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-   -   tru oil (https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/guns/142660-tru-oil.html)

mauser06 05-16-2006 10:51 AM

tru oil
 
anyone use truoil to refinish stocks?? i been using it on my TC hawken stock...it turned out nice...but id like it to be darker...its like a redish brown now.....i think it would look nice darker.....anyway to do that??? also....when i feel its done again this time(this is the 3rd time oiling it lol..) do i leave it dry or do i sand it with steel wool like i do between coats when i decide im done oiling it? it has ALOT of coats of oil on it over the 3yrs i been at it...i refinished the stock once and used truoil to refinish it....a year ago i refinished it just to take the minor scratches etc out...thats why im doing it now.....but would like it to be a shade or 2 darker if possible.....if not its still purdy lookin...and also dont know if i should leave it dry and no sanding after the last coat or still sand it......any help tips info etc post it.......thanx guys

ShatoDavis 05-16-2006 11:52 AM

RE: tru oil
 
Unless you are better than me you will have to sand it to remove the runs and drips. It can easily be buffed to a shine afterwards though. To make it darker you needed to stain the wood in some manner before adding all the coats of oil.

mauser06 05-16-2006 12:07 PM

RE: tru oil
 
thanx for the info shatodavis....i noticed after sanding with steel wool it dulls it...but the kit i have came with wax...i just found some reading saying to use it like you would wax a car and it will shine it back up! after this coat drys it should be good to go...theres probably 20 coats in it all together lol...i also noticed how and where to spend time steel wooling it....it should look good when its done.....im going to poilish all the brass now....these rainy days kill me...im so bored! lol....meanwhile i should clean my room and put stuff away but nahhhh making the Hawken perdy sounds like a good rainy day project to me! lol...ill have to get some pics up here on the Black Powder forum when its done

RedAllison 05-16-2006 04:01 PM

RE: tru oil
 
mause TruOil is basically polyurethane. It's not an "oil" like linseed. It doesn't really penetrate the wood much, it's more a sealant/protectant. You'll have to completely strip the finish before staining it. If you want a darker finish then get some of Birchwood Casey's Walnut Stain. Put as many coats of stain on it as you prefer. Just allow the stain to dry overnight between layers tho. After 3-4 coats the wood will appear nearly black (unless you either dilute the stain first or your stock is nearly blonde) and matte finished. Fine steel wool will knock that matte coat off (sand with the grain) and will actually look VERY good by itself. But you'll have to put a few layers of TruOil over it just to protect the wood and finish. (Let the stock dry at least 24 hours after the last coat of stain before you begin to Tru Oil it.) BTW, the best way to stain the wood is to lightly wetsand (w/400) the stock first, let dry overnight, wipe the wood smooth and then stain it. The stain will soak right in a freshly sanded/open stock and will look more uniform.

BC also makes some "Stock Sheen & Conditioner" that is milky and has some abrasives in it. It is made for knocking the shine off of TruOil if you want a oil finish look too the stock, yet you'll still have the protection/seal of the Tru Oil. You'll want to wait 48-72 hours after your last coat of Tru Oil before using the Sheen/Conditioner.

Good luck,
RA

mauser06 05-16-2006 10:25 PM

RE: tru oil
 
thanx RA...i sanded the stock with tru oil after 3-4hrs and then applied the stock sheen and conditoner...2 coats of it...it looks alright...but id like a little more shine...and at certain angles it almost seems to be whiteish...like a white layer on it?? i took off all the sheen and conditioner i think?? and steel wooled it GOOD.....took me forever...felt silky smooth and no visible excess tru oil on it...what would make it shine? i read stock wax??? or something else??? i dont want it MAJORLY shiny...just like a satin finish...but dont want a thick visible plasticy looking clear top coat...thats the reason i EVER did this in the first place lol....there was a measureable top coat of clear on it....must been factory sprayed...nasty looking....looks much better now...but a little shine and no white look would be great.....any tips?? thanx

48thguns 05-17-2006 06:57 PM

RE: tru oil
 
Get some Brownells stock rubbing compound.....go easy!!!! A little at a time til you get what you want. Then use a good clearcoat carwax and buff.......you will be happy. Regards, Rick.

RedAllison 05-17-2006 07:11 PM

RE: tru oil
 
mauser it sounds like you put the Sheen/Conditioner over the Tru Oil before it was fully dried. You are supposed wait 48-72 hours AFTER your last coat of TruOil before putting any Sheen on it. Since the TruOil was still wet the Sheen worked into it and thus the "milky" appearance. Hate to break it too ya, but sounds like you gotta get out the stripper (and I aint talkin about the 6' tall blonde type) and start over. But the good news is, once you strip ALL the old TruOil, Sheen and anything else from the wood you can let the stock dry out (I'd give it a week) and then stain it too your choice.

