Glass Bedding
 

I recently purchased a Boyds laminate for my Ruger 270wsm and found that the action is shifting in the stock even though the action screws are tight. For those of you that have bedded a stock how much material do you guys normally remove from around the recoil lug and the tang. I figure to bed the tang and the first two inches of the barrel and then open up the barrel channel to free float the rest. Any input is appreciated.

RE: Glass Bedding
 

Just a little bit, as too much will just add work....

'Tain't set in stone and a skim bed is better than nothin'......and is often done with good results.

Bed the chamber area of the barrelat the same time, if it don't help, it's easily removed.....

Give the bottom, sides and front of the lug someclearance with a thickness of masking tape.

Rugers can be a sumbich to get right, use 2 coats of One Shot Case Lube as a release agent.......

RE: Glass Bedding
 

Should add that Marine-Tex is the magic word............

RE: Glass Bedding
 

Ruger is not an easy action to bed . I would bed the shank part of the barrel and the tang and not remove any material from the stock. Just a light skm coat . Use stockmakers screws and tighten them litely and use some surgical tubing around the action. Put some tape on the front of the lug.Last few bedding jobs I have done involved using score hi epoxy. This is really super stuff and it is not a critical mix.You can get it from Midway or directly from them. If you want more hassle use the various Brownell acraglas products.

RE: Glass Bedding
 

I already ordered the Miles Gilbert Bedrock kit. I liked the option of the micro-beads to adjust the consistancy of the epoxy. This really through me off, when I got the stock I had to open up the magazine well for it to fit but made no other mods to the bedding areas. When I got out to the range after one box of my factory dup handloads I was all over the target, looked down and realized the action shifted. I was not a happy camper.

RE: Glass Bedding
 

Ever think about putting in Pillars?? The adjustable one's that Brownell's sells are the berries. And they are fairly easy to install. A lot easier(IMO), easily as effective(sometimes more), and a whole lot less messier?? Tom.

RE: Glass Bedding
 

You do the same with the Score-HI add the microbeads to thicken. I actually had a Sako that came from the factory that way(greywolf) and it was loose as a goose in the stock. It darn met it 's accuracy warranty though(scratching head). Good thing about bedding is you can always redo it if not satisfactory;) That's one thing I wish Ruger would change ( the angled bedding screw)

RE: Glass Bedding
 

Of all the various bedding products I 've tried the be honest Devcon Stainless Steel was the easiest to work with.

RE: Glass Bedding
 

Thanks for your input guys, I broke out the dremel and removed 1/16" from around the tang screw hole and the chamber area of the barrel. Removed the barreled action and did the minor touch ups on the areas that had some air pockets. What a difference. I think I'll be bedding the rest of my rifles now. I can't wait to see how this gun will shoot now that the trigger and bedding is done.

RE: Glass Bedding
 

Bedding IS part of the recipe......

RE: Glass Bedding
 

Speaking of bedding, I have a Mosin-Nagant M91-30 that I acquired last summer. As it was, it would not hit the side of a barn with any ammo I tried in it, and it seemed to me that the inletting around the receiver ringand tang was somewhat on the "generous" side. So I took the stock off, drilled two 3/8" holes into the flat that supports the bottom of the receiver ring and filled them with Acraglas Gel.I then bedded the receiver ring, the rear two inches of the barrel, and the tang, with the Acraglas Gel. The rest of the barrel was left free-floating, and the handguard was relieved so it does not touch the barrel anywhere. When I put it back together I put a thick shim under the barrel to apply upward pressure at the last 1" of the tip of the stock.

Two weeks ago, I took it out to test it using a load consisting of .313", 174-grain FN Mauser bullets pulled from some 1974 FN 7.675X53mm ammo, and using the powder charges out of that stuff. (The Graf's 7.62X54R brass holds more powder than the FN 7.65X53mm cases do. So the powder swap is safe.) The first four shots almost went through the same hole, and the rest came very close to that group. When I tried some of the ammo I had loaded earlier with .311" bullets, they shot much better, but were't as good as the rounds with the .313" bullets.

Next time, I'm going to try some of the .312" Hornady 174-grain bullets. This rifle has .300" lands and .314" grooves! (Guess the Russkies made them this way so they wouldn't "shoot out" the barrels too soon!!) But, this makes finding a correct size bullet a problem. Maybe I should switch to cast bullets?? Wonder what bullet diameter the Russians used.........