Sensitivity ratings on rods.......
03-22-2008, 05:39 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 13,082
Sensitivity ratings on rods.......
Ok,I understand the IM rating on graphite rods. IM8 is more sensitive than IM6....yada yada.....but this modulous rating confuses me. So, for comparison, what would the equivalent modulous rating be for an IM8 rod? 70 million?
03-22-2008, 08:17 PM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Wilmington NC
Posts: 4,919
RE: Sensitivity ratings on rods.......
Not nesscessarily, I have seen 70 mil on IM6 rods as well. I dont completly understand modulus and I personally think it is just another way to confuse the heck out of a simple minded fisherman. Also note that my St. Croix is IM6 and is more sensitive than any other IM7 or 8 that I have owned.
03-22-2008, 09:26 PM
#3
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,212
RE: Sensitivity ratings on rods.......
http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/rodselection.html
http://www.furnacebayrods.com/tech.htm
"Modulus- A measure of applied load (stress) that it takes to deform a material in its finished process state."
"Modulus: As stated above, modulus refers to the stiffness of the graphite, not the amount of material used or the number of graphite fibers incorporated into the sheets. Buying a rod based solely on the modulus rating is a mistake because other factors must be considered. For instance, you don't want the stiffest rod for light line techniques or cranking. In addition, other qualities must be incorporated in the graphite itself and the rod must be designed correctly to ensure the best performance and durability of the rod. The other components that go into a quality rod can also add significantly to the cost."
"IM6, IM7, etc.: These are trade names for particular graphite produced by the Hexcel Corporation. These numbers are not industry standards or an indication of quality, especially since other companies use the designations to refer to graphite not made by Hexcel. At best, they allow you to compare the quality of the material used to build different rods by the same manufacturer. You can be confident that the IM7 rod would use better graphite than the IM6 rod if both are made by the same manufacturer. It's more difficult to say the same about rods from two different companies, since they could be made from material from completely different manufacturers."
http://www.furnacebayrods.com/tech.htm
"Modulus- A measure of applied load (stress) that it takes to deform a material in its finished process state."
"Modulus: As stated above, modulus refers to the stiffness of the graphite, not the amount of material used or the number of graphite fibers incorporated into the sheets. Buying a rod based solely on the modulus rating is a mistake because other factors must be considered. For instance, you don't want the stiffest rod for light line techniques or cranking. In addition, other qualities must be incorporated in the graphite itself and the rod must be designed correctly to ensure the best performance and durability of the rod. The other components that go into a quality rod can also add significantly to the cost."
"IM6, IM7, etc.: These are trade names for particular graphite produced by the Hexcel Corporation. These numbers are not industry standards or an indication of quality, especially since other companies use the designations to refer to graphite not made by Hexcel. At best, they allow you to compare the quality of the material used to build different rods by the same manufacturer. You can be confident that the IM7 rod would use better graphite than the IM6 rod if both are made by the same manufacturer. It's more difficult to say the same about rods from two different companies, since they could be made from material from completely different manufacturers."
03-23-2008, 08:03 AM
#5
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,212
RE: Sensitivity ratings on rods.......
So, there's really not much correlation w/ an IM rating and a modulus rating?
Do either relate to the sensitivity of a rod?
03-23-2008, 01:34 PM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Illinois
Posts: 3,076
RE: Sensitivity ratings on rods.......
i dont really get into the "marketing" of rods....if it has good eyes, balance and a specific action that i want i buy it. dont get caught up in marketing....ive never missed a fish because my rod wasnt "sensative" enuff..(i bass fish in shallow water 90% of the time)
these rods Below are plenty fine check them out before buying....because even tho both rods may say 6'6" Med action with im7 graphite the rod will vary in feel from brand to brand...the ratings only help distinguish the lineup within the brand and series(make sense)
my favorites right nowat a fair Value($250 rod give me a break[:'(][:'(])are the Fenwick "eagle gt"(im6)around50$ series and the HMX(im7)$80 series....i also like the Shimano Clarus 70$alot(they make Great medium action 7footers for good price)....
the best bang for your buck rods -40$are the "Berkely Lightning rod"
my favorites are a toss between shimano "Clarus" and the Fenwick "HMX"
nothing wrong with Berkely lightning rods tho...tough and ive never Broke one without Stepping on it or something equally stupid.... thay last forever altho ive heard some stuff recently about the fore grips comeing loose. on new ones...they still rock tho.(my first real bass poles were lightning rods from thelate 80s..back then they had over the counter warranty's, break one(foot, rock, car) and take it back to k-mart for a brand new one no questions) for the money i go with the Eagle GT by Fenwick (harder to find tho 15$ more)and the Shimano Convergence
also this is my opinion/experience but stay away from BassPro brand rods overpriced JUNK IMO.
