Do I need stainless???
12-28-2009, 02:45 PM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,421
I prefer the blued and wood stock on high powered rifles.
I've hunted in drizzle many times with my blued/walnut stock Remmy 700 7mm mag.
I just try to keep as much of the gun covered as best as I can and make sure i give it a good wipe down and oiling after getting back to camp.
The bluing still looks great after many years of hunting with it but I don't try to make practice of it because I don't really like sitting in the rain anymore than I like my gun/Luepold scope in the rain.
I've hunted in drizzle many times with my blued/walnut stock Remmy 700 7mm mag.
I just try to keep as much of the gun covered as best as I can and make sure i give it a good wipe down and oiling after getting back to camp.
The bluing still looks great after many years of hunting with it but I don't try to make practice of it because I don't really like sitting in the rain anymore than I like my gun/Luepold scope in the rain.
12-28-2009, 03:23 PM
#13
Fork Horn
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tug Hill NY
Posts: 420
All guns wear, stainless doesnt show it as much. It leads alot of folks to believe you dont need to do anything with it, and they end up with junk.
With reasonable and minimal care, a blue/wood gun with last many generations (as many have). Pre season, take the action apart, and apply a good coating of preservative grease or spray to the barrel and action. I allways apply several coats of Tru Oil to the inside of the stock of all new hunting gun acquisitions to help keep it sealed.
After reasssembling the gun reapply the protective grease/spray to the exposed barrel and action (only a light coating outside). If I know I am hunting crummy weather I apply some Hoppes gun grease or similar product along the action and barrel seam to keep water out. Make sure your barrel is free floating, and any warpage (really not the right term- the wood may swell or contract tiny degrees, which if it touches the barrel, can affect it) as you call it shouldnt affect the actual shooting.
If you hunt in real wet conditions, make sure you dry out the gun and action. I blot them dry with paper towels, spray the action with WD-40, and allow to warm and dry, clean and re-do the process. My stainless guns I treat the same as blued. They are quality precision instruments: why would I treat them any different? I do appreciate the margin that stainless black powder arms have- but again, you should treat them the same as blued.
With reasonable and minimal care, a blue/wood gun with last many generations (as many have). Pre season, take the action apart, and apply a good coating of preservative grease or spray to the barrel and action. I allways apply several coats of Tru Oil to the inside of the stock of all new hunting gun acquisitions to help keep it sealed.
After reasssembling the gun reapply the protective grease/spray to the exposed barrel and action (only a light coating outside). If I know I am hunting crummy weather I apply some Hoppes gun grease or similar product along the action and barrel seam to keep water out. Make sure your barrel is free floating, and any warpage (really not the right term- the wood may swell or contract tiny degrees, which if it touches the barrel, can affect it) as you call it shouldnt affect the actual shooting.
If you hunt in real wet conditions, make sure you dry out the gun and action. I blot them dry with paper towels, spray the action with WD-40, and allow to warm and dry, clean and re-do the process. My stainless guns I treat the same as blued. They are quality precision instruments: why would I treat them any different? I do appreciate the margin that stainless black powder arms have- but again, you should treat them the same as blued.
