Ruger No. 1-A
 

Guys I'm really lookin into buying a rifle this summer while I'm making money. I live in a shotgun only state and I already have a 22-250 for coyotes. It's the classic, "because I can" scenario. I'm looking at 30-06 and will handload/do handload. I'm left handed. So RH bolts are out of the question because I also plan to put a low-power scope. Thought about LH savage...still may go that route. The No. 1 are classic though, and since the purchase won't exactly be a practice in practicality I figure I might as well get something that's functional and sexy:D

My questions are these. What is the typical accuracy with these rifles? Sounds like its hit or miss when you buy a ruger rifle. AND...how easy are the triggers to work on? I hear they are the weak part of the package.

Thanks guys

RE: Ruger No. 1-A
 

I got mine used on a trade and it's in .22-.250 caliber Ruger #1. The last time I took it out to the range I got a 3 shot group of 5/8" at 100 yards with factory Rem. ammo. It's still the best group I've ever shot! Plus they are a beautiful work of art for a rifle.

RE: Ruger No. 1-A
 

I am a left handed shooter, and I also like the #1. You should also take a look at the 1885 Hi-Wall in a Browning or Winchester. Most accuracy problems with the #1 are attributed to the forearm. There is a special hanger available for the #1 that alleviates the pressure problem. As with most other rifles, other triggers are available. And you are right, the trigger is their weak point. Tom.

RE: Ruger No. 1-A
 

I picked up a #1 in 45-70 about 18 months or so ago. The trigger is pretty doggone good for factory, so I left as-is. I am getting consisently under 2" groups at 100 with factory loads. I am sure one could do better with handloads, but I don't know what you are wanting in the accuracy department. It is fun to shoot (well, until I put in some Buffalo Bore loads, heh) and it is quite portable. Very short action length, reducing overall size.

RE: Ruger No. 1-A
 

Well in 30-06, the cartridge I'm looking at because it comes with rifle sights and the barrel band, I would expect 1" @100yards. I wouldn't rest until I got "under 1MOA" with handloads, benchrest, scope and all that jazz.

I am expecting to have to put some money/time into it to get that <1MOA. But if the thing throws 2.5" out of the box...I don't know that'll it'll be worth working on.

Is that even realistic? I know alot of guys are fine with 2.5" groups. That's 5" at 200yards...which equates to dead animal anything bigger than a coyote.

RE: Ruger No. 1-A
 

I think it is iffy to get the barrel band model under 1" with a Ruger barrel in 30-06. I would look for a gunsmith who is a sharp cookie with these and get his opinion first if that is what you are looking for. Maybe .308 chambering would help. It has a magic boiler room in the accuracy department.

RE: Ruger No. 1-A
 

I think Ruger No.1's are great and I also think they get a bad rap. No one thinks anything of buying a bolt action then floating the barrel and glass/pillar bedding the action before they are critical of it's accuracy. A No.1 is the same way; you just have to use different tricks.

I wouldn't worry for a second about all this work you're expecting to do. Make sure there's a small gap behind the quarter rib and go shooting. If it's not accurate enough, take the forend off to see if floating the barrel is a good option. Then try a little pressure point under the hangar. You still haven't spent a dime (except for cartridges) and if you're still not happy with the results, look into the accurizing kits.

Accuracy is always going to vary between rifles. The last No.1 I had printed 2.5" at 300yds out of the box...and it even had a barrel band and forend contact. [8D]

RE: Ruger No. 1-A
 

Thank You mistahmojoryan

Sounds like there are some new things to learn when you get away from bolt actions. "small gap behind the quarter rib"...are we talking about the scope mount? Free float the barrel then try a pressure point? I know the 700s do something similar. What do accurizing kits consist of...actions springs?

RE: Ruger No. 1-A
 

Yeah, it's a totally different approach from a bolt action. I used to have some great links but I deleted them. :( Just google it and you'll find some great tips to get started. (Just make sure you shoot it first to see if it needs anything done.)

<"small gap behind the quarter rib"...are we talking about the scope mount?">

There should be a tiny gap behind the quarter rib/scope mount. If you can fit a cigarette paper or two behind it you're good (if the quarter rib is touching the action it may cause stringing).

<"Free float the barrel then try a pressure point?">

The pressure point I'm referring to would be between the barrel and the tip of the hanger...not the forend. The hanger attaches the forend to the barrel and houses the main action spring:



I had a stock 7mm Rem Mag that was stringing shots...it was shooting decent groups but it was still stringing everything. All I did was stick a wood shim (.5" by .5") between the hanger and barrel and voila...sub moa.

There's a ton of info out there on No.1's and you'll definitely come across some negative info. There'd be a lot less negative info if owners took a few minutes to learn how to set up their rifle though. ;)

RE: Ruger No. 1-A
 

i've always had a gut feel that rugers problems lie with the barrels, rather than with particular models. both No1's and M77's produce outstanding shooters, but also some that just don't perform. i know of at least one No1 that left the factory with an out-of-round chamber, so QA is still not what it could be.

it's a pity, because i'd love to buy one in 7x57 to keep my martini cadet company in the single shot category.