Taken from another SIte:
Much of the confusion has to do with terminology. Let's define "power" and "action" first.
Power
The power of a rod is simply a rating, which describes the overall stiffness of the blank. Power categories include Ultra-Light (UL), Light(L), Medium-Light(ML), Medium(M), Medium-Heavy(MH) , Heavy(H) and Extra Heavy(XH)
Action
The action of a rod is a rating, which describes the amount of curvature that occurs in the blank due to loading with weight. The faster the action, the further towards the tip the rod bends. The slower the action, the further towards the middle of the rod and so on.
Action categories include:
Extra-Fast: Bend very near the top of the blank.
Fast: Bend in the upper 25-30%.
Moderate: Bend near the middle.
Slow: Parabolic curvature throughout the entire length of the rod.
Action is important because it determines, in part, how much control you have over the fish. The faster the action, the more pressure you can put on the fish (and vice-versa). Many crankbait anglers want more moderate action so that the fish cannot shake free as easily. Another important consideration of rod action is casting distance. The slower the action the better the rod will cast. Rods that have a slower action have a wider curve on their parabolic bend, and therefore can store more potential energy when casting. This is called "rod loading." In effect, the more the rod loads, the more of the rod you use to cast. Fast action rods bend closer to the tip, using less of the rod to cast.
Other rod characteristics to note are recovery, sensitivity and brittleness. Recovery is a measure of the time it takes the rod to recover after a cast. When you impart energy to a rod upon casting, it vibrates. You can see the tip shaking. That shaking bats the line as it leaves the top guide, causing friction. That friction reduces casting distance. Faster action rods tend to recover faster, but do not load up as well. More moderate action rods tend to recover poorly, but load up better. If you can find a moderate action rod with fast recovery, it will outcast everything else if the rest of the playing field is equal.
Sensitivity is obviously important. You want a rod to be able to transmit the feelings you experience when your lure moves underwater, where you can't see it. Higher modulus graphite is more sensitive, although it may be a case of diminishing returns as you get higher and higher up the modulus rating scale.
Brittleness is how easily the rod will break. Most high end rods are brittle, as brittleness and sensitivity tend to be indirectly proportional. That's where a lifetime warranty comes into play!
So, all things are not created equal and if you think a $50 rod is just as good as a $300 rod, you're wrong! Buy the best equipment you can afford and focus on quality, not quantity.
For an all around rod I recommend 6 1/2' or 7' Medium Power/ Fast Action. More than 90% of all the bass fishing you will ever do can be done with this rod. Rod power is more about the weight of the lures you use than the fish you might catch. A Medium Power rod will handle most of the lures you will fish and the fight will be much more fun.
Now for the details. I'll list the Power and Action and a specific rod:
If I were to fish one rod only: 7" M/F spinning. G.Loomis GLX PR844S
If I can fish two, my other rod would be: 7' H/F baitcasting. G.Loomis GLX MBR844C
For technique specific applications:
Light fishing: 6 1/2' ML/F spinning
Soft plastics: 7' M/F spinning
Crankbaits, jerkbaits and topwater: 7' M or MH/M baitcasting
Spinnerbaits and buzzbaits: 7' M or MH/F baitcasting
Jigs, C-rigs and heavy and/or deep running lures: 7' H/F baitcasting
And to break it down just a little further, I fish a Heavy Power/ Slow Action glass rod for big, treble hook lures.
he does averygood job describing the actions: i know this is different than Modulus...what i do is basically buy what feels good to me not what some Marketer says is better...
i disagree with this guy on the $350 rod thing sure its better than a $50 rod...but not $300 better. on top of that hes Bias torwards G-loom(rods) and Shimano(reels)...thats all he uses...not that thats bad both are some of the best. just that hes bias.