You can't hurry wood and finishes, think about it this way. What you are doing with your stock right now (for the next month) isn't squat too the service and joy a properly finished stock will bring you for the rest of your life.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh patience grasshoppah!!! ;)
RA

mauser06 05-17-2006 08:05 PM

RE: tru oil
 
ahhhh RA.....how hard will it be to get the tru oil off/out of the stock?? will it strip off or is it soaked in there and will be a major sanding job?? i knew i shoulda waited! the bottles dont say anything about it though!! ahhhhhh crap....maybe ill try the wax....if it dont help then i can redo it....im pretty impressed with my stock work....i should took pics before and after 3yrs ago....woodworking is a love of mine....cant wait till i am out of college and can build me a mini self woodshop....ill try the wax....doesnt sound like it will help though.....so im looking at refinishing....i want a pretty dark satin look...but not a heavy plasticy looking clear top coat...the wood is black walnut im almost sure..though i could be wrong lol....any suggestions on what to do with it if i have to redo it?? i got all summer...a coat a night and i can have 20 new coats in it in now time lol......i want it to look really good and have a nice color and look to it....but something that will take a little beating from hunting use...

RedAllison 05-17-2006 10:04 PM

RE: tru oil
 
Mauser the best thing to do IMHO is wetsand (with 400 grit at the heaviest, 600 would be better but will take twice as long)the coats you put on the stock. Sand it down until you get too raw wood (don't worry with wet 400 or 600 you wont hurt the wood just becareful around the checkering).

Lemme give ya a lil secret here that I learned when I was 8 yrs old taping cars and helpin my dad in his bodyshop. Whether you are paintin a car or working with wood THE most important aspect and your greatest emphasis begins long before you EVER slap on the paint/stain/finish, PREPERATION is the key. What a car or piece of wood looks like when finished is STRICTLY dependant upon how it was prepped to begin with. So take your time here and don't get in a hurry.

Wetsanding the stock and getting rid of the botched finish can be done in probably about a good hour of work. But then let the stock dry 24 hours before you touch it with anything else. Once dry look it over and if all is well then you are ready to stain it. If not then again break out the wetsanding and touch up/even up any areas that need work. Birchwood Casey makes a great Walnut Stain that with only 3-5 coats should make that dark finish you really want, plus it will really bring out the grain in the stock. But like I said, let the stain dry overnight between coats and then once dry hit it lightly with fine steel wool to knock off that "black chalk" residue left by the stain.

Once that is all done, you are ready to begin puttin coats of Tru Oil back on. Let the first/initial coat of Tru Oil dry overnight. Afterwards you can put a coat of Tru Oil on about every 6 hours. Just dipone finger in the bottle and smooth it over the stock with that one finger. Using your whole hand or several fingers will lead to un-eveness, runs and streaks. Again, with ALL type coats of anything, I recommend going with the grain especially so with the Tru Oil.

For better adhesion and uniformity (as well as allowing you to touch up and get rid of any types of runs or errors) go over each dry coat of TruOil with light steel wool. By doing that you'll also be able to determine how well the layers are working and building up. When you dull each coat of TruOil you'll see shiny spots still reamining down in the poors of the wood (and that's fine). Once you nolonger see those shiny poors after several coats, then you know you probably have enough coats on it.

Once that is done, then just set the stock aside and let it dry for at least 3 days. THEN you can add the Sheen/Conditioner too the stock. Basically it's a light wetsanding compound that knocks the sheen off the TruOil finish, but I think it also has some built in sealants so you dont compromise the seal of the TruOil. You might have to put the Sheen on the stock a few times to get the desired finish (you just put some on a cloth and polish it into the stock until dry, which usually only take half a minute or so).

THEN YOU IS READY!!! ;)
RA

thndrchiken 05-17-2006 10:25 PM

RE: tru oil
 
I've learned from experience to use chemical strippers and keep the sandpaper away from the stock as much as possible. Any of your commercially available spray or brush on strippers will work well enough, may take an extra application or two. Ialways felt the end result is most affected by preparation. Like has been said strip the finish and allow to dry for at least 24 hrs, preferably 48-72. Stain the stock and allow to sit another 24-48 hrs then you can start applying the finish allowing 24 hrs between layers. Using the Truoil and wetsanding between coats should take probably 6-8 layers for a nice high gloss finish, the key is to allow each coat to cure first though. Personally I use a mixture of linseed and tung oil mixed in with a teaspoon of Japan Drier. Nothing like a nice hand rubbed oil finish to give a stock character.


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