Myersbuck

Everthing was going good...stripped the old finish off...sanded it all down smooth and stained it. The stain looked great. I let it sit over night. I just started to apply the clear coat via spray. I just went and checked on it drying and it is no longer smooth. It has little bumps all over it

I searched around on the internet and I think I need to "wet sand" it? Is it called "orange pit?"

I want to put a few more layers of clear on it too.

Does anyone know what I should do?

Mark whiz

You might have a chemical imbalance there. What type of stain (oil, polyurathane, etc) and what type of clear coat (enamel, oil, etc) was used. Check the labels and make sure they are compatible with each other.

Since you've stained the wood - you might want to consider going with an oil finish like boiled linseed or tung oil handrubbed rather than a clear coat. Those give more of a natural look and can be touched up easily and at any time.

jrbsr

Looks like you didn't clean all of the stripper off.
You need to restripe it and make sure to rinse it with the recomanded cleaner.
To get all the resadue of the stripper off.

I thought about this kinda thing too.

Try this,



I used this on my wood stocks in gunsmithing school.
The pic is gloss, I used satin.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...000&lpage=none

They turned out very well.

What ever finish you use, make sure to get the stripper resadue off the wood.
Or it will keep bubbling up.
Try the stain, and finish you are going use on some scrape wood, the same as the stock first, to see if it works.

Good Luck.

halfbakedi420

these bubbles that have dried can be cause by shakin the poly..alwaz stir it, not shake it, sand it down as best ya can and like the b4 post, make sure u dont use water base poly, lose the spray as well, get a good non yellowing oil base poly and start over..

make sure ya get the old poly off as best ya can, maybe restaining tooo..make sure youuse lamb skin to apply polly, not the synthetic cloth..make sure it aint too humid outside fer the next 4-9 days, and try and get a non-sanding polly, although you will lighly sand between coats makin sure they dry very good( no tackiness)

Myersbuck

Thanks for the reply.

The stain I used is a Minwax wood finish

I am also using a Minwax fast drying spray polyurethane (clear satin).

Rootsy

Did you use a tack cloth to wipe it down before spraying? If it has little pin type bumps it is most likely dirt. If you look closely and see them as craters it is solvent pop.

In body work / refinishing, etc, prep is 99% of the job...

Pawildman

Orange peel can be caused by several things. Was the stock and /or the spray cool at the time of application? Sometimes a cold finish or a cold stock can cause orange peel. Spraying too far from the stock can cause it also, and I do agree that improper prepping could be at fault.

As far as the urethane you are using, I've used it frequently and have had very good results. The Minwax "Helmsman" Spar Urethane is a good product. Don't let anyone tell you different. It simply depends on the type of finish you want.... a urethane or hand-rubbed oil. They are totally different animals. And as far as "shaken vs. stirred", I'm just not sure how you're gonna "stir" that stuff....huh??

halfbakedi420

i agree on the can, but i use the gallon jug..so i wouldn't know... a lot of lil coats is better than a thick coat when spraying anything

MountainDevil54

wet sand with 2000grit sand paper

Pawildman

Wow.....Really??? 2000 grit sandpaper?? Where do you get that???