HuntingNet.com Forums - Trigger adjustment

First things first - -welcome to the forum!

Second thing - - IF YOU ARE THE LEAST BIT UNSURE OF YOURSELF AND YOUR MECHANICAL ABILITIES, IF YOU LACK A THOROUGH UNDERSTANDING OF THE TRIGGER MECHANISM, DO NOT TOUCH IT. HAVE A QUALIFIED GUNSMITH DO THE WORK FOR YOU. TRIGGER ADJUSTMENTS PERFORMED BY INEXPERIENCED KITCHEN-TABLE GUNSMITHS CAN RESULT IN INJURY AND FATALITY. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. (There, now that's out of the way.)

Now, here's how I adjusted mine. I removed the barrelled action from the stock. The trigger adjustment on a Model 70 was quite easy for me, since it can be done by loosening two nuts on a jackscrew with a spring. I simply moved the nut and locknut back to lighten the compression on the spring until it was at about 3 pounds or so as measured by a trigger pull guage. The nut closest to the spring sets the pull at the poundage where you want, the nut behind it locks it in place. Once it measured a consistent 3 pound or so pull I applied Loctite to the locking nut.

Lightening the trigger pull (which the factory sent out at a gawdawful 8 pound pull!) and floating the barrel made my push feed .243 Featherweight into a very accurate little rifle. With the right load I am able to keep my groups right around 1 MOA when shooting from a rest. Prior to these two modifications it was about a 2 to 2.5 MOA rifle.

Again, BE CAREFUL with trigger adjustments that you don't go too light. The Model 70 trigger is pretty forgiving but there is no way that I personally would touch a Remington 700 trigger with my skill level. The last thing on earth any of us need is an accidental discharge killing or injuring someone.A good gunsmith can safely adjust your trigger for a much smaller fee than an initial consultation with an attorney.