Slick Trick Problem
 

Ok I just got them. 100 grain 1 1/8 Magnum. I have another post about my rage opening when shoot threw the mesh in my blind so I thought I would try the slick tricks. when I went to sight in I started at 10 yds then 15,18 and still all good ( found that to be a surprise up to 18 yds the slick tricks match the rage 2 blades scope settings, but when I went to 25yds I dam near missed the target to the right. thought I might have moved a little (using a shooting stick) so I shoot the same bolt again and sure enough it off to the right.not as bad but still off.
so I take a shoot at 20 and it is working its way back top the left a little. the end result is I can shoot up to 18 yds and i am dead on 19 yds and it off to the right.
Horton Summitt 150
Horton Carbon strike mx with lumenok
and hand cocking the bow

Just to mention With the same set up but using the rage 2 blade I had it sighted dead on at 25.

Thanks

RE: Slick Trick Problem
 

mark your string with white on each side of your rail/deck. you are moving your string to one side or the other and the farther you shoot the worse it will be off. thats why i use a rope cocker. its not cause i can't pull my 150 lb vixen but i can't keep the string perfectly centered as i do with rope cocker.

RE: Slick Trick Problem
 

Smokepole< I hear what your are saying . would I also see the with my rage set up? I always question my pull when I have a shoot go off a little but with the way the Rage heads group at 25 and 30 I fell pretty good about it. the slick Trick heads are doing something funny in that next yds They inter the target at a differrent angle also. It looks like it is coming up from the ground when It should have a downward look.

RE: Slick Trick Problem
 

slicks have a balance washer and they take abit of playing with to get them spinning correctly. awshucks put several of them on me at 3-D shoot. i tuned them up by hand he ck'ed with a dial indicator. they are fine BH's just take some tuning. may have to move washer a couple times to have them spin right. if your off 1/16" while cocking it can be 6" or 8" off at 20 yds. if shots are 20 yds and less its dead deer. lots of BH's don't shoot the same area as others of same weight.

RE: Slick Trick Problem
 

What do you mean by (may have to move washer a couple times to have them spin right.)

RE: Slick Trick Problem
 

Loosen the broadhead up and turn the washer 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Re-tighten and spin test the broadhead to see if there is any wobble in the broadhead. If there is still a noticeable wobble turn the washer again. You will find a spot where the broadhead spins true and only then will it fly right.

I switched to NAP Spitfires for next season and every one of them spun true out of the package and all of the ones I weighed were exactly 125g. The weight is a pet peeve of mine. I figure that with the amount of money we spend on a broadhead it should weigh what it is supposed to weigh. I have seen them off as much as 5g. I know that the effect on flight is negligible, it just annoys me. I guess I am just a little AR.:D

Bob

RE: Slick Trick Problem
 

Are you shooting through mesh? If so could it be the angle at which you are shooting that has changed?

RE: Slick Trick Problem
 

Just occurred to me, that appears to be a unweighted arrow, relatively low FOC. They may be planing because they don't have enough weight in the tip (esp since the luminock adds weight to back). Arrows with low FOC (I prefer at least 15% in mine) can plane with a broadhead. The mechanicals would not necessarily do that since their profile is more like a field tip.

RE: Slick Trick Problem
 

I will have to check my foc with the slick trick on them. And try the turning the washer.

RE: Slick Trick Problem
 

I helped a guy set up a Horton a few years ago, package deal w/ their low profile bheads. we got good groups at 30 but when i tried Slicks the groups dropped 10" low right. Never did try the Horton bheads as he was disgusted and was going to off the bow. I called Horton to see what might be the problem as I was totally baffled and whoever I talked to told me to 'just use mechanicals'.

I think I answered your post on another site, but it's almost got to be wobble, FOC, centering string or a combo of those.

If you are using lighted nocks, most likely too low of FOC, brass inserts if possible would be cheapest test on that. Good luck! Be sure to let us know if you solve the problem.