308?
 

I went to the range today my question is with this group at 100 yds where does this put me at 25 50 200 and 300 ? I shot this gun 1 other time and my group was right around bullseye but today was super windy and i wasnt really holding the gun down to stop muzzle rise this was off a bipod i was shooting 150 gr american whitetail 308

uhhh what? A group isn't the position on the target, it is the average distance from each other in a multiple shoot. Like 5 rounds, how close are they to each other. Now as to your question, I think you are looking for POI (point of impact) answers. I think those American Whitetail from Hornady are loaded with the 150gr Interlocks. I know the .243 is.

If you have your rifle zeroed at 100 (that means dead on bullseye) then you will be approximately 2 inches low at 200 and around 10.5-11 inches low at 300. That's based on if you have a 24 inch barrel. It could be a bit different than the book speeds. But I'll be honest with you on something, if you have no clue where your rifle will hit at a certain range, then you have absolutely NO business shooting at live game at that range. A rifle isn't some magical tool that will automatically make the kill shot for you. There are a lot of variables to shooting live game in the field. If you have only shot that rifle once before, then you really need to be hitting the range and practice shooting under field conditions at ranges that you think you may encounter game. Our whitetail deserve nothing short of our best effort to harvest them cleanly and as quickly as possible. I'm not trying to be a A Hole here, just an advocate for ethical hunting practices by everyone out there.

I wholeheartedly agree.

You don't want to try and hold the muzzle down. What you want is consistency, use proper form and try to do it exactly the same every time.

The rifle is most always more accurate than the shooter is. When things go wrong or your point of impact shifts, most times it is because the shooter has introduced a variable, bad form or made some other mistake.

Theoretically, you could hold your rifle upside down, dial in your scope and shoot good groups, if you did it the same every shot.

Ammo type, bullet weight, outside temperature and other factors also play a role. Either singly or a combination of factors.

You also have to make sure your equipment is OK, scope tight, bore clean or dirty (one or the other). Again consistency is the key.

Tensing up is one of the major mistakes of a beginning shooter. Relax be consistent and let the rifle do most of the work.

A lot of people talk now on days about five shoot groups. IMO three shot groups are the way to shoot, after three rounds barrel temps play a larger roll in point of impact.

Wind drift is real, even at 100 yards.

Practicing with "good form" is the key to consistency; with consistency come accuracy !

This may help...



I have a Savage .308 with a Bushnell Trophy 3-9x40 scope. I have it dialed in for a 150yd zero and am fine with that. It's roughly about an inch high at 100 and an inch low at 200 with that setup.

Use the chart.


http://www.hornady.com/ballistics-re...ics-calculator




:D Al

I don't believe he was asking his question about hunting. He only was looking for info such as would come from a ballistic chart.

Ballistic charts are an indicator of what is likely to happen, not definitive.

The only real way to know, is to get good enough to shoot some decent groups and try your specific rifle at various ranges.

The scope (line of sight) is normally above the barrel (line of flight). Depending on the rifle, mount and scope diameter, the geometry can change some. Different ammo brands, barrel length, different bullet weights and even outside ambient temperature is going to cause some deviation from the ballistic charts.

Like I said, the only way to know for sure is to keep a shooting book, put in the range time and figure out what your rifle does at different ranges.

I eventually figured out when it gets seriously cold out, my point of impact at moderate ranges actually went up and not down like I assumed. One rifle I have, the point of impact, at moderate ranges, would rise as the barrel heated.

First step is to get enough consistency in your shooting, to shoot some decent groups (MOA or less). Keep a shooting book so you can get an idea of what to expect the next time out.

a chart will like said above ONLY give you a ballpark idea
If you honestly want to know what YOUR gun and YOUR ammo will do, the time to KNOW and find out is NOW< before hunting with it
its NOT right to be finding out WHAT YOUR AMMO/GUN does by shooting at game
thats why they have targets to practice with
just taking a chart and calling it GOOD< can lead to lost game or wounded animals and disappointment!
spend the time and SHOOT at ranges your willing to shoot at game at!
its the right thing to do and will ONLY help you gain skills, all worth while to do!

All that shooting takes time and money. A chart will put you in the ball park with out spending all that time and money.


Also take the human factor away and use a sled or rest of some kind to hold the rifle while doing the shooting.





:D Al

While the shooting - as any shooting - does take time and money, what's the point of having a chart, proven or calculated, unless you're going to shoot? Just wanna feel good about having a drop chart taped to your stock like a "sniper?" A guy doesn't have to shoot pound upon pound of powder to suss out their projected drop chart.

What I honestly think most folks do wrong is use a 100yrd zero. Unless you're hunting Nickels and quarters, OR never shooting beyond 100, a 100yrd zero makes little sense.