im gonna try to find something onmodulus...but like already said the High modulous rods are very brittle and have breakage problems, compared to low modulus....wich is somthing i dont want to deal with on the water(the trade off isnt worth it IMO) .
maybee im just old school
...i still use origional STREN 12,14,17 lb test for everything...i stick with what i knowworks.
the only newer inventions in fishing that have caught my attention is Berkely Power Worms/Craws and Owner or Gamagatsu hooks....i did buy a Revo Reel ...not really put it to the test yet tho...if it breaks in 2 years im not going Low profile ever again...
sorry for the long posti need to go fishing badly.
these rods Below are plenty fine check them out before buying....because even tho both rods may say 6'6" Med action with im7 graphite the rod will vary in feel from brand to brand...the ratings only help distinguish the lineup within the brand and series(make sense)
my favorites right nowat a fair Value($250 rod give me a break[:'(][:'(])are the Fenwick "eagle gt"(im6)around50$ series and the HMX(im7)$80 series....i also like the Shimano Clarus 70$alot(they make Great medium action 7footers for good price)....
the best bang for your buck rods -40$are the "Berkely Lightning rod"
my favorites are a toss between shimano "Clarus" and the Fenwick "HMX"
nothing wrong with Berkely lightning rods tho...tough and ive never Broke one without Stepping on it or something equally stupid.... thay last forever altho ive heard some stuff recently about the fore grips comeing loose. on new ones...they still rock tho.(my first real bass poles were lightning rods from thelate 80s..back then they had over the counter warranty's, break one(foot, rock, car) and take it back to k-mart for a brand new one no questions) for the money i go with the Eagle GT by Fenwick (harder to find tho 15$ more)and the Shimano Convergence
also this is my opinion/experience but stay away from BassPro brand rods overpriced JUNK IMO.
Taken from another SIte:
Much of the confusion has to do with terminology. Let's define "power" and "action" first.
Power
The power of a rod is simply a rating, which describes the overall stiffness of the blank. Power categories include Ultra-Light (UL), Light(L), Medium-Light(ML), Medium(M), Medium-Heavy(MH) , Heavy(H) and Extra Heavy(XH)
Action
The action of a rod is a rating, which describes the amount of curvature that occurs in the blank due to loading with weight. The faster the action, the further towards the tip the rod bends. The slower the action, the further towards the middle of the rod and so on.
Action categories include:
Extra-Fast: Bend very near the top of the blank.
Fast: Bend in the upper 25-30%.
Moderate: Bend near the middle.
Slow: Parabolic curvature throughout the entire length of the rod.
Action is important because it determines, in part, how much control you have over the fish. The faster the action, the more pressure you can put on the fish (and vice-versa). Many crankbait anglers want more moderate action so that the fish cannot shake free as easily. Another important consideration of rod action is casting distance. The slower the action the better the rod will cast. Rods that have a slower action have a wider curve on their parabolic bend, and therefore can store more potential energy when casting. This is called "rod loading." In effect, the more the rod loads, the more of the rod you use to cast. Fast action rods bend closer to the tip, using less of the rod to cast.
Other rod characteristics to note are recovery, sensitivity and brittleness. Recovery is a measure of the time it takes the rod to recover after a cast. When you impart energy to a rod upon casting, it vibrates. You can see the tip shaking. That shaking bats the line as it leaves the top guide, causing friction. That friction reduces casting distance. Faster action rods tend to recover faster, but do not load up as well. More moderate action rods tend to recover poorly, but load up better. If you can find a moderate action rod with fast recovery, it will outcast everything else if the rest of the playing field is equal.
Sensitivity is obviously important. You want a rod to be able to transmit the feelings you experience when your lure moves underwater, where you can't see it. Higher modulus graphite is more sensitive, although it may be a case of diminishing returns as you get higher and higher up the modulus rating scale.
Brittleness is how easily the rod will break. Most high end rods are brittle, as brittleness and sensitivity tend to be indirectly proportional. That's where a lifetime warranty comes into play!
So, all things are not created equal and if you think a $50 rod is just as good as a $300 rod, you're wrong! Buy the best equipment you can afford and focus on quality, not quantity.
