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distructive recoil
I just bought a new scope for my 30-06, a Barsika. The guy told me it is made for high powered rifles and should hold up. I was talking to a friend who has had a problem with the recoil destoying the cross hairs. Is there a certain kind of scope I should buy to prevent this?
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RE: distructive recoil
Yes, one that cost more than 50 bucks;). What model did you get? Some of barska's scopes are not too bad, others are crap and you will know it by the price point. No different than a cheap tasco, simmons or BSA, just a different name on the side of it pretty much.
Some of the better ones are popular with rimfires, but I personally wouldn't put one on a centerfire. If you want a scope that won't break the reticle get one that is etched in the glass. I believe Leupold's are this way. I would assume some other high dollar scopes are the same. Paul |
RE: distructive recoil
I'm not very familiar with the brand you mention. Any "riflescope" should hold up just fine if its worth a lick. That said...you should put your money in your optics. If you get a bargin bin scope...you'll get bargin bin accuracy. Same goes for your mounts.
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RE: distructive recoil
Just one that's not an el-cheapo, and has good mounts.
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RE: distructive recoil
I don't personally know of any quality scope that comes with it's own mounts. How in the world could the manufacturer ever know what you intended to mount it on? Remingtons are different from Winchesters who are different from Rugers, who are different from Savage, etc., etc.
You buy the scope, and then you buy the mounts to fit the gun. The only variatin to the rule that I can think of is if you bought a package deal, gun, scope and mounts pre-assembled. If you want a decent scope, I advise you to stick to the names that are and have been famous for years for their performance and reliability. Then get a GOOD set of name-brand mounts that aren't crap and have the both professionally installed. Please don't buy junk. It is only a waste of your money, as you will be disappointed, and end up buying good stuff later on, anyhow after you've already wasted your money. |
RE: distructive recoil
Is a $80.0 scope a cheapo? I know it is alot cheaper than alot of them that I was looking at.
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RE: distructive recoil
ORIGINAL: Roadkillwarrior Is a $80.0 scope a cheapo? I know it is alot cheaper than alot of them that I was looking at. If you can, I would take that scope back and upgrade to a Swift, Nikon, Leupold..... |
RE: distructive recoil
ORIGINAL: Paul L Mohr Yes, one that cost more than 50 bucks;). What model did you get? Some of barska's scopes are not too bad, others are crap and you will know it by the price point. No different than a cheap tasco, simmons or BSA, just a different name on the side of it pretty much. Some of the better ones are popular with rimfires, but I personally wouldn't put one on a centerfire. If you want a scope that won't break the reticle get one that is etched in the glass. I believe Leupold's are this way. I would assume some other high dollar scopes are the same. Paul barska is actually the company thats makes the lenses for tasco, simmons and weaver. |
RE: distructive recoil
ORIGINAL: Rammer ORIGINAL: Roadkillwarrior Is a $80.0 scope a cheapo? I know it is alot cheaper than alot of them that I was looking at. If you can, I would take that scope back and upgrade to a Swift, Nikon, Leupold..... |
RE: distructive recoil
It seems that a arbitrary line in scopes exists where anything under about 200.00 is considered a elcheapO scope. There might be a little latitude in this, but that is a close estimate.
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RE: distructive recoil
OK, I have been right where you are in this situation. These guys here are regretfully right about scopes. I bought a simmons scope 4 years ago, mounted it on a 270 semi auto and it wouldnt hold center and the eye relief was soo bad I kept getting bopped in the eye. Really messed my shooting abilities up. So, I ended up getting a nikon pro-staff (about 140 bucks) and have never looked back since. Spend 50 to 70 bucks more. Wait and save the money up if you dont have it right now. The best optics arent an option for us younger poorer guys, but acceptable optics are. Lots of options for 100 to 150 bucks.
Good options are some of the bushnels (100 bucks or more) Pentax game seeker (I have one, I got it for 100 bucks, made by burris) Nikon pro-staffs are going for 130-140 nearly everywhere Low end leupold's are just under or around 200 burris are closer to 200 but excellent quality for the money Good luck bro! EJ |
RE: distructive recoil
It would make sense to me to get a scope good enough that you will not ever feel the need to move up from. If you get a bargain scope,it will let you down,usually at the worst possible moment. Get quality to begin with and you'll never have to remove it again because of it going "bad".
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RE: distructive recoil
IMHO, there are too many really good quality scopes on closeout to settle for a < $100 bargain basement model. Weaver Grand Slam, Bushnell 3200, Browning, Nikon Monarchs (or heck, even the Buckmaster & Prostaffs!), can all be had for $140 to $200 if you look around.
There's an astounding quality difference when you jump up to these models. However, when you go up in price from that level, the quality differences come much more slowly. Look around & check out some different models. You might be surprised how much better of a scope can be had for just a few extra sheckels. FC |
RE: distructive recoil
I once put a Bushnell 3200 on a .300 Weatherby and the crosshairs broke after 20-30 shots!!!! I took it back to the gun shop and went back to Leupold. Live and learn...[:o]
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RE: distructive recoil
If $200 bucks is the line for a cheap scope then buy a Nikon. You won't be disappointed. Monarchs 3x9x40 are less than $200 and worth every penny. I've had one on my 7 mm mag for years and hundreds of rounds with no problems at all. The variable adjustment also works just fine in real cold weather. This is a problem that I have had with some scopes.