Second biggest mistake is assuming your POI doesn't drift throughout a year, or throughout the life of a rifle. Temp stable powder or not, your bullet won't fly the same at 500yrds on all conditions, so having a rudimentary chart from any ballistics calculator OR EVEN ONE PRODUCED BY A DAY AT THE RANGE doesn't mean schitt.

Guy was not talking about shooting deer, he was talking about trajectory. Best to find that out by taking the human out of the equation.


If he were talking deer hunting I suggest to practice the way he hunts.


:D Al

A time for every tool.

Nobody does jumping jacks during a football game, but they all do them during the week at practice. Not many folks hunt from a sled or machine rest, but it makes sense to use them for optics set up, load development, etc.

Tru dat!!! I have had guys come out to my place and shoot and when I asked if they wanted to use the bench they said no. So I said ok, grabbed a cup of coffee and chair and proceeded to watch. I saw the one guy pull out his weapon, load it and then start shooting. He pulled the scope adjustment caps off and begin to start twisting like he was dialing in an old radio for Tokyo!!! I asked what he was doing and he told me he was sighting in his gun. I asked him if he needed to use the concrete bench and bags. He told me he knew what he was doing and that I should mind my own business when it came to his weapons!!!! I very gently suggested that the bench and bags may help him for his scope adjustments a bit more accurate for his needs. He proceeds to strongly inform me that there are no benches and bags in the timber and that I should mind my own business, AGAIN. I then went inside, pulled out my ML, my 20ga Mossberg Trophy Slugster, 44 Mag Lone Eagle and my .460. I sat down at the bench with all 4 and proceeded to cut out the bullseye of his target, which up to this point was null and void of any holes except 1 at the very top corner. We were shooting 50yds. I then asked him again if he needed any help. He told me that he would take care of it and I should leave him to fix his weapon problems and not bother him. Upon this last encounter, he was drinking some coffee and I detected a smell of alcohol. I asked if he had been drinking and he said that is steadies his nerves. I then STRONGLY informed him to clear his weapon, case it and return to the vehicle upon which he arrived in. He said that it didn't hurt anything and that he was over 21. I then again informed him that he was at MY house, MY private range and that if he pursued this issue any further, MY report they would be reading upon his introduction to the locals hospitality!!! His partners were now FULLY engulfed with his ignorant decision and ******ed him away and back home. The one guy who we all had common acquaintance with apologized beyond the end of the world for this and promised that he didn't know and that he would never bring him back. I told him that and along with maybe never to around him with weapons may another smart decision as well. This just happened 2 days ago.

Do not sight your .308 at 100 yards. Look up Maximum Point Blank Range. Use that method to find where you want to sight your rifle. For instance, my 7MM-08 is zeroed at 225 yards. The bullet hits 2.5 inches at 150 yards at 2.5 low at 300. I can shoot from zero yards to 300 yards using my crosshair. That covers most of your hunting shots.

You really need to be shooting your gun at different ranges to determine all this. Starting out with a ballistic calculater is a good start. Then use a solid rest for all your practicing. Once you get used to the feel of the rifle and sighed in start shooting in field conditions. What you do on a bench will never be as good as in the woods so learn your limitations.

Eh - guys have killed game for over a hundred years with 100yard zeroes. I personally only use 3" for my MPBR calculations, as I've never been comfortable being 2.5" PLUS HALF OF MY GROUP SIZE off of my target. A +/-2.5" MPBR at 300yrds with a 1moa rifle means my impact might find itself 4" under my aiming point - which might mean I blow through below the heart and lungs, instead of hitting them.

I do zero my optics for longer ranges, typically, to allow me to minimize my corrections, but I DO hold for elevation/range when I make a longer shot. It's not so difficult to estimate 2-3" of hold over out to 300yrds (~4x thickness of your crosshairs), which lets me take out the slack in that 4" above, bringing my "miss margin" down to only 1.5" instead of 4". I also hold under for closer shots, although it's less critical to do so, since 1moa at closer ranges is incrementally smaller.

And of course, if you're hunting golf balls, a +/-2.5" MPBR tolerance doesn't work. The OP didn't say anything about hunting, so there's no way to know what his tolerance margin might be.

So for the OP's sake in this learning process, MPBR is a great philosophy, but it's not without it's own faults and it isn't a free lunch.

My brother sent me an E mail Saturday saying he had took his 308 out and checked the zero for Tuesdays fire arm deer opener. Said he was 2 inches high at 100 yards so should be right on at 200 or more.
I used to hunt the same place he hunts so I really got a good chuckle out of his mail. If you were to get a shot at even 50 yards it would be considered a really long shot there.
Normal deer kills there is about 30 yards max, and he knows that too.
Figure he was thinking about hunting My Up deer camp where you can shoot can shoot over 300 yards across cranberry bogs and on the beach. But I am not hunt at my UP camp this year.


:D Al