How to make an H&R 243 shoot half decent?
#1

I just got back from the range today and tried many different types of ammo through my H&R 243 heavy barrel and the best i could do at 100yrds was 2 1/2 -3'' groups! I tried hand loads, factory Hornandy SST's, Coreloks you name it and it still shot like crap. I have it scoped with a Sightron III scope. I checked the lockup and its tight. I know the triggers are for crap but 3''? I can almost do that with my crossbow! LOL Any ideas or pointers on what i or a gunsmith can do to improve accuracy?
#2

I also have a heavy barrel H&R in .243. It also took me awhile to find a load that shot in it very well. I probably tried like ohhhh 30 different load combinations before I found a good one. I now have 4 different loads that work well in mine...but it doesn't mean they will in yours. This was one of the pickiest of all my rifles to load for...but it does shoot below 2" groups @ 100 now...the loads are...
80g Hornady FMJ, pushed with 38g of IMR 4064, Remington 9 1/2 primers...Winchester Brass
55g Nosler Ballistic Tip, pushed with 43g of IMR 4895, Rem 9 1/2 primers....Win Brass
90g Nosler Ballistic Tip, Pushed with 37g of IMR 4895, Rem 9 1/2 primer...R-P Brass
100g Nosler Partition, pushed with 41.5g of H4831, CCI primer....R-P brass
Not sure what loads you have worked with...but I definitely got the best results fro IMR 4895, H4831 and IMR 4064...I also had consistently better results with Remington Primers. I can consistently get under 2" groups @ 100 now (I know, nothing to brag about...but what do you expect for a rifle I bought new for under $180!)
All I can say is keep at it! If you want sub-MOA though...I recommend spending a bit more $$ than what that H&R set you back...don't get me wrong, I own 2 of them (223 and a 243) and like them both for what I use them for, but they are not going to be as accurate as my Remmy 70's or my Tikka...or my A-Bolt's...but I also paid 3-5X as much for them too.
80g Hornady FMJ, pushed with 38g of IMR 4064, Remington 9 1/2 primers...Winchester Brass
55g Nosler Ballistic Tip, pushed with 43g of IMR 4895, Rem 9 1/2 primers....Win Brass
90g Nosler Ballistic Tip, Pushed with 37g of IMR 4895, Rem 9 1/2 primer...R-P Brass
100g Nosler Partition, pushed with 41.5g of H4831, CCI primer....R-P brass
Not sure what loads you have worked with...but I definitely got the best results fro IMR 4895, H4831 and IMR 4064...I also had consistently better results with Remington Primers. I can consistently get under 2" groups @ 100 now (I know, nothing to brag about...but what do you expect for a rifle I bought new for under $180!)
All I can say is keep at it! If you want sub-MOA though...I recommend spending a bit more $$ than what that H&R set you back...don't get me wrong, I own 2 of them (223 and a 243) and like them both for what I use them for, but they are not going to be as accurate as my Remmy 70's or my Tikka...or my A-Bolt's...but I also paid 3-5X as much for them too.
#5

I have a Ruger M77 in Win 338mag with work done to it and a Savage in rem 7MM and both will consistently hit coke cans @ 200 YRDS. I would just like to know where the inconsistency and inaccuracy is at in H&R rifles. Again, is it the lockup, barrels??
#6

I'm not sure. I do know that I have heard folks say they had a shooter but I have heard a lot more say they have had nothing but bad accuracy with theirs. I had a .223 that was very inconsistent. I sold it quick. If you google it, you will read more bad reviews than you can shake a stick at. In my opinion, the old saying that says you get what you pay for, applies here. Good luck.
#7

I'm not sure. I do know that I have heard folks say they had a shooter but I have heard a lot more say they have had nothing but bad accuracy with theirs. I had a .223 that was very inconsistent. I sold it quick. If you google it, you will read more bad reviews than you can shake a stick at. In my opinion, the old saying that says you get what you pay for, applies here. Good luck.
#8

Truth is I am taking my son on a mulie hunt in Idaho in Oct and the gun shoot well enough to kill a deer at 100-150yrds i just would hate to have to second guess a rifle on a shot. Especially on where we are going on an outfitted hunt. I would let him shoot my Ruger but its just to big for him.
#9

Bed the scope rail - Get an AcraGlas Gel bedding kit from Brownell's. Basically just remove the scope rail, clean/degrease everything, and give the barrel a coat of release agent. Lay the gel under the scope rail so there's plenty to form a solid 'bed' between the rail and the barrel, then install the screws and tighten them down. This makes sure the scope rail wont have any movement or flex.
You can mess around with the trigger, I've never done it with this rifle, but here's a sight that may help. http://www.perkloafm.com/downloads2.html It's got a couple of things you can download that tell you how.
Another thing could be the drop time on your hammer, and I don't know how you could change that. Just make sure your shooting with proper form and proper follow through
You can also probably float your barrel and bed the forearm, but once again, I've never done that on this rifle.
Hope this helps, my experience is limited as I was only helping a friend get his shooting a little better.
-Jake
You can mess around with the trigger, I've never done it with this rifle, but here's a sight that may help. http://www.perkloafm.com/downloads2.html It's got a couple of things you can download that tell you how.
Another thing could be the drop time on your hammer, and I don't know how you could change that. Just make sure your shooting with proper form and proper follow through
You can also probably float your barrel and bed the forearm, but once again, I've never done that on this rifle.
Hope this helps, my experience is limited as I was only helping a friend get his shooting a little better.
-Jake
#10

Bed the scope rail - Get an AcraGlas Gel bedding kit from Brownell's. Basically just remove the scope rail, clean/degrease everything, and give the barrel a coat of release agent. Lay the gel under the scope rail so there's plenty to form a solid 'bed' between the rail and the barrel, then install the screws and tighten them down. This makes sure the scope rail wont have any movement or flex.
You can mess around with the trigger, I've never done it with this rifle, but here's a sight that may help. http://www.perkloafm.com/downloads2.html It's got a couple of things you can download that tell you how.
Another thing could be the drop time on your hammer, and I don't know how you could change that. Just make sure your shooting with proper form and proper follow through
You can also probably float your barrel and bed the forearm, but once again, I've never done that on this rifle.
Hope this helps, my experience is limited as I was only helping a friend get his shooting a little better.
-Jake
You can mess around with the trigger, I've never done it with this rifle, but here's a sight that may help. http://www.perkloafm.com/downloads2.html It's got a couple of things you can download that tell you how.
Another thing could be the drop time on your hammer, and I don't know how you could change that. Just make sure your shooting with proper form and proper follow through
You can also probably float your barrel and bed the forearm, but once again, I've never done that on this rifle.
Hope this helps, my experience is limited as I was only helping a friend get his shooting a little better.
-Jake
I'd sell that sucker and buy a used anything or even a Savage. I can't believe I said to buy a Savage!