Ruger mark 3
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 125
Ruger mark 3
I'm planning on purchasing a Ruger mark 3 for target and small game. What are your opinions on the mark 3 target or the longer mark 3 hunter. I'm leaning toward the 51/2 in. target if accuracy is still good. Thanks for the input
#2
There isn't a Ruger Mark III made that isn't accurate. The biggest difference in these models are in the feel in hand, which can effect how well you shoot them, but ultimately, any of them will be very accurate. I'm a big fan of the Ruger Mark I/II/III's, have been through several of them, only have 6 of them now (Honestly favor the Mark II over the I and III). My old 6" Mark II standard barrel shoots just as well as my new Mark III Gov't or my wife's Mark III Hunter. Only time I've done better is when I had a Mark II Gov't rebuilt, and frankly, it shoots better than I ever will. Balance and how fast they heat up will be the only real difference.
#3
I have a Mk III Hunter and agree with NoMercy...the Mk III is a fine pistol. This guy's video does a good job of explaining how to field strip and put them back together.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fIYIWK0boo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fIYIWK0boo
#4
One big thing I would say for most Mark I/II/III's:
If it's a little 'tight' removing the mainspring housing the first time you take it down, use some polishing compound and a rag, or a bit of superfine grit emory paper to polish the receiver pin. These things can be a bear, and simply polishing it will make your life SO much easier when you clean it forever in the future.
If it's a little 'tight' removing the mainspring housing the first time you take it down, use some polishing compound and a rag, or a bit of superfine grit emory paper to polish the receiver pin. These things can be a bear, and simply polishing it will make your life SO much easier when you clean it forever in the future.
#5
If it's a little 'tight' removing the mainspring housing
I have devised my own special high-tech tool for opening the main spring - it is a piece of string.
I have tied a length of string into a loop. Loop the string over the main spring "handle" put fingers in the loop of string and pull down and out - works like a charm. Use a piece of string that is small enough to wrap around the main spring handle when it is fully in place but strong enough not to snap.