Stock Re-Finish Kits???
 

Anyone refinish there stocks with one of those kits? How well do they turn out? Do they come with solvent to strip off the lacquer on a factory stock? Any advise?

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RE: Stock Re-Finish Kits???
 

DG:Thanks for the info!!! When you finish it do you use a spray finish or a brush on? If brushing is it real easy to get runs? Thanks, Again.....Also would about any water soluble paint stripper work ok????

RE: Stock Re-Finish Kits???
 

DG: Hey also, what would you use to fill a couple small "dents" in the wood/stock? I bought a Browning .22 T-Bolt from my boss and one side of stock is nice, the other a little battle scared from him tripping and falling on some gravel! Most of the "wounds" appear to be only in the finish, but a couple cut into the wood, nothing major though! And the finish you mentioned, how many coats do you apply to get a nice finish. Thanks for the help!

RE: Stock Re-Finish Kits???
 

Birchwood Casey's Tru-oil leaves a really nice finish. You need to apply about 5 or 6 very light coats and sand with #0000 steel wool in between coats with 24 hrs drying time between coats.

After you remove the original finish, some dents, as long as the grain at the edges of the wood isn't cut, can be steamed out. Put a damp cloth over the dent and heat it with a hot iron being careful not to burn the wood. Tung oil works well too, but as always put on several thin coats.

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RE: Stock Re-Finish Kits???
 

I prefer a hand rubbed finish. I use tung oil and linseed oil, mixed with japan drier. 1/2 tsp of each oil and 1 tsp of the japan drier, this mixes just enough to do the entire stock and have a little left over for each coat. How many coats you put on is up to you. I usually apply anywhere from 7 to 10 coats preceded by a light scuff with 0000 steel wool. There are any number of solvents you can use to remove the old finish, if you don't know how to recut the checkering leave it alone after you remove the finish and use a toothbrush dipped in the oil mixture and work in well during each coat of oil.

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RE: Stock Re-Finish Kits???
 

I never had any problems with steel wool. Small bits might break off but I simply wipe them off with a lint free cloth.

I also like Boiled linseed oil finishes, they look alot nicer than varnishes. The only problem I see with them, is that they take alot of time and patience to get a good finish and isn't very waterproof. I use final coat of neutral shoe polish to help seal the wood with the linseed oil.

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RE: Stock Re-Finish Kits???
 

Ok...So I rub on my multiple layers of oil with say the old t-shirt method, and steer clear of the checkering totally for the time being? Then when all layers are done, take a q-tip and hit the checkering once??? Also, I DO have a couple spots near the top of the stock/forearm area where when the previous owner crashed and burned in the gravel and the wood is actually cut into/gashed. Not much! But the surface of the wood is cut/slightley notched. Would I prior to finishing fill with a wood putty, sand,smooth off the best I can? Like I said they arnt real deep or big, but enough of a cut in the wood that I do need something. Thanks..

RE: Stock Re-Finish Kits???
 

I should add that this gun/stock I want to refinish has a high gloss finish right now. Will the above finish'es mentioned give me that?