For an all around rod I recommend 6 1/2' or 7' Medium Power/ Fast Action. More than 90% of all the bass fishing you will ever do can be done with this rod. Rod power is more about the weight of the lures you use than the fish you might catch. A Medium Power rod will handle most of the lures you will fish and the fight will be much more fun.
Now for the details. I'll list the Power and Action and a specific rod:
If I were to fish one rod only: 7" M/F spinning. G.Loomis GLX PR844S
If I can fish two, my other rod would be: 7' H/F baitcasting. G.Loomis GLX MBR844C
For technique specific applications:
Light fishing: 6 1/2' ML/F spinning
Soft plastics: 7' M/F spinning
Crankbaits, jerkbaits and topwater: 7' M or MH/M baitcasting
Spinnerbaits and buzzbaits: 7' M or MH/F baitcasting
Jigs, C-rigs and heavy and/or deep running lures: 7' H/F baitcasting
And to break it down just a little further, I fish a Heavy Power/ Slow Action glass rod for big, treble hook lures.
he does averygood job describing the actions: i know this is different than Modulus...what i do is basically buy what feels good to me not what some Marketer says is better...
i disagree with this guy on the $350 rod thing sure its better than a $50 rod...but not $300 better. on top of that hes Bias torwards G-loom(rods) and Shimano(reels)...thats all he uses...not that thats bad both are some of the best. just that hes bias.
im gonna try to find something onmodulus...but like already said the High modulous rods are very brittle and have breakage problems, compared to low modulus....wich is somthing i dont want to deal with on the water(the trade off isnt worth it IMO) .
maybee im just old school
...i still use origional STREN 12,14,17 lb test for everything...i stick with what i knowworks.the only newer inventions in fishing that have caught my attention is Berkely Power Worms/Craws and Owner or Gamagatsu hooks....i did buy a Revo Reel ...not really put it to the test yet tho...if it breaks in 2 years im not going Low profile ever again...
sorry for the long post
i need to go fishing badly.
03-23-2008, 05:42 PM
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Where the ducks don't come no more
Posts: 4,420
RE: Sensitivity ratings on rods.......
ORIGINAL: Alpha Capo
nothing wrong with Berkely lightning rods tho...tough and ive never Broke one without Stepping on it or something equally stupid.... thay last forever altho ive heard some stuff recently about the fore grips comeing loose. on new ones...they still rock tho.(my first real bass poles were lightning rods from the late 80s..back then they had over the counter warranty's, break one(foot, rock, car) and take it back to k-mart for a brand new one no questions)
nothing wrong with Berkely lightning rods tho...tough and ive never Broke one without Stepping on it or something equally stupid.... thay last forever altho ive heard some stuff recently about the fore grips comeing loose. on new ones...they still rock tho.(my first real bass poles were lightning rods from the late 80s..back then they had over the counter warranty's, break one(foot, rock, car) and take it back to k-mart for a brand new one no questions)
also this is my opinion/experience but stay away from BassPro brand rods overpriced JUNK IMO.
Its always true you get what you pay for though....
03-23-2008, 05:45 PM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 13,082
RE: Sensitivity ratings on rods.......
Unbelievable info, thanks so much guys. I just purchased a BPS Pro Qualifier, IM8 7 footer, fast action MH. Think I got just the one I need. Again, thanks guys. I really appreciate it.
03-23-2008, 10:10 PM
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NW Montana / SW Alberta Rockies
Posts: 3,258
RE: Sensitivity ratings on rods.......
I been looking at rods and was favoring the 6 ft mh ugly stick with a shimano 4000fh spinner. I have this as a set up on one outfit with 17# trilene flora-carbon and liked the way it cast and performed and in using a shorter stick it made casting much more accurate. I'll be heading to fla this june and fish thick stumps and branches at Farm 13 and Lake Kissimmee and I need a rod that can basically hoist a hawg outta of the stumps and donot cut him any slack and if any given he'll break ya off everytime. One rod is not good for all conditions and lures as crankbait/rattle trap in open water I would want too use a rod that was more foregiveing. So you got to be adaptable to what you'll mostly be fishing. Good luck.
Bobby
Bobby
