefer bags when I have access to them.)
Assuming the seats are built in and can't be adjusted I would opt for extra sand bags. (There are other shooter's rest that might work as well....but I prefer bags when I have access to them.)
12-18-2003, 07:53 PM
#6
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wall SD USA & Jamestown ND
Posts: 11,474
RE: How to handle recoil
Some good ideas are listed above. Probably the best is to reduce the level of recoil to start with.. Don't use a bigger gun than you need IF recoil is a problem. The price of shooting the big magnum calibers is recoil I don't like it anymore having a shot out shoulder. You will not be handycapped by using a smaller rifle. I just read an artical by a hunting guide who with his clients have taken 90 elk. Many of these elk were taken with one shot from 25-06, 270, 280 and 30-06 with some taken with 250 savage and 243. There is absolutely no subsitute for good judgement and good shot placement. One good shot from any of the above rifles will take out an elk. However if you can't place the shot well and you won't pass on an iffy shot then it probably won't make any difference what you shoot it with. I am done having the crap kicked out of me and have seen the light. For those who enjoy getting kicked good, the manufactures are busy making bigger harder kicking rifles all the time. Enjoy.
12-18-2003, 08:19 PM
#7
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 3,240
RE: How to handle recoil
I disagree. I will never go squirrel hunting without at least a .375 H&H Mag. I feel this is adequate for squirrels, maybe a little less power then I need, but it works for now[8D]
pssst, this is a joke!!
pssst, this is a joke!!
12-18-2003, 08:42 PM
#8
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lexington NC USA
Posts: 459
RE: How to handle recoil
Driftrider hit one of the best options. Gun weight is a big factor in felt recoil. A friend of mine has a Rem 700 Sendero in 300 WIN Mag. This thing weighs in at around 11 pounds. My Rem 700 ADL in .270 weighs in at just over 8 pounds. After shooting both guns the felt recoil is about the same. The difference is his .300 Mag has more of a push where my .270 is a sharper, quicker kick. I was really suprised and his .300 was very enjoyable to shoot.
Bobo21, I'm 6'3" and have the same problem as you. I always carry at least 2 quilts to the range with me as well as mt Bull Bag. This way I can adjust the height to fit me perfectly.
Bobo21, I'm 6'3" and have the same problem as you. I always carry at least 2 quilts to the range with me as well as mt Bull Bag. This way I can adjust the height to fit me perfectly.
12-18-2003, 11:05 PM
#10
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rocky Mountains, Colorado
Posts: 1,964
RE: How to handle recoil
Comfortable Benchrest Recipe:
Have the rifle stock fitted to you by a pro.
Get the trigger down to 3 to 4 pounds, short and crisp.
Install a quality stock mounted recoil pad,
Wear a shooting vest or PAST recoil pad if weather is warm and clothing is thin.
Use a scope with a decent eye relief and mount it well forward.
Set aside the standard issue POS "screwjack" fore arm rest.
Sit with your stomach touching the bench AND your back straight.
Use just enough quilts, boxes, sandbags to build your own support structure at both the front and back.
Fine tune the support structure to where the crosshairs are on target without you holding it.
[Now all you have to do is shoot it without screwing things up.]
Slide in, take it in your arms, snug it up, target, do whatever it is you do for your personal breathing pattern and fire, all within 10 seconds from first glimpse to firing.
If you can't get it done in 10 seconds. Stop. Put it on safe. Look up. Ask yourself if you are done screwing around and are ready to shoot.
When the answer comes back "yes". Start again and shoot as soon as the crosshairs are on the bullseye. The longer you screw around looking through the scope without doing something the harder it will hit you until you are just mentally begging for it to be over with. More important, taking too long is LOUSY training for hunting. [Even moderate kickers will hit you harder when you take too long.]
BTW, this is for sighting in. Once sighted in, get away from the bench and into field conditions or into field poses, i.e. beside or in front of the bench rest.
Of course all of this will require that you do things that make you look different from the rest of the herd. I guess you have to ask if you care. If you show up with a rifle with some 'nads to it, then you are already different from the herd by a fair margin. For folks that need a gentler, kinder experience, then consider Sheridan Air Rifle, 5mm, 4x scope -- very light recoil, low report, low risk of scope eye. Not much for performance but it can help sharpen up your shooting form -- all in the privacy of your back yard.
EKM
Have the rifle stock fitted to you by a pro.
Get the trigger down to 3 to 4 pounds, short and crisp.
Install a quality stock mounted recoil pad,
Wear a shooting vest or PAST recoil pad if weather is warm and clothing is thin.
Use a scope with a decent eye relief and mount it well forward.
Set aside the standard issue POS "screwjack" fore arm rest.
Sit with your stomach touching the bench AND your back straight.
Use just enough quilts, boxes, sandbags to build your own support structure at both the front and back.
Fine tune the support structure to where the crosshairs are on target without you holding it.
[Now all you have to do is shoot it without screwing things up.]
Slide in, take it in your arms, snug it up, target, do whatever it is you do for your personal breathing pattern and fire, all within 10 seconds from first glimpse to firing.
If you can't get it done in 10 seconds. Stop. Put it on safe. Look up. Ask yourself if you are done screwing around and are ready to shoot.
When the answer comes back "yes". Start again and shoot as soon as the crosshairs are on the bullseye. The longer you screw around looking through the scope without doing something the harder it will hit you until you are just mentally begging for it to be over with. More important, taking too long is LOUSY training for hunting. [Even moderate kickers will hit you harder when you take too long.]
BTW, this is for sighting in. Once sighted in, get away from the bench and into field conditions or into field poses, i.e. beside or in front of the bench rest.
Of course all of this will require that you do things that make you look different from the rest of the herd. I guess you have to ask if you care. If you show up with a rifle with some 'nads to it, then you are already different from the herd by a fair margin. For folks that need a gentler, kinder experience, then consider Sheridan Air Rifle, 5mm, 4x scope -- very light recoil, low report, low risk of scope eye. Not much for performance but it can help sharpen up your shooting form -- all in the privacy of your back yard.
EKM
