arrow question
 

Ok the last month I think I have come a long way with my new crossbow but now I hit a new problem. My bow came with 4- 16” aluminum arrows , When I went to buy more arrows I tried 4 places and all they had was 20” arrows so I bought 4 of them to see how they shoot. I just got a hawke XB1 scope and mounted it yesterday and with the 16” arrows at 20 yards I was shooting 2” groups and with the 20” inch arrows 3 ½ to 4” groups and of course the 20” arrows shot about 3” lower . So its obvious that the 16” arrows are more accurate and faster but before I go buying a bunch of 16” arrows do they have enough knock down power to bring down a deer ? And are carbon arrows lighter than the aluminum arrows and which is best aluminum or carbon. Or in short what is the best hunting arrow to use. I am disabled and live on a small fixed income so I cant afford to pay $20.00 an arrow, so I need something affordable too.
im about done with dumb newbie questions " i promise " :)

You didn't mention what crossbow you are using. I suggest you call David at Wyvern Creations, 603-695-0575. It will be the best call you can ever make He will give you honest and straight answers to help you with your arrow issue. No pressure and if you want to buy some arrows from him he will treat you right!

Jaguar 175# Carbons are lighter than alum arrows. You'll have to know/watch going under min weight w/ your xbow. I.E. 16" carbons. For an Excal recurve, the min weight is 350 gr w/ point. Don't know anything about your bow........

Oh sorry i have a Jaguar 175 # recurve

First, arrow don't kill with knockdown, they kill by causing hemorrhage, death by blood loss. So, your broadhead is likely as important as your arrow, if not more so. Second, the 20" arrow will work. Yes, their trajectory will be steeper than a lighter 16" arrow, and they may stick out ahead of the bow, but they will work. Third, the length may not have anything with how they fly from your bow. Generally speaking, spine and FOC are more important than length. Arrow have to be stiff enough for your bow and 'front heavy' enough so the head steers the arrow and the vanes just stabilize it. Lastly, even 2" groups at 20 are more dispersion than I like; 3-4'' (from bench-rested bow) is unacceptable (for me). If you're not cocking with a rope cocker, by all means do so. That consistently centers the string and improves accuracy.

ok im using a rope cocker , should i put both handles in one hand and pull with both hands because i noticed my right arm is stronger so im not sure im getting an even pull. i know that getting the string even every pull is important

that shouldn't matter. We have a 150# crossbow and its deadly up to 30yds...it prob could shoot out to 50 but we only take 35yd shot at most and its a complete pass through with a broadside/double lung shot. if it hits a shoulder or double shoulder you may not get that but its possible. if its a spine shot its typically enough to break the spinal cord and drop a deer.

arrows are expensive...just make sure you use the right thickness of arrow for the 175# bow...if not it will give you inconsistencies..

I think a lot of new crossbow shooters underestimate the killing power of the crossbow. you should be good out to 40yds...anything more its a big drop...

thanks for the info everyone think i will call David at Wyvern Creations about the right arrow for my bow

David has a very good reputation & I believe he'll be able to make the shorter arrows for you if that is what you wish.

If he can't, or if you just wish to check prices, Jerry @ South Shore Archery is another very top shelf man to deal with.

I agree with Cossack, 2" groups @ 20 yds is not real good, and 4" is crazy at a range where it should be possible to shoot one hole groups, at least under 1".

DO you know how to figure your Forward of Center, or weight forward to get best accuracy? If not I'm sure both those gentlemen at the shops named above, or folks here can help you with that. Really if you don't know this, you can just tell the guys at those shops what broad head & it's weight you're using & they should be able to make up a set of arrows that can well improve the accuracy you are getting at the moment.

Mark your string (when it's down) where it's even with the sides of the rail using a marker you can readily see. Thus, when you cock the bow the marks should be the same distance from the latches on both side of them. If not, you'll know you're not cocking it evenly.
Some bows have mechanical cockers available for them that will correct the problem.