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RE: distructive recoil
I went out to sight in my gun today, my eighty-dollar cheapo, and that is what it seems to be turning out to be. Well, I took my first shot and it hit about five feet to the right. So I adjusted it to the left a lot of clicks and hit about three feet to the right. Seem to be looking pretty good, so I adjusted it alot more clicks untill I had it as far as it would adjust to the right. Took the shot and it is about a foot and a half to the right and I cant adjust it to the left any further. I never would of guessed this would be my problem, never had this problem with even cheaper scopes. Can you explain what I can do, if anything, to fix this. Im going to probably exchange it for a more high quality and high dollar scope. I bought a bushnell banner for my 243 last year and love it and it was about $175.0
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RE: distructive recoil
ORIGINAL: Roadkillwarrior I just bought a new scope for my 30-06, a Barsika. The guy told me it is made for high powered rifles and should hold up. I was talking to a friend who has had a problem with the recoil destoying the cross hairs. Is there a certain kind of scope I should buy to prevent this? In addition, if you are not looking to go broke for a good scope, take a look at some of the older ones on e-bay! They often have older, US-made steel-tube Weaker K-models,Lyman All-Americans and older Redfields, listed for very little. And these old scopes, if in good condition, are still very good choices! |
RE: distructive recoil
ORIGINAL: HighDesertWolf barska is actually the company thats makes the lenses for tasco, simmons and weaver. When it comes to withstanding recoil force, it is the MECHANICAL part of the scope ass3mbly that is significant, not the lenses. I have seen scopes that gave very good definition and view quality that could not take more than a couple of rounds of 6.5X55mm recoil! |
RE: distructive recoil
ORIGINAL: Roadkillwarrior I went out to sight in my gun today, my eighty-dollar cheapo, and that is what it seems to be turning out to be. Well, I took my first shot and it hit about five feet to the right. So I adjusted it to the left a lot of clicks and hit about three feet to the right. Seem to be looking pretty good, so I adjusted it alot more clicks untill I had it as far as it would adjust to the right. Took the shot and it is about a foot and a half to the right and I cant adjust it to the left any further. I never would of guessed this would be my problem, never had this problem with even cheaper scopes. Can you explain what I can do, if anything, to fix this. Im going to probably exchange it for a more high quality and high dollar scope. I bought a bushnell banner for my 243 last year and love it and it was about $175.0 You need to center the scope reticle using the internal adjustments, then the scope should be adjusted in the MOUNT so that the scope is pointed as close to the spot the bore is pointing at ("boresighted")as is possible BEFORE you even touchinternal scope adjustment knobs. The internal adjustments are basically for making the last, fine adjustments when you are firing for zeroing. If your scope is currently mounted in a mount which permits windage adjustments, such as the Redfield Jr.(Leupold) type that has windage screws in the rear mount, this is easy to do. Otherwise, you may need to use shims in the mount to get the scope pointed correctly. If you can't do this yourself, consult a good gunsmith, or at least a friend who knows how to put a scope on a rifle! It is no big deal, but one does need to have some idea of what the problem is, and how to proceed! |
RE: distructive recoil
My bushnell 3200 has handled my .300 win mag without any issues. My Nikon Prostaff has handled my savage ML, even when loaded to recoil similar to the .300 win mag. I would recommend both scopes. I have also heard many good things about the Burris Fullfield II's as well.
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RE: distructive recoil
I'm with Eldeguello on this one. He beat me to it. You should not have been that far off to begin with. You should have had it boresighted before you started sighting it in. I always try to get mounts that can be adjusted for windage. This way I can bore sight my scopes and have them pretty darn close before I start firing live rounds through them.
I had a buddy do this with his 870 slug gun. He threw a scope on it and went out to sight it in. He had to adjust it so much he actually ruined the scope (it can be done). He came over to my house to see what I thought and I told him the scope was toast pretty much, but he might be able to send it in and get it fixed. I loaned him a scope and bore sighted for him real quick in my back yard. No fancy tools or anything, just looked down the barrel at a target with it in a rest and made a few adjustment. I had to shim the mounts and file some metal off the sides. I don't think the cantilever mount was very true to the barrel to be honest. We took it out a week later and it was only off 2 inches at 50 yards on the first shot. He was rather impressed. Most gun shops will do this service fairly cheap. Even if it costs more than you think it should when you factor in the price of a scope and ammo for a centerfire it is usually worth it in the long run. Paul |
RE: distructive recoil
I took the scope mounts and scope mounting bracket off and put it all back on very carefully to make sure that I dont put it on off set or anything. Took it out and after a couple shots I got it sighted in, I guess there must have been somthing not lined up or somthing the first time I did it because its shooting fine and holding up so far. I gave you the wrong name of the scope, it's a barska. I think Im going to leave it on, I just hope nothing happens down the road.
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RE: distructive recoil
I've seen crosshairs fall out of a new Tasco scope within the first 10 shots on a .270 Win and the same on a Simmons mounted on a 30-06. None for me thanx! Harold
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