DaveC

I'm looking for steel rings & mounts for my Savage Striker .308. If I go Leupold they only offer a 1-piece base for my gun.
I'd rather have 2 piece bases with 4 screws holding it down, are the 2 screws holding down a 1-piece base adequate?

I had a bad go of it at the range this week. The factory aluminum base on the Striker was moving (back & forth very slightly, but moving nonetheless) after about 10 shots. The screws were still very tight and hard to get out (I red bottle lock tighten them in). There was just slack in the base itself.
The Weaver quad lock rings appeared to have allowed the scope to move also. I placed a small (.005 lead) pencil line on the underside of the scope tube as close to the rings as possible on each side, front and back. After shooting the 10 rounds the scope looks to have ever so slightly moved forward.
Is forwardthe direction a pistol scope normally slips?

I saw a link to website a while back with a guy who's a good gun/scope guru to order from. Anybody have that site?

My main question- one piece Leupold bases OK for a hard-hitting pistol?
If not, who sells two piece steel bases for a Striker?


Thank for the help.

Roskoe

This is a common problem when rifle calibers are chambered for long range pistols. I would go with the Leupold one piece mount.Have a gunsmith enlarge the existing holes to 8 X 40 and put in an additional screw. Bead blast both surfaces and glue on the receiverwith JB Weld - use Loctite 262 on the screws. The rosin sold in Brownell's will keep the scope from slipping a lot better thanthat tape they give you with the rings. Apply it with a Q-tip. The scope wants to go forward due to inertia - gun comes back violently and the scope wants stay at rest . . . Good luck. Roskoe

DaveC

Thanks for the advice Roskoe, sure sounds like you know your stuff!

I ordered a Leupold 1 piece base & set rings in silver from Cheaperthandirt.com. I also picked up a Bandolier while I was at it.
I hope they aren't too slow with their shipping.

I'll keep in mind your recommendations and you may be getting a big ole- "That Roskoe was right" a few weeks from now, but for now I'm going to try just doing the jb weld, lock tight & brownell's rosin (?) and hope for the best. Season is just too close to be leaving the gun at a gun smiths shop, plus I've got way too many chores to do while prepairing for both bow & gun season (with a sprained ankle).

I've got both of my bows and a .270 dialed in, so at least that part is taken care of.

BTW, The gun took waaay to long to get here afterI ordered it (2 month wait), that's why I'm just now learning the hard way with it.


On the bead blasting, I can beed blast the base at work, will the guns reciever really need it for the JB weld to stick (can't bring a gunt to work).
Could you elaborate on the brownell's resin ?

Thanks for the advice! Davec

Ruger-Redhawk

Dave C. You mentioned you used Red LocTite (262). I wish you luck getting those screws back out.You should have used LocTite Blue 242.I would suggest before trying to remove those screws with the Red. Apply some heat to it.That's some powerful stuff.I use the Red and Blue daily.Never use the Red if you plan on taking it back apart.Especially on small screws and bolts.

The one piece base should work fine on your Striker.

Ruger Redhawk

DaveC

Ruger, it's an old bottle with the label missing. The bottle is red, but I'm thinking the glue inside was/is blue?? either way they are already removed.
The one on the end took a little persuading to remove. Good thing the old base was aluminum, because it turned into a wrench before all was said and done.

Locktite blue 242, got it (for next time).

Thanks for the help.

Ruger-Redhawk

Davec I'm glad it wasn't the LT Red.If it was LT and Blue it was 242 you used.If the LT you have isold ,I would suggest buying a fresh bottle or tube.Some years back Lock Tite added expiration dates. Not sure if it really matters but there had to be a reason why they added them..

Ruger Redhawk