bbullard

Hey everyone, I am new to cleaning guns and just picked up a newbie kit at Sportsmans Warehouse. I bought an Outers gun cleaning kit for about $16. I bought the Universal version because I want to use it for my .22, .270, 30-06, AR-15, and 12ga. Below is my process that I did when cleaning my .270:

Used .22/.270 jag and inserted numerous patches with Barnes Cr-10 on them. Afterwards I ran some dry patches through it so I didnt see any blue. Then I went on to put CR-10 on my .270 bronze brush and inserted it into the gun. However, I noticed that there was ALOT of resistance when pushing it down the barrel? I noticed that the cleaning rod was flexing alot as well. (Probably because its a kit rod and multi-pieced). However, I continued and then took off the brush and ran a few more dry patches and then a last patch with gun oil through it.

So what I want to know is, why in the heck was the brush so hard to push through the barrel? And should I get Hoppes #9 for general cleaning rather than CR-10? Lastly, am I supposed to leave the last single coating of oil in the barrel to protect it? If so, do I run a dry patch through it before the next time I shoot it?

P.S. For the record, I was not using a bore guide because I have yet to purchase one.

daleintampa

Assuming you have three pieces of rod there. If you hold the handle on the back end of the rod and don't support the front of it as you insert the brush then yes, it will flex and the brush should have some resistance. And just make sure you have the right size brush. The CR 10 is all you need as a solvent.

Oil in the barrel. This is a personal preference. Some people run a oil patch through the barrel and before firing. They will run a dry patch through the barrel. Or some people clean the barrel and don't add any oil to the inside. I have done both. You don't want the inside of the barrel soaked. Just a little oil. I have fell in love with the Bore Snakes. They make cleaning soooo easy. And I believe they are the best when it comes to cleaning. I have one for my .22 and my .270win

Wingbone

Whatever your cleaning regimen, my advise would be to lose the aluminum rod. The soft aluminum embeds picked up grit and the flexing action starts lapping your barrel with it. A smooth steel rod won't flex or pick up grit.

halfbakedi420

my biggest pet peeve is the brush should only be pulled the way the bullet gets shot out. run the rod through the barrel...attach the brush in the chamber area and then pull the rod, with the brush attached, through the barrel, the same way the bullet goes. when yer patch comes out clean, yer good to go...if storing it, oil heavily(the whole gun, inside and out, before shooting make sure to run the scrubber and a couple patches through it again and wipe off any excess oil.)...if yer shooting soon, oil lightly.

bugsNbows

My $.02... 1). use nylon brushes instead of brass / bronze. 2). Loose the jags and just wrap a cleaning cloth over the nylon brush. You will probably need a little smaller (than the correct bore size) brush to do this. By doing this, there is little chance to scratch the bore.

OhioNovice

Throw all the brushes away and buy a bore snake. Best $30 you can spend. Then use a small tooth brush with some hoppes #9 for touch up.

halfbakedi420

a bore snake isnt good for deep cleaning..i use one, and its great for the range.
eventually yer gonna have to give er a good scrubbing..i do mine when i get home.
bore snake is not a replacement of a good ol fashion cleaning. its an aid.

skeeter 7MM

Quality 1 piece coated rod (tipton, dewey,etc), rod guide, cal brushes, jag and patches (I prefer nylon and plastic). Solvents such as shooter choice, etc and a copper specific solvent such as cr10,etc. Light gun oil to finish. If storing for extended periods I leave oil in bore, if shooting I dry patch to remove excess oil. I spray light gun oil on a rag and wipe down exterior of entire rifle.

Optional gun vise or craddle.

Wayspr

Do explain. When cleaning a firearm, always start rod from breech end unless you are cleaning an auto, lever gun etc in which you must go from the muzzle. If using a quality bore guide, I see no reason why the brush can't go both ways.

Wingbone

I didn't make it up. Take it up with these guys.

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?...ng-rods-risky/

http://www.exteriorballistics.com/re...rifletools.cfm

http://books.google.com/books?id=t5T...20grit&f=false

http://www.otistec.com/Support/Product_Support.asp


Plus, apparently the surface of the aluminum rod oxidizes, forming aluminum oxide, the same stuff that is on sandpaper.